maok

This should inspire you;

I believe it was 1932 when the takeover occurred. They kept building bodies for non-GM makes for bit after this date, maybe 'til '35'ish.

The pump needs to be near the fuel tank and preferably at or below the bottom of the tank. I have been using a cheap ebay sourced Chinese brand of electric pump for years. They fail when they run dry then over heat - the fuel flowing through them keeps them cool.

Also, 1934 CW Airflow had a single piece curved windscreen

Its his/her item, so he/she can put whatever price on it, if it sells or not is the will of the free market.

If the coil is getting too hot to touch, check that the points haven't closed up. Too much heat in the coil suggests that too much current is running through it.

If its 3.5" diameter then '29 onwards, 4.5" is before '29

FYI, the thread size of the front hub is different to the rear hub. Well, it was on my '28 series 62, most likely the case with the series 72

The rear wheels do, not the front.

I don't think its masonite, it's more like cardboard but with a more masonite like texture and feel. It may even have asbestos fibres in it.....😬 This will be a challenging job for my auto trimmer to sort out, most areas have their unique shape to conform to. Luckily on one of my parts cars the quarter areas next to the rear seats still have their shape, not twisted and bent out of shape.

I would have thought Chrysler/DeSoto would have described this as a 2 door sedan . The coupe version had a small dinky seats in the back and a hatch for the trunk where the spare tyre belong.

Imo, the vintage category is a little narrow, should be 1920 to 1939 between the wars.

Actually Terry, Pre-1919 is veteran 1919 - 1930 is Vintage 1931 - 1949 is post vintage 1950 - 1969 is classics

Here is a better angle of mine, be careful you may fall in love with it. Especially if you go for a ride in one, nothing like it ever made...😉

Most years and their respective models look similar from all of the makers, few exceptions and the Airflow surely is the very unique shape;

The important thing is that you have appropriate fuses in place. Simplest method is to have an inline fuse along the power wire for each device. Alternatively, re-wire all the circuits via a fuse block.

You are over thinking it, a new modern higher amp hour battery won't supply more amps, the circuit will determine how much is drawn from the battery and or generator/alternator.

Yes, the taillight and the hub cap gives away that it is a Chrysler, probably earlier than a '28, the rear spring shackle is different to my former '28 Chrysler series 62

Pull apart a 12 volt jump starter and stick a 6 volt battery in it. I'm sure there is a bit more than that but hey why not give it a go.

Looks awesome, well done. I did similar to my airflow dash surround s but instead of real wood I had mine hydro dipped.

How about keeping a fully charged 6-volt battery in the trunk with jumper leads as a backup?

I assumed he meant 1000volt rated diode, which would be an overkill.

By any chance, would you still have this clock?

I've installed 3 one wire alternators, easy and work well, revving initially is no problem, pulling the choke for fast idle does the trick. Or just drive off and it will kick in as soon as you have driven a few metres.

I hope it didn't confuse you opening your bonnet/hood next to that '36 Airflow...😜