Willie Wurke

How about a 1934 Ford pickup. It didn't seem fast until you tried to stop! (class of 48)

Most of the above texts contain the words "when I bought mine". None of them start with the words " when a good friend gave me his old car.' Does any one on here ever get a "freebee"? Here is a couple of my "freebees". The Lincoln was as shown: the T-Bird was all apart I bought these: 1931 LaSalle in 1951 at age22 ( pg 50 current AA) 1953 Rolls Royce in 1968 1929 Minerva in 1991 1977 Pontiac 2009(sold) 1941 Chev. 2014 (sold) 1984 Buick Riviera 2015 at age 86 (for sale) Still having fun with them. Took 2 to a Hospice benefit cruise in today: over 500 vehicles registered !

This worked for me at Hastings 1-800-837-2491 Ext.1359 Dawn Hill Have your cylinder bore size, width and depth of each ring groove when calling

I consider myself as experienced. I have a 1929 Minerva with a 6 cylinder, 6 liter sleeve valve engine. I have been thru it. Quite a piece of engineering! 2 crankshafts, 18 connecting rods, 7 oil pumps, 6 cylinder heads. It has hemi heads and hemi pistons. It should be called a "Fireball Six" The more they run the better they get, as the horsepower increases with the formation of carbon in the cylinders ! What questions do you have? I'll try to help.

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TERRY You really know how to scare an old timer! I thought someone had broken into my library and stolen my secrets. Mine is undated. Now you know why my 1931 LaSalle looked so good at Huntington! as ever, Willie

My 1952 model with the 4.5 litre engine also uses the plugs. They are shorter and look like valve heads and the thru bolts have nuts that are locked with cotter keys. The crankshaft is nitrided chrome moly steel. Has more ring to it than a church bell! Had no wear at all on shaft or bearings FYI: This engine design started life in 1919 with a 3"bore and 4.5 inch stroke and 190 cid. It ended 37 years later after growing to 490 cid. During that time it had various valve arrangements: DOHC, F head, and valve in head. Horsepower increased from 53 to 215. The final version had a 3.75 bore. Since the cylinder bore center to center dimension could not be increased; due to insufficient coolant between cylinders R R had to develop a new engine. Thus the V-8 was born! This engine history from: THE HISTORY OF A DIMENSION by S. H. GRYLLS,MA The'' dimension " is 4.150 inches and couldn't be changed due to main bearing locations

The ring gap should be .003 inches per inch of cylinder bore; in your case .011" Also check the top ring groove of your pistons for wear. The fix for this is the installation of K-wall spacers. This involves cutting the top of the groove and putting a spring steel spacer above the ring. For some unexplained reason this makes the top groove outlast the original. I used to do this in my shop on all engine overhauls. It involved a manual lathe which rode in the second groove and cut the worn top of the top groove and was operated by hand

I bought a new Nash Ambassador in 1953 with that same engine except mine had the aluminum head that was prone to corrosion big time! They later went to the cast iron heads. As for piston rings you should try standard . The manufacturers used to label them as standard to .010 oversize. That was a great engine: it first appeared in Nashes in 1917 and was used thru 1955 . REMEMBER: When fitting engine parts it is best to go for a loose fit instead of too tight!

TERRY: I'm the second owner of the car. Have had it 66 years. Only use it now to deliver old Hemmings magazines to young boys! By the way: It's Camaro and La Salle (translates to "the room") I founded the West Virginia Whitewater Region in 2004 and this was the first national meet for several members. They all were thrilled with the cars and the owners they met. Overall, it was a great day for all, and our membership earned eleven awards. as ever, Willie PS: I'm helping my friend build a "new" roll back hauler. A 1950 Mack cab, Peterbilt sleeper, Ford 750 frame ,8.3 Cummins Diesel out of a BIG motorhome (a pusher)

I THINK I HAVE FOUND A WAY TO INTERACT WITH THE BOYS WHO LIKE MODIFIEDS-------INVITE THEM TO A NATIONAL MEET AND LET THEM HAUL YOUR VEHICLE WHEN YOU GET THERE SEND THEM TO CLASS 36. THEN EVERY ONE GOES HOME ALL EXCITED! Here's an example: A 1936 Ford Truck with a Chevy 501 engine taking my 1931 LaSalle to the Huntington Meet ! I got a repeat preservation and possibly a new member and he got a lot of tips on prepping a car for shows Comments expected and appreciated. My "FUN" badge is pegged on HIGH

I recall the 50 series had running boards and the 52 series did not. I think the ones with runningboards look better. I might add that AACA classes all LaSalles as classics. I have owned mine 66 years!

Ken. I'm that old mechanic that knows "juicetricity'. 88years old with 75 years in auto repair. If you don't need to look original get a Model A cutout (it's round) that uses a diode from Snyders Antique Auto Parts . Part # A-10505-SS for $56. It's for a 6volt ,positive ground system

Sounds like you still have the bad cutout; if so get an old mechanic that knows electricity to open it and "sneak" a diode in it.

A dear friend in Pascagoula, Miss. had a Locomobile with Kellner (French) coach work back in the late 1940's. Do you have any info on this vehicle. It's stablemates were a 1929 Lincoln Locke Club Roadster and a 1929 Minerva Hibbard & Darrin Town Car. I now have these 2 cars in my collection, but I didn't get a chance at the Locomobile. It had been damaged when the garage roof collapsed on it during a hurricane . The last I heard was a local airplane mechanic had it.

"IT ONLY COSTS A NICKEL MORE TO GO FIRST CLASS" Buy both; One for "work' and one for "play" (assuming you like michanickin)

I see nothing "amazing' about a 1966 model car starting every time. I would expect that of a 1926 model!

This is a 3 inch meter with Studebaker plate. The cap is useless but the meter could be used as ornament. It won't be accurate but todays younger generation won't believe their purpose when you tell them! Asking $25.00 and I ship anywhere in US. 304-469-9648 - call after 8 PM edt

Here is an answer to your third question. At a trotting track (horse racing) in Australia they used a Stutz starting gate that was a car with the body removed. Our fellow club member down there , Garry M, now has it and is building a three door roadster body similar to a Locke body on it. I hope he reads this post and will give us a progress report

This is a Florida car with no rust, in fact the underside is so clean the chalk marks on the underside of the front fenders still show! It shows no sign of ever having any body damage in it's 66000 miles. The bumpers and all the body moldings are like new, showing no sign of ever being bumped, not even a parking lot "door ding" on any of the wheel opening moldings. Color is red with the original red velour interior that looks like new. It developed an engine knocking/overheating problem on a trip through West Virginia which resulted in me getting the car. It now has a new radiator and water pump and a Jasper remanufactured engine with a 100,000 mile warranty. It drives and handles on the road like a Buick should. Includes the owners manual and all the new car documents. I need the garage space so have cut the price to $5500 for a quick sale! Call 304-469-9648 if no answer , leave message, I'll call back ASAP

Lump; There is no resemblance between the Riviera of 1968 and my 1984 model. The !968 was all Buick whereas the 1984 was an Oldsmobile Tornado with Buick badges. There was a time there when Olds used plastic coated camshaft sprockets. The plastic broke off and in some cases the engine would keep running as the plastic particles clogged the oil pump pickup and cause bearing failure. I once bought a wrecked 1979 Buick Electra which used the Olds 403 engine. I replaced the diesel engine in my 1980 Chevy truck with the Buick engine and TH-400 automatic transmission ( after replacing the cam sprocket with a metal one.) I'll be in Xenia on Apr. 10-13 if you would like to hear " THE REST OF THE STORY"

This post sounds very familiar except , I am the seller. Had a GI with wife travelling cross country in a 1984 Buick Riviera when engine overheated and started knocking. He was forced to "dump' the Buick and get a rental car. The rental company called me in and I bought the Buick. I paid him his asking price (I don't dicker with a man who has agreed to die for me. his luck was bad enough already!) I had the engine removed and sent to Jasper Engines for a re-man procedure which included a 100,000 mile,3 year nationwide warranty which covers parts and labor. It now has a new radiator ,AC compressor ,and better than new engine. Buick only warranted the engine for 24000 miles when new! It's now looking for a new owner and a 1st junior in class 27P

You were told correctly. The powerglide differential has a higher gear ratio which will lower your engine speed and prolong its life.. Your noise is probably coming from the pinion bearings. They were famous for that! Have replaced many in my time.

Roger James of D&D Classic Car Restorations did this run a few years ago. He ran a flathead Ford V-8. I think it was 1949 model but not positive. HE IS ONE FINE PERSON AND CAN POSSIBLY GIVE YOU SOME POINTERS. CALL HIM AT 937-473-2229. Heres wishing you a good trip

Keep the Buick and buy the Lexington because I have always heard that the man who dies with the most toys wins. They just never told me what he wins! I'm playing it safe with seven.