Ttotired

Fiteck make exactly what you are talking about, they call it their "command centre" The fuel pump you have is all you need for a carbie. Mount it near the fuel tank as low as possible and unless you really like the noise it makes. be sure to rubber mount it. As for wiring, I strongly suggest its wired through an oil pressure switch so it wont work unless there is oil pressure. If you don't know why, just think what would happen if the car fell over

What you have is a lot of work, what you don't have is any money for some time to come Cool car, look forward to seeing it done I don't believe any car manufacturer ever made an actual parts list as such, your best bet would be a parts book, but I would just lay everything out, get lots of pictures and try reassembling it

Not really keen on stainless bolts for that reason, they seem soft, very likely to bind (especially stainless on stainless) and a nightmare to drill out

I think you have answered your own question mate Looks welded to me. Looks like you have some welding to do anyway, so cut it out if you want (I wouldn't)

Left hand bits wont work for this unless you drill from the back (staked) side because the screw had been staked. Drill from the head side, that way (as said above) it will hopefully catch and wind (tighten) itself out much the same as a left hand bit, but cheaper

As an auto sparky, I have always removed them using a tap and installed using an old engine valve. I have had ones I have had to chisel out, but nothing special used to do it, an old screw driver works. I have never had the grease method work for me but I wouldn't do it just because of the mess (sparky grease allergy )

If you will take the advice of an old (er) tradesman, do not try and pursue this machine shop. I don't know if they did something wrong or not and even if they did, all you will achieve is more bitterness (win or loose) and more money and time down the toilet. The other engineering/machine shops wont back you up for at least 2 reasons, 1 It will cost them time and money and potentially their reputation if the case falls and 2 most trades sometimes borrow from competitors to get out of a jamb occasionally. Most auto trades are rather small and gossip travels, both good and bad and do not be surprised if you find yourself on an industry black list. No one wants too, or will deal with a litigator. Word of mouth can kill a business if enough people are getting crappy work from the company, it wont be there long

A growler is used for finer wire armatures such as generator armatures (as pictured) The effect that a growler has on a starter armature that has much heavier and few turns is negligible. The growler effect is to induce a voltage in the windings. If there is a short between the windings (coils) it will make the hacksaw blade vibrate. The voltage induced in the windings can also be used to test for open circuits between the com and the windings by using the hacksaw blade to short out the com bars and observing the spark. The voltage produced in the starter windings is too low and usually are only 1 turn (coil) Best test on a starter armature is a visual. If one or more coils is/are black, bin it. Also, looking at the arcing on the com bars can also be an indication of the armatures condition We also used to use a 240V series test light to test them to ground. If shorted, it would make the light come on. If you wernt watching what you were doing, it would kick you like a mule

Bid all you like. There is no legal requirement to buy if you win. All it gives you is the right to first look and a top price. Go look at the car, not how you thought it was, you can walk or haggle

Hmm on the link thing, I just tried it and got the vigi thing as well this time? Mr Earl, would you kill the links again please Summit racing, powergen is what its about, sure everyone knows google

The link I posted is summit racing, only suspicious thing there is the make you spend to much because they have everything I checked the link, its fine https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pwm-82051/overview/ With the htts removed, when I clicked the link, then it became suspicious, it came up with something called viglink, some other shopping site? http://www.viglink.com/shop/merchants Thanks for keeping an eye on things Mr Earl

Genny bits are getting really hard to find, but heres an alternative that some of you may not know about, they have been around for a while now and are about 1/2 the price they started out at. ://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/pwm-82051/overview/

Your trying to screw a motor together on the cheap? Why are you worried about timing chains? If you had one that was working before, it will work again

Cha Ching, Chrisine made these models very desirable, which = expensive, but I am sure you know that Try the forwardlook network here http://forwardlook.net/forums/search/query.asp?action=search&collapsethreads=1&searchforumid=all&keywords=&author=&days=0 Good luck

So much more than that Consider valve timing, engine speed in relation to actual time the valve is open ect ect Larger valves aid in getting the gasses in and out (flowing) Smaller valves give higher gas speed, but less volume, kind of like a garden hose to a fire hose. You can get your garden hose to squirt water as far as a fire hose, but it will never deliver as much water. Of coarse actual engine displacement also determines how much gas it can actually pump, but if the valve is to small, at higher rpm, the valve will not allow the actual rated amount of gas to enter the cylinder, purely because there is not enough time for the gasses to get in and out.

With the others on this Why buy a broken engine to fix a broken engine? The work that has been done on your engine cant/wont be all bad, perhaps spending a little money to get a professional to check and diagnose the problem with it will save you much more money than starting a fresh rebuild. Hot tanking requires full did assembly of the engine. Any white metal (cam bearings) must be replaced and all the oil galleries will still need to be cleaned afterwards. What I am getting at here is your current engine has some sort of issue, but will require much less work than rebuilding another one. Don't be pigheaded and think you are going to save plenty of money doing it yourself, much of what the "home mechanic" knows has come from expensive, self created, expensive disasters, listening to the advice of other "home mechanics" Take it to a shop and get their opinion on the engine, and if not happy, take it to another one You will probably find the $500 your thinking of spending on another engine will go a long way towards repairing whatever is wrong in your engine By the way, before anyone yells at me, I am a tradesman auto electrician and I deal with the misguided advice and subsequent necessary repairs required a lot. Most of the advice you have been given is spot on here (advising you to fix the one you have). The worse thing you can do is throw your arms up in the air and say f&ck it, I am going to start again

Most of the time, I will offer encouragement to people having a go at car restoration, but car restoration basically requires a combination of 2 things, knowledge and money. The more you have of one, the less you need of the other. I read the entire post and without being able to see/ hear and feel the problem with the car, all anyone can offer is a guess. I see you have had it at a mechanical shop (good idea) and they have told you it has an issue, they have had the advantage of seeing/ hearing and feeling the problem, their diagnosis will be far better than the guessing that can only be offered on the net. I assume they could not get it running either or you didn't ask them to do so? Guessing is an expensive way to fix a car, it is possible to walk someone through an engine diagnosis step by step, but that takes a really long time. Getting back to my first sentence, I am getting the idea that you are inexperienced and not rolling in money, educating yourself on the basics of what an engine needs to run and how to properly test it all will save you money and will cost nothing but time. All forms of diagnosis is a logical step by step process that checks and eliminates causes of a problem and unless you are very familiar with whats going on, you cant skip steps or dismiss them Good luck, but if its all to hard to learn and/or you cant afford to fix it, then best advice is to sell it and buy a car more suitable. A hobby that causes you big problems no longer is a hobby and turns into a burden

When I saw the post title, I went "OH NO, some idiot cut the roof off a wagon" Put them together and sell separately Location (although, thats not that important to me being in Australia) and pictures help a lot Good luck with your sale

Simple mate, she's stuffed If your not sure how to diagnose it, best take it to someone who does. It can be many things and internet guessing games wont fix it A leak down test (as above) can help to diagnose it, but to save fingers ect, you must do this test with the engine locked. Air pressure put in a cylinder with the piston at TDC is pretty much the same as what the normal firing cycle of an engine does, it will want to turn and it will be fast

Larry is 100% correct, but I will also add this, The best way to get a rough idea of value is to look at cars from the same era and look at their condition and their price. You have to look objectively, if your car and their car were parked next to each other, which one would most people choose, then look at the prices (and age of the add) Sentimental value, while may provide a nice story to a buyer, does not add to the value of the car You really do need to put a picture up though (might find a buyer for one thing) but if its a rusty old thing that's sat out in the open for years or a stalled restoration project, it might not be much or if its a low mileage, un restored gem, it could be worth a bit more, Also, wether its a desirable model, not all are. Many things and the biggest is the buyer Most people have an idea on how much they want for something without even asking (as you have), If someone offered you $5.00 for it, would you sell it? If not, then you must know how much you would sell it for. If your price is low, good for the buyer and you as you both have a happy transaction, if your high, it wont sell.

I like going to shows with my car so people can see it I don't show my car to "please the judges" I show it to please me and whoever wants to look at it and like it What is correct is what suits the theme of your car, which means, if your trying to make it look like it just drove out the factory, then painted/unpainted with or without the paint daub or that overspray pattern might be important if its important to you, not the anal retentive My cars wont win concourse prizes

Black primer. But not rattle can Could look like this

You havnt considered a second hand one if you cant get a rebuilt one? If you can get one, just get it fitted and off you go, and then you can get the original one fixed at your leisure

Don't agree with that!!!!! The amount of cars that are restored and sold only to have massive problems passed on to the new owner. I have seen quite a few cars that have been imported here to Australia that look awesome until it goes up in the air and you see them better inside and out. A lot end up being re done. Whatever quote you get, make sure you can double it, as everyone has said, hidden or in expected things will crop up. As well as in planned expenses, like, "this bit broke and we need another one" and the big killer, look at that nice paint and you want to put that horrible pitted thing back on (did that to myself) I must have spent over 5K on chrome on my dodge and it still wasn't all of it. I do agree with giving the shop the whole car. You cant gap a car without the glass ect in the doors, you need the bumpers and trim for trial fits ect and the big one, you give then 1/2 a car then they have deniability for lost components. Drive it in, Drive it out

I run a repair business and I cant always offer a "flat rate" repair either, well, actually I can What you do is think of the worse case scenario with what your going to repair, work out how much to fix it, then add a bit more for just in case And there is your flat rate repair, but if you want to be fairer to your customers (and actually have customers) you explain that repair cost varies depending on the damage found and the repairs required, so it might be this much, or it might be this much, bank on the most pricey and you might get change if its not that bad By the way, the wear on the teeth on that pitman shaft looks impressive