Morgan Wright

Why use paper? I use rubber in mine.

These carburetors are designed for gravity flow which is under a pound of pressure. Fuel pumps usually have too much pressure and force fuel past the needle valve in the carb and the float bowl floods and leaks. All the leaky gas can start a fire. Get a vacuum tank.

I live in Saratoga so I might as well make the 5 miles journey to the show. Who else is coming?

I tossed out my cork gaskets and cut rubber ones. I'll use cork when they start making basketball valves out of cork, tires valves from cork, thermos lids and mason jar sealers from cork, and inner tubes. I know they use cork for wine bottles, but they tell you to store the wine bottle on its side so the cork doesn't leak. I bet half the troubles people have with vacuum tanks is the cork gaskets. Rubber seals vacuum 100 times better than cork.

What Brian was saying is cars don't run without vacuum.

Take the vacuum tank apart and move the float up and down 100 times and check the valves. It should work every time. I had one that worked 98 or 99 times out of 100 and all it takes is one time not working to mess up your day. I had to tighten (shorten) the springs to get it to work 100% of the time.

My '40 had no air outlet.

Also, don't throw away these nuts. In the hardware store the 1/2 inch nuts are coarse (13 threads) or fine (20 threads) but these are much finer than fine. They are like 26 threads or something, and hard to find.

Agreed I knew there was something wrong when my bridge washer was spinning around in circles, I figured there had to be a washer to hold it up on the squared part of the valve stem. So I looked at my old Silvertowns and there it was.

Leyden, You can see the base of the valve stem is round and not squared off like the rest of the valve stem. The squaring of the valve stem, and the squaring of the hole of the bridge washer, forces the bridge washer to be oriented parallel to the tube. But if the bridge washer goes too low, it can rotate any which way, which is not good, like this. But if I use the 90 year old bridge washer which is swedged with a ring washer, it brings it up to the squared part of the valve stem, and it can't rotate. So, there needs to be a washer there to keep it up on the squared part like this so it doesn't rotate. Here is the old bridge washer / ring washer combo being pressed back into service after 90 years.

Here is another one:

What's missing from my tube setup, and shown in the Schrader illustration that Leyden B posted above, is item J, the ring washer. I wondered if my old 1920's tires had them. I removed one of the bridge washers (item 𝙸 on the Schrader picture) from my 90-year-old tubes, looking for (item J) the ring washer, and this is what I found, compared to the modern bridge washer and tube they sell today, which has no ring washer. I think we need to use these. Somebody tell Coker. Outside diameter 0.93 inch, inside diameter 0.48 inch, thickness 0.15 inches on the outer ring but made of 3 rings, the inner ring thickness 0.08 and middle one 0.097 inch

I saved my old tires. Miller Tire Company (defunct 1920's) with Silvertown tubes. The old "bridge washers" are rusted but there they are!!

Tire shop mechanics probably did 50 tires a day back then. I can redo this one.

I was so proud of my tire mounting skills. Knew just how to split the rim, tuck the rim flap in, stomp the tires back on, hammer the lock. Look at me, I'm the world's expert on 1917 tires. All the while, I had no idea what I was doing.

Thanks. It's good to know I did all 4 of my tires wrong, now.

Today I redid a tire and got rid of the tube with the rubber valve stem and used a tube with the correct metal valve stem. For 1910s and 1920s era Buicks and other makes. From Hartford Tubes, and Coker Tires, it comes with this thing. What the hedgehog is this thing:

When I did the clutch on my '40 Special Model 41, Bob's Automobilia had the replacement clutch and pressure plate but he suggested I get the "new style" pressure plate he was selling, and the plate that went with it. He said it was much better. I used that one and it worked great. ,

When did Buick have righty loosy lefty tighty? Sounds like Chrysler in the 60s

Missing top is major 𒐕𒐖𒐕 in price. I'd give the guy 12,000 Keep in mind this is not rare. Buick made 4000 Model 19s in 1910

The guy has it all cleaned up and wants $20,000 https://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/listing/1910-buick-19-bouckville-ny-2775752?fbclid=IwAR3g19JB_DRq_6-V8UKZb5B06UF3pXNCSt82427QtgBamG2WaFp8EY4XFY0

This 1915 Buick has 36 x 5 balloons and you can tell right away.

But not when you hit the floor starter pedal?

Does the ammeter needle move when you hit the starter?

I'm no expert but I think when they make these wheels, they heat the metal rim up to 600 degrees to expand it, then they put it around the assembled spokes quickly and let it cool so it compresses back down onto the spokes. I don't know how you'd go about doing that, seems like a job for a professional.