tomsupon1

Hi again Bob. I have the outer column tube off now but in one of your previous posts you mentioned that this tube is a slip fit into the nut on the bottom. Now I see why it was not able to be rotated. It has been staked in four places inside the nut. Should I remove the stakes so the tube is free to move as you mentioned so that I can adjust the placement of the steering bracket to the dash bolts without messing with the adjustment for free play on the bearings below the nut? I have attached some pictures showing the column jacket and the nut.

Hey Bob. Thanks for your repost. It worked using a piece of 2x4 and a rubber dead blow hammer. The wheel is off, thanks. Now I need to work on getting the outer column off and to the powder coating shop. Again thanks and any words of wisdom for the column tube removal?

Hey Bob I used a deep well socket over the nut but still having problems finding a puller that will reach around the steering wheel and grasp the lip on the bottom. Do you have one and if so do you have a PN and where purchased? I tried using pieces of flat stock steel and bolts but it didn't work.

Thank you Bob for your reply. Am I correct to assume that once I have the cams off at the bottom of the steering column the tubes will pull out? Fred thanks for your insight as well. Were you able to locate any of the correct size plastic or fiber rods? And I hope Bob's comment helps you out as well.

Ok with the help of my son I have the nut removed but still unable to get the wheel off. Do I use a puller and if so are the throttle and spark tubes strong enough to use with the puller?

Hi all. I am trying to remove my steering wheel. I am down to the nut and have tried to remove it (I tried in both directions in case it is bake wards threads) with no luck. I was using the front wheel stops to hold it in place while trying to remove the nut. Is there anything I need to know before I use a cheater bar on the ratchet? Don't want to break anything. Also on the control levers I have three plugs (one found in the open area of the steering wheel). My parts manual states there should be 4 of these. They are not magnetic so are they made of brass? Do the springs go between the two plugs for each lever? Thanks for your insight in advance.

Hi all. To get the steering column jacket off I have to remove the steering wheel. I have all the levers removed but I noticed that my master parts manual calls for 4 friction plugs. Upon removal I only have three. I assume they are brass as they are not magnetic, so I will find some stock at the stairs and cut another. My book also says there are 2 friction springs, which I have. Can I assume the spring goes between the two friction plugs? also is there any trick to removing the steering wheel nut? I have tried to turn if off in both directions with the front wheels at the left and right stops with no luck. I wanted to ask before I use a cheater bar and possible break something. Any suggestions would be welcome.

Dwight that would be fine and thanks! Sergio I can't help as I have only 4 but let me look through some of my emails. I may have someone who may have them. I know he has the spoked wheels. Sergio look at a post called Misc Early Buick Parts, he may have them or try mdanzig@windstream.net. He has wheels not sure on the caps.

Hello Dwight. I could use patterns for the rear window area, left side and quarter window area. Also the rear and front roof support beams. The ones that the wood slats attach to and also join the frame. if you can help it would be much appreciated.

Great. Thanks very much for you answers. They will help me a lot.

Hi all and a happy new year to you. i have a couple of questions about working the steering column and have them listed below. 1. Is the steering column jacket (PN: 258996) removable? 2. There is a piece (pic1), cannot find a PN in my master parts book, looks as though it goes between the steering wheel base and the column jacket, but mine is not held in place and slides down the shaft to where the cowl bracket (No PN in master book spiciric to 1930 model). How do I put it in the correct position and keep it there? 3. The steering column jacket seems to be turned inward (towards the center of the car), if I line up the indent for the cowl bracket washer (pic 2 & 3). How can I turn the outer shaft to make the bracket perpependicular to the dash mounting provisions? I did loosen the large nut (pic 4) and that allows the outer shaft to be rotated but allows for to much slop in the steering when rotated to what I believe is the correct position for the bracket. 4. Does anyone have or would be willing to take a picture of the position of the two gears at the bottom of the steering shaft with the spark and throttle controls in the positions shown in pic 5? I did take pictures before removal, but when I position them this way they do not seem to work correctly. The old ones were really torn up and the shaft with the slots to position them correctly was removed without pictures. 5. Is there a book available that details the mechanical systems with tear down and rebuild instructions? Thanks for all your knowledge and assistance with my project. As all of you have been where I am or are currently in process with your restoration.

Hello all. Hope you had a wonderful Christmas. I am a little confused on the Bob Engle post from Aug 10th 2014 (with pictures). Bob states #8 is the hole where you need to drill out the pin. Am I correct in my understanding the the hole is the one below and to the left of the ball detention screw?

http://skagit.craigslist.org/cto/5914042193.html

1924 Buick. Comes with 2 engines and a lot of parts. $10000 Mount Vernon

Thanks George for the picture. Grj looks as if yours is not the same. To bad as I am looking for one.

Hello gej. I'm not sure if this is the correct unit for my Buick (1930 model 47). The master parts book I have does not list the manufacturer and I believe mine has two lines going to the unit. The PN in my book calls for a 227427. I see a trico stamp but cannot read. Any ides if this is a unit that will fit my coach?

I will do a search. Thank you

Good morning all. I am baffled that in both of the books I own for this car none give me what type(s) of oil to use? They both give me quantities for the engine, rear end and transmission Can you please provide the information or point me to what book I need to purchase to get this info? your responses will be greatly appreciated.

Hi Joel. Thank you very much for your insight. If I go with the ash I will also look at the borate solution or maybe even white vinager. I used the vinager on an antique cabinet to bet rid of the wood worms it had. Either way I will also look into cypress wood use. It will all depend on the prices I find. Thanks again!

Joel do you know what process you may have missed in using the ash? I will also look into Cyprus as well.

Joel what year is your car? If it's a 1930 series 40 model 47 do you have DR awnings for your wood pieces?

Hi Joel's. If you don't like Ash what would do you use?

I could use some measurements and pictures of some pieces when you can get to know them. I would like these for the very rear cossmember, back window and both quarter window areas. Thanks

One other question. When making new wood pieces do I use green or dried Ash.