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About this_is_greg

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  1. Vic, Spinneyhill, Thanks for this information. The main reason for pulling the gearbox is it does not hold oil for more than several days. I figured since I had it out to replace seals and gaskets I would rebuild it. When setting on the ground the wheel has more than a quarter turn of play after the adjustments I made earlier. Before the adjustments it was 1/2+ turn play. Is that much free play normal? I was not able to inspect under the car when doing this, but previous inspections I think all the other parts are pretty tight. Attached are the removal and installation instructions from the 1938 service manual. Vic, does your puller look/work t]like this? Did you have trouble removing the steering gear arm?? Reference fig. 1105 in picture.
  2. Vic, thanks for this information. As stated above, Spinneyhill said the toughest part will probably be removing the steering wheel. Any advise on that? This truck is all original except the plywood floorboard, and I'm sure some parts are not as tough as they were 75-80 years ago. Last year I made adjustments to get the play out. It helped somewhat, but the truck is still a handful. I did put in new tie rod ends, etc and had the front end aligned, so I think the play is from the gear box. If the gears are worn, are they available anywhere? Best Regards, Greg
  3. I cannot see casting or PN's on the gearbox. Attached are two pictures I was able to take. Tough to get good pictures. According to the parts book I have the gearbox assembly should be part number 582839 and the housing should be part number 567172. I have the 1938 Dodge Truck shop manual which has step-by-step instructions for the removal of the gearbox. Has anyone removed and rebuilt this in a 1938 pickup? What should I watch out for, what may break easily? Thanks in advance!
  4. I'll check for a casting # tomorrow. The truck is put away for the winter and may be difficult to see.
  5. I'm looking to buy a steering gear box for my 1938 Dodge Series RC pickup. Anyone have one for sale?
  6. I haven't gotten underneath for a close look, just stuck the camera under it to snap a photo of the drip. This is what I found.
  7. Thanks Alan. Mine hasn't been rebuilt. It appears someone welded the two halves together. Not sure why someone would do that. Maybe thought that's how you stopped a leak???
  8. What oil is recommended for the rear-end on my 1938 Dodge RC half ton pickup? The manual states "Powerful Extreme Pressure Gear Lubricants design specifically for Hypoid Gear Lubrication ....SAE No. 90." Will modern 90w gear lube be ok this is old truck? Thanks in advance. Greg
  9. Thanks for all these leads tripwiire. I will check them all. How did you ifnd so many??
  10. I am searching for a 1971 (may consider '72 or '73) Cadillac Fleetwood. Looking for a weekend driver in very good/excellent condition so no projects please. Post here with details or email Greg at
  11. Thanks Keiser31. Is it for car, truck, or either?
  12. Can anyone identify the year and cars this hubcap is from? I found it in an old barn. I thought it went with my 1938 Dodge Brothers 1/2 ton pick-up, but it doesn't. I don't see any numbers on it anywhere. Thanks, Greg
  13. I had to replace the outer seal on the rear axle. The service manual explains how to lubricate the bearing through the axle bearing oil hole. It then says the rear axle may be drained with a suction gun through the filler hole. What lubricant are they talking about draining? What grease do you recommend to lube the rear bearing? I don't have bearing grease for my grease gun. Do they actually make it? Thanks in advance. 1938 Dodge RC rear axle lubrication.pdf
  14. To the person who emailed/messaged me yesterday. I lost your message. Please send me a new message with your email. Thanks, Greg