tinsled

Coming back to the old topic... As I told in previous, the body tag is missing. Was there any other place they marked the body/frame id /VIN in 1942? 1948 shop manual shows the place in right side frame, near to master brake cylinder, where the VIN was stamped to the steel beam. However, that place was obviously not used in 1942.

Sir, Any news on the fender extensions? Thanks, Pekka

Hi Auburncoupe, Please let me know what size extensions you have. Thanks, Pekka

Sorry it took this long to reply, but my car was snowed in for a couple of months this winter... Here you see appx. dimensions for the extensions I'm looking for: - the bottom extension for front ender should be appx. 19" long - pretty sure the rear fender bottom extension is the same for roadmaster and super? ...re-post "the big picture" what I'm missing...

Hi again, I also do need the hood center chrome molding, see below photo. I believe this molding is spesific for ser.70, because of longer wheelbase compared to ser. 40, 50... Thanks, Pekka

Hi Auburncoupe, I am very sorry but myself I do not know enough to answer your question for Super (ser.50) interchangeability with Roadmaster (ser.70). However I quote what Gary (g-g-g0) told me yesterday; "It appears from what I decipher in the parts book that if your car does have fender skirts then there appears to be a metal extension as well as a gravel guard. <for rear fender extensions> Skirts and/or no skirts require two pieces of stainless trim. Don't believe there is any stainless on the rocker panel under the doors. In response to AUBURNCOUPE's question, it does appear that a model '51 and '71 parts will interchange." I am away from home this week, thus cannot take measurements of the actual car, but within a couple of weeks I will post here some dimensions... Thanks, Pekka

Hello Auburncoupe, I need some sheet metal parts for my 1942 series 70 Roadmaster, see below please.... Some special sheet metal parts of the fender extensions are missing under the doors; the front fender lower extension is supposed to be attached to rocker panel, the rear fender extension probably to the door bottom? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Also I need the ivory colored push buttons and speaker "screen" for the Sonomatic radio, see below link for details Thanks, Pekka

Thank you Spineyhill for the valuable information. Looks like the rocker arm of #9762 is longer than of #529 & 530, also the "foot" is at different angle. Could it be the camshaft is different for 1952 series 70 compared to previous models? Unfortunately I do not have ANYTHING but the delete plate left of what has been with my car, no rocker arm, no core, not even smell... I'll keep hunting for #529 or #530 Is there any source for the diaphragm material - rubber canvas? - I most probably need to rebuild the pump anyway if I will find a "NOS" or core...

I wonder, would this pump fit & work on my engine...? #9762 Some eBay sellers say it would fit 320 cu in engines from 1940...-52 ??? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1952-Buick-Series-70-Double-Action-Fuel-Pump-NEW/371244349574?hash=item566fe33886:g:IOcAAOSwmrlUxch0&vxp=mtr

Thanks in advance Spineyhill. There's no hurry, your help will be appreciated.

Some of the previous owners has removed the mechanical fuel pump and put a delete plate on. My car is 1942 series 70 Roadmaster, 320cid engine. Very difficult to find the pump here n Scandinavia... ...thus I ask you fellows to help finding "alternative donors" for it... Which models & years fuel pumps are interchangeable with my engine? Thanks, Pekka aka tinsled

Please excuse me being shamefully late, but... ... Thanks, the same... and - Happy & Successfull Year 2018!

I am sorry, but the sign looks like a repro/lookalike to me. May be made in 1970's, 80's or 90's, but not in beginning of 1900's. Let me list some issues that made me suspicious: 1) signs used by dealers or garages tend to follows the factory graphics standards, this does not 2) the general design & appearance, especially the proportions of the sculpted car figure (looks like drawn by someone who do not know cars - compare to Chinese toys) 3) why would a dealership or garage mention a specific model/style car in the business sign? - that was not the practice in business signs If you like it and can get it at reasonable price, go ahead. BUT if the seller offers it as authentic piece of history at collector price, leave it.

Hi Mike, Yes, you're right. Some hardware store probably would have something close enough, but I make one faster than find a suitable in a store. After all, all the tools by name here are for modern cars, no such thing as adjusting tool for drum brakes known if you ask on the counter. I already made the tool and adjusted the brakes, thanks to you kind folks. The information was the optimal angle and the lenght of "the tongue" (roughly 2" is close enough) The issue was also, I could not bleed the air out of the pipes before the shoes were close to the drums. Even if the main cylinder was good & tight and the reservoir was full of fluid, the pedal just went limp to the floor no matter how long you pumped it. When I adjusted the shoe gap, the fluid went down to the pipes and air started to come out from the bleeder screws... The brakes are now OK Thanks, Pekka

Thanks Gary, Just what I need. The lower control arm is so low that it blocks the adjustment hole, there's no room for straight tool such as a screwdriver. I knew I need to make a bent tool, but by Gary's photo I can get the right proportions and bent angle without "try and fail" iteration. Thanks again, Pekka

would anyone post a photo or sketch of the GM brake adjusting tool, please? The one you use to turn the expanding screw between the low ends of the brake shoes from behind the support plate. I am working on my 1942 Buick (12" drums) when I realized I'm missing the adjustment tool to get the shoes close enough to the drums. I do not have time to seek and buy the tool (overseas) - It should be simple enough to make it by myself. Your help is appreciated - please! Thanks, Pekka

True. Are there re-makes for the "B-U-I-C-K" push-buttons? I am looking the ivory colored buttons used in 1942-48 models - no luck so far. One possibility would be casting them in resin. I have the means to make rubber molds but would need to borrow at least one button to make a mold...

Thank you Gene! Valuable information - also for the inside window frames. My car's restoration was started by some of the previous owners. The gentleman who sold the car to me could not tell anything of the restoration, he had not done anything for the car. However, I was in doubt to see the inside window frames chromed (also repaired by welding and grinding). I suspected that the chrome finish was "customizing" rather than restoring. Most the period cars have the frames painted/wood grained. However your 1946 brochure has the windshield inside frame chromed, thus at least for 1946 it is correct. Back to the radio grille - Would anyone be able to hint; where to find the correct or even close to similar mesh?

Any interior restorers here?

Anyone to give a hint where to get close to correct mesh for the radio face...???

My 1942 series 70 is missing some fragile parts on the radio "face", see below photo; - the radio push buttons and the vol/tune knobs - the mesh on the speaker (behind the horizontal chrome bars) I suppose it should look like this photo ... or this? (the mesh is different, which is correct for 1942?) The question is; Where to get correct looking mesh? ...also... Are the ivory push buttons available? (n.o.s./repops) - where? Thanks, Pekka

Thanks for the hint, Gary I sent them inquiry on their web page - Let's see what they reply. Cheers, Pekka

Bump! - Help needed for the fender extension bottom parts, See post #1, photo #1 in this thread. I am still missing all of the bottom parts, front and rear fender extensions. Anyone to give a hint where to find or willing to sell me spares? Thanks in advance, Pekka

I'm restoring the tail lights, now mended and polished the lenses outside. Then I noticed, that inside the long pointed part there is a arrow shaped area, which has been painted or plated. The paint has partially peeled off (or better say crumbled) - cannot figure out the original shade nor the purpose. How should I restore this area? By painting? What color? Maybe silver plated? Thanks for advice, Pekka See below photos: 1) The actual part with partially flaked off coating (detail photo) 2) 1942-48 Roadmaster tail light assy 3) 1942-48 Roadmaster tail light lens