Kenendcindyc

Richard I just found this thread, absolutely fantastic work.

I kept it simple the bushing is bigger than that end hole so a drop placed in that end hole will suffice. I did size it for a nice right angle flip top oil thingy if i ever decide to install one . haha

And all back together 👍🏻

And reused the bushing from the old housing.

I bolted the brush holders on with some nice brass bolts I had. Didn’t feel like making some rivets 😬.

And ended up with this. 😀 I left it thicker where space allows I don’t expect this to fail again. 👍🏻 Hahaha

Started with a chunk of 6061 aluminium

Luckily the armature was unharmed and in good shape, just some minor scuff marks on the commutator when the housing failed.

Hi again friends, Today I bring to you a alternative way of repairing a broken starter end cap. Enjoy We started with this. It failed the very first time I tried starting my car. 🙁

If you guys like seeing these little projects let me know. Thanks , Ken

And all ready to go back in. 😀

Machined all the pieces off that didn’t look right.

Decided to make it from 1018 mild steel (definitely overkill but it was in stock) 😀

Super glued it all back together to get a idea on what we needed

Hi again friends, my last post on machining a cylinder head seemed to go over well and I hope you all enjoyed the pictures. 😀 This time a little simpler project a passenger door lock cylinder housing. This is is what we have to start with 🙁

Better pictures of the Vermont car

That second picture is tough to tell but trust me it’s exactly the same as mine.

No problem JB-Ed I love the back and forth discussion it’s how things get figured out. Google (Singh groves hetclub) and it should get you some info. Or just Singh grooves. I have no idea if they work but figured I’d try them. They might be total witch craft but damn my engine is running good. 😀. As far as the distributor I’ll attach more pictures of mine and a car from Vermont. Hopefully we can figure this mystery out. 👍🏻

Unfortunately I will not be attending ,work gets in the way sometimes. You might be right about the distributor not being original, information on these years is hard to find and I’ve found pretty much no information about a 1-0836 except that it might be a early senior six engine distributor. I doubt it’s a replacement for this engine since North East Electric was bought by Delco in 1929 but who knows 🤷🏼‍♂️.

Haha, at first I was like cat? Maybe he spotted the o2 sensor bung in the exhaust I used to tune the carb? But then I remembered “the 🐈 “ haha good one 👍🏻

Ya they appear to be a bit tough to come across. 🙁although I must say a don’t hate the original style packing due to the fact if it starts leaking it will never leave me stranded a quick tightening of the packing or worst case 10 min to add more packing and were go to go. Not so easy with a modern seal in there. With that in mind I don’t mind a occasional drip now in then 😀.

Yes the photos are not in sequence and yes there are “highly experimental haha” V groves in the transfer area. That’s what’s nice about making your own stuff you can try anything you like. 😀 I spent about a year studying flathead combustion chamber design and I’ve come to the conclusion that just about every shape you can think of has been tried and has its strong points and weaknesses. One disadvantage to flatheads are there long combustion chambers and there weak resistance to detonation, when compression is increased. One way to help prevent detonation is by bringing the pistons up to within .040” from the head in the squish area and that would be the best way to do it , but on this engine pistons stop .070” below the deck and the gasket is .065” thick so that leaves my squish area at about .135” way to big for proper squish effect. Soooooo the boys over on the Hudson forum have had good results by adding turbulence groves to their flatheads when raising compression ,it seemed to eliminate detonation that they had before the grooves. So I added them in figuring I could easily weld them in if they were a flop, but as of right now they seem to be fine I get no detonation unless I push the timing too far so they can stay😀. Yes that’s the original design head gasket provided buy the WONDERFUL Tom and Cindy of Myers early Dodge.

Ahhh sorry I misunderstood your question ,I’ll post some better pictures of the coolant passages. As far as the carb goes you might be right but I have spent quite awhile tuning and rejeting this Stewart carb and I must say I absolutely love it. I can pull it down to under 10 mph in third and smoothly accelerate to 65 mph. It’s a VERY GOOD carb when tuned and should last another 1000 years with its cast iron and bronze construction 😀. As for the distributor at first like you I thought it wasn’t original but I have now met three other people with 28 Std Six’s that we’re built around mine that have the exact same model so I’m pretty sure it is original 🤷🏼‍♂️ But who knows anything is possible. For the timing I’m still playing with the advance curve I’ll let you know when I perfect it. (Although it does seem to like a curve that’s really close to what Chrysler used in the 25” long blocks from the 50s that were running similar compression)

Well time will tell, but I think it will be fine. I'm using the same pistons as a 1930 chrysler 268 and that's a 100 hp motor, the Dodge Brothers six is a seven main bearing engine with 2.375" mains and 2.125" rod bearings and a forged steel crankshaft with full pressure lubrication. Plus I figure during normal cruse its only producing the HP required to move you down the road same as before except now your throttle is open less and your burning less fuel and making less heat. Only when your calling on it to do something it couldn't do before is it working harder and under more strain but that will be intermittent. For comparison these are the connecting rods I’m running compared to some rods from a modern 230 hp v8 and what the lower end of the Dodge looks like. So my guess is its over built enough to handle more than original HP. Crankshaft picture is Dodge Vs Model T ford (I raised the compression on it also and its doing fine) haha

Ya when I decided to build a head I went for the highest compression I could without shrouding the valves too much. I figured I could allways machine the transfer section more if I needed to lower it some. Compression stayed reasonable because the piston stops about .070” below the deck on this motor and head gasket is .065” thick. If you compare the old combustion chamber with the new you will see it’s probably a little more than can be gained with a .030” shave. 😀 Note these pictures are some what deceiving because of the difference in distance that I took the pictures. The originals CC at 100 and the new head at 55cc. Combustion chambers are .750"deep on original and .370" on the new head and it has a shorter transfer section.