Jump to content

BuickBob49

Members
  • Posts

    343
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by BuickBob49

  1. Jeff, Thanks! I found that the code stamped on top of the carb is 7-69A, not 7-69. BuickBob49
  2. Glad you like the car. It is a lot of fun. Here's a photo of the dash on the 39 Roadmaster. What a wonderful presentation. I also included a photo of the 39 Roadmaster with my 49 Super in my mechanic's driveway. I've had the 49 Super since 1978--my first car. What a difference ten years made in styling! Also, they drive much differently from one another. The full-width cabin and lower posture make the 49 Super hunker down a bit when compared with the 39 Roadmaster. But the 39 Roadmaster really has a boulevard ride, and it is smooth even at 60-65 mph..
  3. I was wrong about the number at the base of the carburetor. My mechanic tells me it looks like 385018.
  4. Here are some photos of my 39 Roadmaster and the left mirror. (I took the car out yesterday in the rain and the mirror is a bit dirty.) Sorry for the missed words in my last email. Doing them by phone has drawbacks. These mirrors, with their Streamline scoring, really echo the design details in the windshield wiper mounts and the door handles on the 39s.
  5. I meant to say that the left-side mirror on my 39 Roadmaster is fine. The right -side mirror is mount at the same height, but is too low for me to see if I'm the driver's seat. I may try to move both mirrors up the window posts a bit to see if that helps. Right now they are just above the top door hinge.
  6. I have nearly identical side mirrors as Las Vegas Dave's on my 1939 Roadmaster 81. The only difference is that the arms have Streamline Moderne horizontal banding to match the mirrors. They were on the car when I got it two years ago. Also, the lenses are tinted, probably to lessen glare from headlights/driving lights coming up behind you at night. Very period. Very cool! The one downside is that the mirrors are probably mounted too low. The right-side mirror is useless.
  7. Where do I find a bill of material? All I know is that it is an AAV-167 #7-69. I recall that the number on the base of the carb is 380225. Thanks!
  8. Somehow, the fast idle rod for the carb on my 1949 Super went missing. (It is still a big mystery as to how it vanished.) I am looking for a replacement rod. The carb is a Stromberg AAV-167. Do fast idle rods from other Strombergs work on this carb? Or do I need to hunt down one for this specific carb? Thanks!
  9. We did a post mortem on the failed water pump. Whoever rebuilt last time didn't do a very good job--parts missing.
  10. Yesterday, my mechanic's assistant followed the manual's instructions and pulled the radiator out from the top. It is now at the radiator shop for repair. I'm still puzzled about having a catastrophic failure like this. On my 49 Super, I've had the pump leak through the weep hole, so I replaced it. This time on the 39 it was different. We did replace the belt recently on the 39. That might have accounted for some strain on the pump bearing that ultimately led to a failure.
  11. Thanks for all the advice! This was David Corbin's car. I did some additional rearch on this topic in the Forum. In one thread on cooling, a writer noted that Dave installed a custom shroud around the fan on the radiator to improve air flow. It is still in place. I hope that we can still have success in sliding out the radiator without removing the front sheetmetal. Otherwise, we'll need to follow Plan B. I had the car towed to my mechanic's garage. I can't look at it until the weekend to determine our strategy.
  12. The water pump bearing on my 1939 Roadmaster failed today. The fan pierced the radiator. I need to repair the radiator. The 1939 shop manual suggests that I can remove the radiator without taking apart the grille and front sheetmetal. Is this so? Otherwise, the job is much more complicated. Thanks!
  13. I have an NOS muffler for a Packard on my 1949 Super. It is a couple of inches shorter than the OEM Buick muffler, but otherwise the same. Price was reasonable, too, from a local parts collector.
  14. My 1949 Model 51 is from Flint. (The frame number being with "1.") It has a painted dash plate.
  15. The e-brake arm on my 1949 model 51 is medium-light gray. The data plate is body color, Verde Green, like the rest of the firewall and the exterior of the car. I've owned the car for 38 years. I'm the second owner. The car is original unrestored.
  16. The engine vibration in my 39 Roadmaster is also at a certain rpm. And it is evident in first and second gears, but not as noticeable because of the upshifts. I will talk with my mechanic about the procedures outlined in the 1940 manual. Thanks for this very good discussion!
  17. I have similar problems with my 39 Roadmaster 320. I thought it was lumpy old tires. I took care of that with radials. Some change. Smooth when coasting from 50+. The engine was rebuilt before I got the car. So I don't know about the pistons, except that a mechanical engineer did the work. We rebuilt the trans with NOS gears last fall. And we had the clutch redone. But I still have vibrations. Were they new or old vibrations? We replaced motor mounts and trans mounts a few weeks ago. The vibrations are now only at 40-45 mph and at a certain rev. Beyond 45 the car sings. 60-70 is great--still have pedal. It all may come back to an unbalanced flywheel/clutch assembly. A chore to address it. Live with it? Your thoughts?
  18. Buick used tube shocks in 1938, but went back to lever shocks in 1939.
  19. Want to buy maroon plastic inserts for two front wing window cranks for 1939 Roadmaster. NOS or repro.
  20. The 2E has 620 cranking amps; the 3EH has 875 cranking amps.
  21. Your 38 probably takes a 2E. They are expensive. I have a 3EH in my 39 Roadmaster and in my 49 Super. They are a bit taller and wider, but fit the rack and hardware. They also have quite a bit more cranking amps and are less expensive to purchase. I get mine through a local tire store.
  22. I'm waiting for a "Roadmaster Limited." Very low production.
  23. As I understood it, the front wheel bearings were larger on the early 1940s 90 series cars. Consequently, the dust caps are taller and don't clear the hubcaps used on smaller series with 16-inch wheels. The 90 series cars need deeper hubcaps.
  24. Dynaflash8, I would be interested in two front engine mount cores for my 39 Roadmaster. This is David Corbin's car and I'd like to cruise with it at highway speeds without bad vibrations. My name includes "49" because my other Buick is an unrestored '49 Super 51 that I've owned for 38 years--my first car. Thanks. BuickBob49
  25. I am looking for cores for the front engine mounts for my 1939 Roadmaster. Both Bob's and Steele need my cores to revulcanize. It takes at least three weeks and I can't send mine in and then occupy my mechanic's lift with my car for that long. Does anyone have some good cores that I could buy and send to Steele for revulcanization? The 1939 shop manual says that the front mounts for all 1939 Buicks are the same except that the rubber on those for the 80 and 90 series is denser. Is that so? Would mount cores for smaller series work for larger series cars? My mechanic tells me that the part numbers for front and rear mounts for my car are 1310600 and 1310602. I'm not sure which are the front mounts.
×
×
  • Create New...