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  1. I was hoping to find a decent used driver set. $400+ is pretty pricey.
  2. Looking for a set of sill plates for my '54 48D 2 dr sedan.
  3. I went with the copper nickel lines a few years ago when I switched to a dual master on my '54. Bending lines is super easy. If you go this route buy a decent flaring tool. I did it in the garage on jack stands. I managed to screw up the threads in the junction block when removing the old lines, so be careful there.
  4. I'm looking for some tee bolts that fit into the keyhole slots behind the headlamp door on the front fenders. They're the ones that the barrel screws thread onto. Anybody have some they want to part with or know If these are available anywhere?
  5. http://www.classicfabrication.com/
  6. Not particularly hard to rewire. I did my '54 a couple of years ago for the same reason. The insulation was cracking off of several of the wires right where it exited the column. There's 7 or 8 wires to deal with and fishing them back through the column was probably more aggravating than the rest of the job. The original is a "ribbon cable" with all of those wires side by side stuck together in a flat "ribbon". Not sure if there's anybody making that particular harness, I couldn't find one at the time. I made up my own sticking with the factory color code laying out each length of wire side b
  7. Tension from the thermostatic spring under the black cover should hold the choke butterfly closed when cold. The screws that hold that cover can be loosened and the cap rotated to increase or decrease the tension. Those bi-metal springs hold up pretty well, but replacements are available for pretty cheap if needed. If you don't have a factory service manual, get one. It is pretty thorough on the carb, and choke operation and set-up. Check out the Hometown Buick site as well, they have a lot of the manuals/literature available to view online.
  8. The choke stove pipe. It's a rigid line that has a flare and nut on the carb/choke end. There should be an insulated sleeve over it to retain heat . It runs behind the rear of the valve cover/head then turns back forward to slip into a little tube on the back side of your exhaust manifold (green line approximates routing behind the head and manifold in first photo). It pulls outside air through that tube in the back of the manifold where it warms as the manifold heats up from the exhaust gasses, then up through the stove pipe and into the choke housing where it heats the thermostatic spring an
  9. Is there a specific shade of red I should look for to paint the inside of the circles on the side script emblems? Anybody know what happened to the Buick Highway site 1954buick.com ? It's been down for several weeks now. It has been a great resource. So much information there.
  10. My '54 has a short flat braided ground strap from the back of the passenger side head to one of the screws that holds the air box on the firewall.
  11. There's a nice series of videos on youtube that covers the ps gear box.
  12. Reviving an old thread here, but I ran into the same issue working on a 2179s WCD. The kit I purchased came with an accelerator pump that was too small to fit in the diameter of the pump bore, and a bit longer. Everything else in the kit looked right. I bought the kit from CARS which had it listed for 1950-1955 Buick WCD, even identifying the 2179s model in the fitment details. I found this thread while researching the discrepancy. Then I went directly to the kit manufacturers website, Daytona Parts Co. They have a separate kit listed for the 1955 Carter WCD 2179s that is different, so I conta
  13. Update: It comes out pretty easily. Take the grease zerk fittings out from the ends of the shaft. After removing the shaft mounting bolts, rotate it counter clockwise about 45 degrees. Then from the wheel well, push the lower edge of the inner fender inward and slip the control arm shaft between the inner fender and the upper shock mount.
  14. I'm looking for a little guidance on a front end rebuild. Specifically the upper control arm on the driver side. and how to get it out to replace bushings. I haven't started working on it yet, but I'm trying to figure out how everything comes apart before I do. The manual doesn't give any direction other than removing the generator and motor mount bolts and then jacking the motor up to get the bolts out of the control arm shaft. It says nothing about removing any other parts like fenders, inner fenders, etc., but I'm not seeing how the driver side clears the inner fender/battery tray and the
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