Scott Mckenzie
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Posts posted by Scott Mckenzie
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20 hours ago, dr914 said:
so turn the key to on, light is on, start the car, light is still on? OR turn the key to on light is off, start the car light is on?
The light stays on while engine is running
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I`m picking at a list of things , one is the amp light stays on when running. The alternator has been rebuilt, I`ve tried unplugging and plugging the voltage regulator many times in case corrosion has built up on the contacts. Lost in the woods again.
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I `m looking for the member who sells the mini starter for my`64 425 , please.
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Caveat Emptor. Learn from my mistake. Never again.
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Time well spent, looks great!
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4 hours ago, RivNut said:
From some of the things I've read, you don't want a buffer running at the fast rpm's that a grinder runs at.
I used a 6 inch wheel on my homemade set up with great results . Perhaps using a large wheel with a faster rim speed could cause the grief you speak of
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3 minutes ago, gungeey said:
The thin lower body panel trim from rear qtr to front wheelwell. was flash chromed. never saw wheelwell mouldings in themselves flash chromed. But who knows
A pro polisher would send out those strips to chemically remove the chrome and get the stainless polished like a mirror and leave it like that.
Steve
I was thinking more a DIY solution (Deep pockets, short arms)
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I`ll further muddy the waters,Remove your moldings, get a heat gun , Set it on low, soften the tar and scrape off tar.Any residue left can be removed with lacquer thinner or acetone I use a green 3m scrubbie and lots of paper towels. I used an old 1/4 hp motor and attached a mandrel on it so I could run a buffing wheel. Get a bar of stainless compound and buff til your happy.
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Call Clarkes,they are really good people they should have an idea / size for you,
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The only thing to watch for are the clips, they rust out over time. do a hose leak test . If it leaks there will be work to be done to repair rust and holes. Very common to find leaks from the clip fasteners rust away leaving a hole .Check your trunk for moisture. The body service manual shows how to install the glass with the rubber spacers. May as well give it a go. Hopefully you have a Riv that was garage kept its whole life
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This happens when the Gas (Ethanol) evaporates from the float bowls after sitting for a long while . There is a thread about this in the last year or so. Riv Nut had a solution using an electric mini pump . well worth looking into.
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Go to the HAMB and check their archives.
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Check your oil ,see if you have water in it, sometimes it looks like an ugly milkshake .Best of luck.
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3 hours ago, JZRIV said:
If your goal is original appearance blasting with glass beads will ruin the natural cast semi-rough finish. So many of these covers have been ruined by inexperience blast cabinet operators. In some cases of more severe oxidation yes using a more aggressive media will improve it but only because the original surface has deteriorated significantly.
I would first remove the paint to see what the natural surface looks like. Use lacquer thinner or media blast with soda, walnut shells, or plastic media only. Once you see what they look like after paint removal, make a decision from there. It is nearly impossible to recreate the original finish after it has been altered. Preferably you don’t want to coat them with anything but again depending on how bad surface condition is it could get you closer to oringal appearing.
I don`t believe mine are original and glass beads cleaned them up nicely .As with most tools , it`s all in the hands of the operator . Flat clear (automotive) helps to keep the finish looking good while stopping flash oxidation which is common with Aluminum
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I went to a local U- Blast, used glass beads ,sprayed flat clear on them.
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Welcome to the Great White North, Enjoy your stay.
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Maybe you`ll get some driving in this Summer after all !
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I have not used them , I had mine re-cored.The top and bottom remain stock and the cooling part is replaced,looks stock but performs like a new rad.Saved a few bucks too!
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Well it`s time for another dip into the puzzle box .Headliner is in so it`s time to install the moulding, is there a best place to start? any super sneaky tricks you fellas may have garnered over the years to make this a more pleasant (?) task? Thanks in advance. Scott.
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On 8/22/2018 at 7:47 PM, KongaMan said:
IIRC, the turn signal and brake lights don't go through the switch. As such, even a tripped breaker in the switch shouldn't affect them. OTOH, if they go south, it might cause the breaker to trip. You might try pulling those lamps to see if anything starts working. Unplug the front lighting harness and see if the taillights come on. Unplug the flat harness to the rear and see if the headlights start working.
Not to hijack but what is the acronym IIRC ?
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Someone who out there could make some cash by casting or 3d printing sets maybe...wishful thinking on my part, there are only so many people who would get it. Back to Ebay . May the force be with you!
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4 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:
That would be my set. I bought them on Ebay, but you have to Vulcanize yourself to a diligent search.
I thought it was you who had them,...the search continues!
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Ok I wanna get my spock on,I know someone on here has a set of license plate frames From Lausen Buick (westwood) do they ever come up for sale?
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I was happy when I welded in a rust free trunk...gotta up my game
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65 Riviera Value
in Buick Riviera
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Do your research,make an honest evaluation. Cant expect people on a forum to set a price for you .