RoadShark

I don't think they're a match. The wire diameter is different. Seven vs. six coils too.

I don't have a good pic yet and the engine is out of the car at the moment. I'll do my best to get some measurements when I can. Here's a pic of the rears that were in the car next to the new Delcos. I'm assuming the ones I took out were the originals but can't be 100% sure. Next is a pic of the car, but it's not on a flat surface. I've replaced the rear body mounts since then too. Those are 235-75/15 tires.

I did this tailgate by outlining the letters with 1/8" masking tape and then masking to that. It took a while...

I'm certainly less concerned with originality than some - at least as it pertains to parts that can easily be swapped - so I went to Rock Auto for my springs. They have a lot of data there on each spring. Wire diameter, free height, etc. I ordered AC Delco Heavy Duty for my '67. I've only replaced the rears so far, but I like the result.

Wow! Something close to New England. That'd be a nice ride, assuming my Riv is road worthy. >shuts off computer…runs to garage<

1963 Buick Riviera with 401 Nail Head - $3800 (Springfield Taxachusetts) https://nh.craigslist.org/cto/5798270997.html 1971 Buick Riviera GS - $15000 (west barnstable) https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/cto/5808144844.html 1968 Buick Riviera - price reduced - $12500 (West Springfield) https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/5771334435.html

The image of that thing rolling around the yard is like something out of Mad Max.

Looks great. Did he rebuild the booster also?

LOL.

Good thing it's a windows-open sort of day...

I had a can of Rustoleum primer slowly stop spraying yesterday with half the can still full. New nozzle did nothing. I put the can in hot water. Sprayed like a champ after that.

I'm putting an LT1 starter on mine. It was pricey, but available at the local parts store. To do it right I had to get bolts with a stepped knurl from GM to position it correctly. It's about half the weight and size. I'm going to HEI, if you stick with the points you may have to play games with the solenoid. Just wanted to echo others that if you're contacting the starter at full lock than either your mechanic is suspect or something with your car isn't right.

Assuming the car is stored somewhere dry and you don't drive it in the rain a lot, and based on what you said, I would embrace the character.

TH400 was used by AM General in military trucks, Avanti, Excalibur, Ferrari, Holden, Jaguar, Jeep, Rolls-Royce, and Volvo truck. It was too good...

Anybody need a driver's side quarter panel?

Appreciate the pics - especially for those of us unable to attend.

One tip with poly bushings: I had polygraphite bushings all around in my daily-driven '68 Biscayne. I took powdered graphite that I got from the hardware store and mixed it with the thick silicone grease they give you for assembly. Never had a squeak. My Chevelle, that had regular polyurethane bushings and no graphite, squeaked so loud it raised eyebrows. I believe the lower rear arms are common with A-bodies. I haven't measured or confirmed this. If true, you would have a large selection of boxed arms to chose from. GM sure believed in boxing the arms and did so from the factory on some models. I put tubular arms with poly bushings in. That way I can put my stock arms on the shelf. None of the mods I have done to my car can't be undone. I've kept all of the stock parts. Fresh rubber bushing in the front will probably be a very noticeable improvement. I'm putting a new stock-ratio Lares steering box in. I probably should have went with a quicker ratio, but I would imagine the updated box will be a welcome change from the tired original. I'm not expecting to autocross either, however I do enjoy some spirited driving on the backroads here, and they are twisty-turny with plenty of bumps. Regardless of what others have said, that 3/4" sway bar is woefully undersized for maximizing enjoyment of the latest radial tires. The windowed, rubber rear track bar bushings allow for a lot of body-to frame movement before compressing. All of this is fine if you want that signature Buick ride, but this thing looks like a big luxury sports car to me and I want a little "sport" in my car.

Stiffer springs and poly bushings will add to the harshness. The sway bar may add a little when you hit a bump with one tire and not the other, but this is not a huge bar, and I didn't notice anything. The gas shocks change the character of the ride considerably without adding "harshness". They add an increased sense of control. I don't know how else to describe it. The poly bushings in the rear track or pan hard rod won't contribute to harshness, but they will prevent the rear of the body from moving relative to the frame. I think they're worth it.

I've only done the rear suspension so far. PST has polygraphite bushings for the rear. I put in new Delco HD springs, tubular lower arms, and Bilstein shocks. You can read about it here: http://forums.aaca.org/topic/263540-new-guy-new-to-me-67-gs/?page=1 For the front I've only put the Addco sway bar and Bilstein shocks. Shocks all around made a big difference. I'm used to 7/8" front sway bars on old GM cars, but the Riv's measured 3/4"! You can almost twist it by hand. The 1 1/8" Addco bar is a big improvement. I plan on doing all the front bushings, new HD springs, a new steering box, and a new alignment next. Despite PST saying that "all of our bushings kits are available in rubber or polygraphite", the fronts for the Riv are only available in rubber.

Thanks for the tips. My passenger side manifold has cracked all the way through. It's two pieces now. I can't put it off any longer….

I'm getting ready to pull the cracked manifolds off my '67 and put the shorty headers on. After looking at the rusted bolts (and the likelihood that I'll have some broken ones to deal with), I'm leaning towards pulling the engine. Can I pull the engine with the hood on? I've read that one of the bolts is really tricky to install with the engine in the chassis too. Planning on replacing the steering box and pump at the same time. Probably pull the heater box too since I think there's a mouse nest...

A top-notch restoration in a spectacular color! I'd like to see more pics as well...

Very interested in this topic, as my door panels and dash will need a good clean soon. What do you guys use to protect the vinyl after you clean it?

Just put the cab on the '67. The '66 was my "learn to paint" project.