this_is_greg

While tracking down a fuel line leak I found the spalsh guard on the drivers side was very rusty. The parts manual calls this the engine dust pan. This part bolts to the frame and extends over to the oil pan. Looking to buy one in good condition. Sorry about the picture, it's the best I can do right now. I'll try to get it out for better pictures. Also, what I believe is the original fuel line has a tiny leak. It looks like the fuel line is one piece from the tank to the fuel pump. It follows the frame rail to the front, across below the radiator, then along the fuel rail to the fuel pump. Unfortunately the leak is at the 90 degree bend (yellow arrow in picture) where the line goes across the front of the truck. How much disassembly is required to remove the fuel line. It doesn't look too easy to get it out, and a new one back in, in one piece. It gurgles when running and drips after shutdown for a short period. It leaves about a 10" spot on the cardboard I laid down.

Thanks for the info Alan. This truck was my wife's grampa's farm truck until 1971. It was parked from 1972 to 2015. We pulled it out of the tool shed in 2015 and got her back on the road. Trying to keep as Grampa had it. Someone recommended fresh waterproof grease to see if that will stop the leak. What are your thoughts on that? Also, where can I get a rebuild kit for the water pump?

So, I pulled the old girl out of the shop today to prep for the first car show of the season next weekend. I see the water pump is leaking now. Can this water pump be removed without pulling the radiator? On a seperate note, what is the correct battery hold/tie down. This truck currently doesn't have anything to hold the battery in the tray. Is there a strap or clamp that is missing, or is this stock? Thanks is advance!

Our 1938 RC has the red indicator light in the switch. Also has slightly different door handles/cranks inside. Based on the SN it was manufactured late in 1938 model year.

That was in good shape. The seal just wore out. The truck sat for 40+ years. The inner axel seal and pinion started leaking after 200 miles. I suspect more seals will start leaking as miles are added.

I looked for a long time for an axel puller, couldn't find one. I modified an slide hammer and gently pulled it out.

The inner seal is towards the end of the axel. See 38rcdodge's image in posts above. This was much, much easier than I anticipated. I do have the 1938 Dodge truck service manual...followed those instructions. Have a seal puller and a seal install tool handy. Mine were both homemade. The axel went back in easy, the bearing cone had to be pressed in. The end play on the 1938 RC is 0.003 to 0.008". This is set with shims and held in place by the brake backplate. I also changed the pinion seal since I had the truck up on blocks. Greg

Thanks for this information. My outter seal is torn and I guess the inner seal in not good either, hence the dif oil leak at the brakes . I pulled out the service manual to see how to replace the inner seal. I have to pull the axle, and the bearing is pressed on. Seems like a bigger job than I originally thought. Anyone on here do this repair that can send me a private message? Thanks!

The rear axle oil seal is leaking on my 1938 Dodge RC pickup. There is differential oil leaking past the seal. My question is, does the outer bearing get lub from the different oil or should it be greased like the front wheel bearings? Based on the parts catalog I have, there is an 'inner axel drive shaft oil washer' between the outer bearing and differential bearing adjuster. It's not called a seal. See item #18 in image. Is this to keep differential oil from the outer bearing? Looking for advise on how deep I have to go to repair the leak. Thanks in advance. Greg

Can someone tell what these cast numbers represent on my 1938 Dodge Brothers Series RC pickup mean? I think the 12132 is a casting number and the C8 maybe date code or core/mold number? I'm asking because I have an opportunity to buy a similar gear box but the numbers are 12132 and C10. Thanks in advance.

Vic, Spinneyhill, Thanks for this information. The main reason for pulling the gearbox is it does not hold oil for more than several days. I figured since I had it out to replace seals and gaskets I would rebuild it. When setting on the ground the wheel has more than a quarter turn of play after the adjustments I made earlier. Before the adjustments it was 1/2+ turn play. Is that much free play normal? I was not able to inspect under the car when doing this, but previous inspections I think all the other parts are pretty tight. Attached are the removal and installation instructions from the 1938 service manual. Vic, does your puller look/work t]like this? Did you have trouble removing the steering gear arm?? Reference fig. 1105 in picture.

Vic, thanks for this information. As stated above, Spinneyhill said the toughest part will probably be removing the steering wheel. Any advise on that? This truck is all original except the plywood floorboard, and I'm sure some parts are not as tough as they were 75-80 years ago. Last year I made adjustments to get the play out. It helped somewhat, but the truck is still a handful. I did put in new tie rod ends, etc and had the front end aligned, so I think the play is from the gear box. If the gears are worn, are they available anywhere? Best Regards, Greg

I cannot see casting or PN's on the gearbox. Attached are two pictures I was able to take. Tough to get good pictures. According to the parts book I have the gearbox assembly should be part number 582839 and the housing should be part number 567172. I have the 1938 Dodge Truck shop manual which has step-by-step instructions for the removal of the gearbox. Has anyone removed and rebuilt this in a 1938 pickup? What should I watch out for, what may break easily? Thanks in advance!

I'll check for a casting # tomorrow. The truck is put away for the winter and may be difficult to see.

I'm looking to buy a steering gear box for my 1938 Dodge Series RC pickup. Anyone have one for sale?

I haven't gotten underneath for a close look, just stuck the camera under it to snap a photo of the drip. This is what I found.

Thanks Alan. Mine hasn't been rebuilt. It appears someone welded the two halves together. Not sure why someone would do that. Maybe thought that's how you stopped a leak???

What oil is recommended for the rear-end on my 1938 Dodge RC half ton pickup? The manual states "Powerful Extreme Pressure Gear Lubricants design specifically for Hypoid Gear Lubrication ....SAE No. 90." Will modern 90w gear lube be ok this is old truck? Thanks in advance. Greg

Thanks for all these leads tripwiire. I will check them all. How did you ifnd so many??

Thanks for the lead. I'll check it out.

I am searching for a 1971 (may consider '72 or '73) Cadillac Fleetwood. Looking for a weekend driver in very good/excellent condition so no projects please. Post here with details.

Thanks Keiser31. Is it for car, truck, or either?

Can anyone identify the year and cars this hubcap is from? I found it in an old barn. I thought it went with my 1938 Dodge Brothers 1/2 ton pick-up, but it doesn't. I don't see any numbers on it anywhere. Thanks, Greg

I had to replace the outer seal on the rear axle. The service manual explains how to lubricate the bearing through the axle bearing oil hole. It then says the rear axle may be drained with a suction gun through the filler hole. What lubricant are they talking about draining? What grease do you recommend to lube the rear bearing? I don't have bearing grease for my grease gun. Do they actually make it? Thanks in advance. 1938 Dodge RC rear axle lubrication.pdf

To the person who emailed/messaged me yesterday. I lost your message. Please send me a new message with your email. Thanks, Greg