chuckfmtexas
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Posts posted by chuckfmtexas
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I had previously posted about the 1921 Buick Touring Model 45 I purchased last May at the Mecum Indy auction. Well, it has been sitting quietly waiting for a couple of minor items that needed attention and to finally be registered here in Texas. Got the safety inspection and it is now registered as an antique.
This past weekend the car finally came out of hiding and Friday night I took it to a 1920's murder mystery 'flapper' event at the request of a friend so they could use it for background in photos. That worked out great and then I thought since it is in the trailer why not take it to the festival in Waxahachie. TX about an hour south of Fort Worth.
There was a car show with 75 cars as part of the festival which included several hundred vendors for several blocks around the courthouse square. Great weather and enormous crowds after all the rain we have had in Texas. The car was selected as a top 20 participant and had the most fun talking to folks who wanted to know what was it, did I restore it, do I drive it, and what a wonderful vehicle for the public to see and appreciate. I really like the way parents would lift up the little kids, show them the interior of the car and overhear them explain the big tires and wood wheels, the dash and steering, gear shift and brake handle, etc. A real learning experience for many young and hopefully interested car kids.Life is Good?
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I will ask Roy whqt gives?
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On 7/5/2018 at 6:38 AM, 38Buick 80C said:
50 seems a bit low but it varies by how many registrants we have. Denver was a smaller show, thus less registrants, less cars and less judges. Assume you have a team of 4 or 5 for each class and there are over 10 classes and some classes get split into 2 or 3 so assume 15+ classes,...
According to Roy Faries we had 64 Judges: Here are Roy's numbers I used in a BCA2018 presentation to the NTX club last Saturday. I was on a team that judged the Riviera's and we had 11 to judge and like Pete I was the chassis guy so I too was up and down a bunch. In the Denver thin air and the warmth of the day as we approached noon the water bottles came in handy.
Chuck
Final Numbers
•Registrations w/guests: 331••Vendors: 33Paved Outdoor spaces 46
Indoor spaces 28
Car Corral spaces 9
Total Cars 171
400 point judging 72
Display only 64
Archival 21
Modified 14
Drivers 53
Senior 15
People
Total people 654
Judges 64
Chuck
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Thanks Gert, I have a 1932 also.
Chuck
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Just acquired a 1921 Touring Model 45 and I need the dash light to fill the hole and light the gauges. Also could use a rearview mirror and spot light if they are out there somewhere. What have you? See photos
Chuck Nixon
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You should also try Cars on Line as I have sold and bought cars from the site..www.carsonline.com
Chuck
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Just acquired a 1921 Touring Model 45 and I need the dash light to fill the hole and light the gauges. Also could use a rearview mirror and spot light if they are out there somewhere. See photos of what I need on a 1920 Touring at the recent BCA Nationals in Denver. Thanks for looking and any advice or what have you?
Chuck Nixon
My car
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On 5/17/2018 at 9:28 PM, trimacar said:
I worked at White Post during the late 80's. The quality of work was superb. When a car left there, it was rebuilt down to the last nut and bolt, and drove like a new car.
I know what you paid, and it's a fraction of what the restoration would have cost, even back then. Well bought, I know you'll enjoy it.....I almost think I worked on this car, but you'd have to have receipts from 1988-1990 for that to be true.....
Update: Turns out the car was back at White Post every 2-3 years for carb cleanout and tune up plus other minor things to keep it in great condition. I have receipts into the late 90's.
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On 5/17/2018 at 9:28 PM, trimacar said:
I worked at White Post during the late 80's. The quality of work was superb. When a car left there, it was rebuilt down to the last nut and bolt, and drove like a new car.
I know what you paid, and it's a fraction of what the restoration would have cost, even back then. Well bought, I know you'll enjoy it.....I almost think I worked on this car, but you'd have to have receipts from 1988-1990 for that to be true.....
Thanks for the encouraging words. I have probably have 20+ letters and invoices from "Billy", owner of White Post in the file documenting the restoration, invoices, explanation of things White Post did over the years including a letter that apologizes for having to raise labor rates from $17.50 to $20.00 to keep his good people and cost of living increases. I am going to copy everything and make a complete history book and perhaps write an article for the Bugle. The car was featured on the cover of the March 1981 Bugle and there was a letter inside giving the history of where the owner found the car etc. There is a letter in the file from the owner to Billy saying he paid for $275 in the late 50's or early 60's but I have to get home from Indy and re-read it all. I sent Pete Phillips, Bugle editor, photos of the car before I bid on the car and we discussed condition and price range. He and I were on the same page on price range so I felt good when I got it at what I considered a good price. With a few cosmetic upgrades it will be like it just came out of the restoration process. Engine purrs and starts easy.
More when I get the car delivered to Fort Worth and I get to know it better.
Chuck
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Well, I promised my wife that I was not going to buy a car at Mecum Indy where I am this week. Intended to just have fun watching others spend money and a lot of nice Buicks changing hands. Yesterday I broke my promise.
I was thumbing through a catalog of The Maryland Collection, 47 cars being sold at 'No Reserve' and noticed a 1921 Buick Touring car for sale. I walked to the display and was blown away by this wonderful car that had been restored over the years and looked awesome. In the back seat was a 3 ring binder full of the car's history including history back to early 60's, complete restoration receipts from 1979-80 and later by the renowned White Post Restorations of White Post, VA.
After reading about the car and work done I decided to check with a friend that knows early Buicks on pricing to confirm what I thought the car might be worth. We were both on the same page so I decided to bid on the car and after spirited bidding, I won the car. I am thrilled as it will be a fun car for family, shows, parades etc. Apparently there are very few 1921 Buicks left, especially in this condition. The car had been sitting in a 100+ car collection in Maryland for more than 10 years and after the passing of the father in 2017, the family decided to liquidate the collection, hence my lucky day.
Called the wife and explained what I had done, then sent photos and she forgives me since she loves the older, antique cars.
Buicks foreverChuck
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Buick GS400 Coupe in Fort Worth, TX..
I have too many cars and have to sell one or two so I am reluctantly parting with this ground up restoration GS400. I bought it in Dec 2013 out of Iowa with the interior and paint done. I added the pin stripes plus all the work listed below:
- Engine/Running Gear Completely rebuilt, numbers matching original 400 engine and transmission
- Engine rebuilt to stock specs except cylinders/pistons are .30 over
- Rebuilt correct Rochester 4 Barrel carburetor
- Alternator, Starter, water pump, fuel pump, distributor, power steering, all new or rebuilt
- New 17 electric fan and shroud om new 4 core radiator to meet OEM specs, linked electric radiator fan controls with A/C controls
- New front after-market disk brakes/master cylinder/power booster
- All suspension/bearings/bushings rebuilt or replaced
- New rubber dust shields on fender wells
- Replaced rear end with one with little wear on third member gears
- New OEM correct exhaust system Coated exhaust headers
- Correct Star Wars air cleaner
- New B.F. Goodrich 14" red line radial tires
- New Vintage Air Conditioning System and used new A6 aluminum look alike compressor Used OEM under hood A/C compressor mounting bracket/pulleys
- New under dash Vintage Air heater/AC box with controls Removed existing dash bezel and installed stock A/C bezel with center vent, ducts etc. Tachometer not working
- New carpet and new Legendary white vinyl interior including new new dash pad and new Kick panels
- New Custom Modern Radio with blue tooth/USB connection and new rear and front speakers with new radio aerial
- Excellent condition tilt steering and turn signal levers installed
- Exterior - New correct OEM spec grill, grill vertical piece re-chromed, improved top grill stainless
- New passenger side mirror, new new quarter window latches and new rear window new glass
- Many other odds and ends improved or replaced. .
Price $ 31,995 and I am losing a bunch of money at that price and I am willing to discuss offers
Engine without A/C compressor installed yet.
A/C compressor installed
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We had a great time at the OTHER table getting to sit with the Scheib's and meet other folks. Concur on great food and atmosphere.
Chuck & Dianne
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I plan to Bill, see you there.
Chuck
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Thanks again for the positive comments. I was overwhelmed by the positive comments about the SportWagon at the BCA meet in Brookfield even to the point that several folks told me it was their favorite car at the meet. That included a gentleman who, while I was drying off the car Friday morning introduced himself and his 14-15 year old son and said " I just wanted to tell you that my son says your car is his most favorite car at the meet, and likes it better than mine!" We had a good laugh and I shook the son' s hand and thanked him for coming and enjoying the cars.
Had several folks come by who wanted to talk about growing up and having a station wagon in the family and their experiences. To see all the cars at the meet, whether archival, restored, modified, or drivers, etc. plus meeting and talking with folks was well worth the trip from Texas. The SportWagon was trailered up and back and other than having to buy 4 new tires for the trailer after a blowout in Oklahoma, the 2200 mile round trip was uneventful.
Wife and I look forward to BCA in Denver in 2018 and in Oklahoma City in 2019.
Chuck
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I may have missed this somewhere but I remember a Forum breakfast at a previous meet. Is there one this year?
Thanks,
Chuck
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Final Detail:
Drove the SportWagon into the trailer this morning, front wheels went over rear wheel lifts just fine, got to the front wheel lifts, and the rear wheels engaged the rear wheel lifts. Gave it some gas and it started to climb up the lifts but the front lifts were giving more resistance due to their height. Gave it a little more gas and the rear wheels spun on the slick painted incline on the rear lifts and the car shifted to the left !
Cut the engine, climbed out the tail gate again, assessed the situation and decided I had 2" clear from side of car to rear opening frame on left side to back the car out carefully. Unhitched the cable to the rear door ramp on the trailer to give me a little breathing room.
Climbed back in through the tailgate, backed the car out carefully, no damage. I then applied stair tread non-slip 4" strips to the rear lifts. Got back in the car and drove it back in the trailer and this time it went all the way in and up on the lifts.
Re-attached rear door cable and Mission Accomplished.
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2 hours ago, jscheib said:
Chuck,
See you in WI. Maybe you should reconsider driving the wagon? It is a Buick, after all!.
John, the weather continues to be unstable between here and Brookfield so I am not going to take a chance on driving it. Besides, I would have to clean it up when I get there !!
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The saga continues
So I drove the Sportwagon into the trailer this morning, up on my new ramps without a hitch, wheel stops worked and I put the car in park, turned off the engine and opened the door and BUMP! Seems all my measuring was with the jack under the front cross member and when I roll in with the weight of the car on the front wheels on the lift ramps plus my 'mature' body weight, the door is still hitting the escape door frame by an inch after it cleared yesterday on the jack. Crawled out the tailgate again.
So, I decide if the front is elevated then I need to elevate the back wheels and see what happens. Out comes the floor jack, under the differential and up it goes 1 1/2 " (1 thicknesses of 2X material). Walk around to the escape door, open the car door and there is an inch clearance, but, with with previous experience I get up into the front seat and start to shut the door. As I close the door the bottom of it lightly rubs on the escape door frame so my weight is the culprit again. Put my foot out the door onto the trailer floor to take some weight off the car for door clearance, open the door as far as I can, which is plenty to get in and out through the escape door, and get out.
I raise the differential with the jack, put 2 pieces of 2x10 under each rear wheel, let the jack down and go check the door again. Now there is 3" clearance without me in the car and should be plenty left even with me sitting in it. Now I have to build two more lift ramps for the rear wheels! Thought about just stacking 2 - 2 x12's on each side from back to my front lift ramps but that was expensive and I did not want to secure that much wood to the trailer floor. Also, at the time was thinking I would be using my basket tie-downs on the wheels and the wood would cover my tie down tracks in the floor. So off to Home Depot to get more 2 x 10 material and make two back lifts.
Made the back lifts, installed them tonight and will try the car again in the morning and it should work fine ( I trust!). I went ahead and evaluated tie-down options and as it turns out I can't use the basket wheel tie-downs because there is not enough room remaining between the car body and the trailer side walls for me to get to each corner, finagle the straps over the wheels, and tie them down to the track. Decided to use regular tie-downs on the rear axle connected to rear 'D' rings which works well in spite of the long overhang and gas tank of the wagon. I will cross a pair of tie-downs at the front using 'J' hooks the towing drivers use in holes in the frame and connected to the 'D' rings at the front.
Sure am glad I decided to test load the car on Tuesday instead of waiting this weekend with little or no time left before we leave.
I don't intend to trailer the SportWagon very often but drive it! The trailer is mainly for my 1932 Buick and a couple of Model 'A' Fords and works great for them, no clearance problems.
Will give a report and photos when I get back from BCA.
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So, I am getting the SportWagon ready to go to Brookfield and national BCA and have decided to trailer it rather than drive it for several reasons. First and foremost the weather in the midwest has been unpredictable and nasty these past few weeks. I don't want to get caught in the middle of Missouri, Illniois or points north or south in the wagon with no protection after spending a few coins on the wagon. Second, the rebuilt engine and transmission only have 100 + miles on them and I don't have time to put another 400 breakin miles on them before we leave in less than a week.
So, I carefully drove the wagon in the 24' enclosed trailer (about 18' clear due to a cabinet inside) and checked clearances carefully. I had a large orange cone at the front to tell me when I was close to the cabinet. So, once set in the trailer, I proceed to open the driver's door and surprize! even though I have an open 'escape' door on the driver's side of the trailer to let me out of cars in the trailer, the wagon door does not clear the bottom of the escape door frame.
So, I sit there and contemplate my options on how to get out. I try to slither out the drivers door but get head and torso caught, same on passenger side. It appears the only option is turn around on front bench seat, lean over and fold down second seat, climb over front bench on to the horizontal back of the second seat, then fold third seat flat and get to the tailgate which I then opened from inside and get out!
I decided I had to come up with a solution that allowed me in and out of the car from the escape door. Knowing many before me have solved the problem with lower car doors (like Corvettes) clearing the trailer fender wells by driving up onto 2x wood material, I made some measurements to what I thought it would take to raise the car enough to open the driver's door into the escape opening. I put the floor jack under the front cross member, jacked it up, stacked three 2 x 10 pieces of wood under both front tires too get 4 1/2 " lift, let the jack down and viola! it was enough lift to open the door with at least 18" horizontal opening and enough to get my 'mature' bod in and out of the car.
I made some crude wooden 4 1/2" ramps, bolted them to the trailer floor with 1/2" bolts and tomorrow morning I will try again and see how it all works. Wish me luck.Chuck,
See you in Brookfield
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11 hours ago, Brian_Heil said:
OK Folks. we are getting close. If you have not replied to this Chat String that you are attending the PWD Dinner or sent me an email regarding the same, please post or email now. Either works. Last Call and all that sort of stuff as we set our count and table set-up/seating.
Reminder to bring cash for the Dinner as they will not do separate checks.
Also, don't forget our PWD Meeting at 3:00 - 4:30 Thursday Night before we head out to Dinner. Milwaukee Ballroom #1 at the Sheraton where we will go over Dinner and the After Tour and other (monkey) business.
Brian, please add Dianne and I to the list for the dinner. We are not bringing the 32 67S this year but will enjoy the camaraderie with the PWD group as we have at past meets.
Chuck Nixon
Fort Worth, TX
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Thanks for all the positive comments, hope to visit with many of you in Brookfield.
Chuck
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I will be taking pictures in Brookfield on the show field in the modified class. With all the bad weather hitting the midwest I have decided to trailer the Sportwagon instead of driving it. I have a 24' enclosed Pace and it will give me a sense of security if we run into high winds and wet weather or worse. When you spend a decent amount of money and lots of time on a project you would hate to see it damaged by lousy weather.
Chuck
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So the hard work is done and the 67 Buick Sportwagon GS 400 clone is ready to drive and enjoy. Newly rebuilt 400 BB and T-400 now have about 100 miles on them and so far so good. In our 95-100 degree weather the engine temperature is 190 -200 degrees, I tried the factory A/C several days ago for 3-4 miles at 30-45 MPH in urban setting going back to my house from downtown and it worked well but engine temp climbed to 210.
I spent 4 long days working at the interior shop to get all the folding seat hardware put back together using all the special nuts, bolts, screws, etc. then added seat backs, and finally put the seats and hardware back in the car with shop personnel help.
Interior Shop:- re-covered the 2nd and 3rd seats, (front bench seat and carpet already done),
- made new side and odd shaped filler panels out of a dense black board and then covered them with the correct vinyl to match the seats,
- recovered the wheel well humps and spare tire cover,
- made new carpet to go between back of front seat and up behind the second seat,
- all the flat metal pieces that are on the back of the 2nd and 3rd seats recovered in new carpet
- new carpet on all other floor panels including the storage compartment cover and side panels.
- I had previously refinished all the metal in black and had 8-10 pieces powder coated in black.
- Installed all newly refurbished seat belts from Ssnake Oyl.
- Then had the red pinstripes painted on.
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I still have some minor odds and ends to do but car should be ready for the BCA meet in Brookfield, Wisconsin July 5-8
Black is hot but sure looks good when cleaned and dusted
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Great news Brian, well deserved, Congrats
Chuck
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1921 Touring steering question
in Buick - Pre War
Posted · Edited by chuckfmtexas (see edit history)
Needs some advice on the 1921 Touring car I bought last May. I have not driven the car more than 1/2 dozen times due to other commitments and just plain busy but when I have driven it I have a problem with the steering. Turning right no problem with the steering wheel and making the turns. Turning left is another story. I can't turn more than 1/2 a turn on the steering wheel and the wheel almost locks up. You can feel it getting tighter as you turn it and then it is almost locked as you turn as far as the wheel will go.
I know this could be caused by several issues but before we go taking things apart I looked in the spout where you add steering box lubricant and it is dry as far as I can down the hole. So I am thinking maybe the box could be half full or lower and needs lubricant. I have not researched all my 1921 technical info but thought I would ask for opinions here first. If it does need lubricant, again without researching the manuals what weight oil would I pour into the steering box?
Appreciate all advice and opinions.
Chuck