70sWagoneers

Was the positive cable vinyl or cloth covered?

1937 Buick Special 40 Trunkback Sedan Hello, I'd like to replace the autozone "replacement" battery cables on my car. The cables are incorrect and I suspect undersized. First of all, does anyone know what gauge the positive cable is? I'd like to use 2/0 as long as everything else looks factory correct. Is the 3/8" ring terminal to the starter bare copper or tinned copper (guessing bare)? Is the battery to chassis ground a cable or a strap like the starter to chassis ground strap? I would like to know if someone can show how the positive cable is routed from battery to starter as from the factory. As of now it is zip tied to the battery tray, then runs thru a frame brace hole and into the passenger box frame before shooting out perpendicular to the starter. As it is run now, it is about 60" long. If I look on Bob's Automobilia, their cable is 53" so perhaps my routing is incorrect. And lastly did '37 have a battery hold-down? Ive got the cover but just a bungee as a hold-down. I'll probably order from Rhode Island Wiring because I've used them a couple times before. I will also assemble the parts myself. So, in general, I'd like any info or pictures of the original positive and negative battery cables I can get. Thanks James C.

Well, its back together, it spins, and it doesnt make noise... so I'm alright for now. Seperating the driveshaft from the pinion shaft was the hardest thing. I hung the assembly from a forklift with a bearing splitter and used a oxy-acetylene. When it had some heat, i picked the whole thing up and slammed it down on the bearing splitter. Brutal; I know. I replaced the pin with mild steel I turned down a couple of thou less than the hole. Replaced all the bearings which I found one of each of all four from different vendors (Bob's wants about $100 per bearing, I found em about $25 each). I made my own carrier bearing wrench. I set it up with the original set of pinion shims and about 0.006" backlash and hoped for the best. There was plenty more I WANTED to do but I tend to overdo things. Thanks to everyone that helped. If I can answer any questions, let me know Thanks James C

What is the "brush" type thing lower down in the steering column referred to as? For a 37 Special.

Well, my transmission terminology is lacking but the sliding plates that the lever moves do not stay in place and in my case when you lift the lever back of the top of the trans to see what the heck is wrong, a chunk of spring falls into the bottom of the trans. Thanks kookie, that looks just right. Too bad I already bought a 6pack minimum order from a spring supplier. Hah. Jokes on me again.

1937 Buick Special 40 Somehow I broke the spring on the bottom of the shift lever. Anyone have any experience with procuring a replacement spring? I haven't messed with it yet; I just broke it and had to walk away. Thanks James C

Ive almost got everything ready to reassemble. Any advice on the 3 set screws that lock the pinion collar in place? Im guessing the tapered part of the screws pushes the pinion collar forward and i just tighten all 3 evenly until "snug". Thanks

1937 Buick Special 40 My transmission leaks like a sieve and I would like to replace the gaskets while Ive got the rear end out. Ive got the kit from Bob's Automobilia. Can anyone advise me on how many gaskets there are to replace and if I'll run into any common issues or troubles while I'm in there. Thanks James C

1937 Buick Special 40 Im replacing my pinion bearings and the pinion nut chipped out where it was staked when I took it off. I need some help finding a replacement. The diameter of the threads on the shaft measures 1.150" and the threads inside the nut measure 1.000". And the thread pitch is 20. So I believe I'm looking for a 1-1/8x20 nut. Which I dont see at all on the internet so far. Anyone have any leads or know anyone to call? If theres no chance of replacement I'll just use some blue loctite on the original nut. Thanks James C

Mine was put together real well! After a couple of sessions of propane and a brass drift i switched to oxy acetylene. I hung the assembly from a forklift with the pinion up and a brearing seperator against the shoulder on the nut. Eventually I started to manually slam the driveshaft downward after i heated the driveshaft splines almost dull red. I went ape on it. The nut is toast so if anyone can recommend a good replacement or the correct search terms please let me now. And perhaps torque specs. But Ive got the bearings off! Thanks everyone James C

The electrolysis work great if you can keep the tank clean. Ive noticed if the tank is free of debris and the electrodes are clean, I get bare metal. As the tank gets dirtier and the sacrificial metal electrodes coat over, the black magnetite coating takes over.

So you hammered on the bearings toward the pinion? I grabbed the pinion nut in the vise and "tapped" on the driveshaft while i pulled on it and nothing. Im thinking mine also need some heat. Don, yours may have been welded on there because someone thought it was loose. Did yours have a pin re-installed? Thanks James C

How does one seperate the driveshaft from the pinion shaft, after i pumched out the pin of course? I dont have the factory tool but i do work in a fabrication shop. So I need some ideas.

So, there is no pinion preload setting, but only a pinion depth setting. Does anyone have any spec range for side bearing preload? Thanks James C.

Thanks Don. You've explained it better than the manual and in much fewer words. I'm sure I'll have more questions as I dig deeper. Thanks James C

Okay. So the pinion bearings are pressed in from the back?? Whats the best tool you would you use to pull them out (without destroying them)? One of those slide hammer bearing puller kits or what? The plot thickens.... Thanks James C

1937 Buick Special 40 How do i seperate the torque tube from the diff carrier? I believe i need to change my pinion bearings. Also, what is the chance that the drive shaft itself could be bent. The shaft that sticks out the front of the torque tube wobbles in it's hole when I spin it. Thanks James C

Alright, so no visible damage in the rear pumpkin. No debris. The gear lash is a bit loose but thats understandable. The spider gears have some freeplay but theyre not making the noise. So it must be something forward of the pumpkin. It sort of sounds like a mild roar with intermittent clunks like a bearing ball has gotten loose or disintegrated. Is there a bushing or bearing in the front of the torque tube? Or it could be the ujoint at the back of the transmission? Well it all got to come out anyways to find out for sure! So anymore advice is appreciated such as where to source parts like crush sleeves and shims or advice on getting the axle assembly out. I dont have much time to work on it right now but im goimg to keep researching.

Hello again, My '37 Special has started emitting a pulsing roaring sound from the back end. I jacked the car up, put it in 3rd gear, and went around to listen. At first, I hoped it was a wheel bearing because it sort of seemed loudest out at the right wheel, but that may just be the brakes rubbing a bit more over there. If I get under the car and feel the pumpkin I feel a sort of pounding or bumping. If I turn the car off, in neutral, and spin each wheel, I dont really hear any harshness or roughness. So... my guess is the pinion bearings. That sound about right? What kind of ordeal is it to just replace the pinion bearings?? Or can anyone recommend a rebuilder near the Mooresville/Charlotte NC area I could talk to? I'm not opposed to doing this myself; I dont have a lot of money and I like to do things myself. If anyone can post some diy info and or tips I'd appreciate it. So I will continue to research this issue and take into account what yall say. The car is parked for now until I fix the problem. And as a wish list item... I see people replacing their rear axles with lower gear ratios, can you just replace the pinion/diff set? Thanks James C

Thanks Rodney. I have the pump rebuilt by My Classic Car Trader, LLC and just got it back on yesterday. So far, after a flush, and refill, I haven't seen any foam or leaks. So for the price, it was worth it to send it out. Time will tell tho Thanks James C

Thanks. I talked to some vintage pump rebuilding services today. The price they ask seems well worth both them machining sealing surfaces and fitting more modern seals. He said the newer seals were a direct fit replacement so nothing is altered. Now i just gotta get that pump outta there!

Could i perhaps replace the rubber seal in a NOS kit with fresh rubber? I have the lower hose with the spring and non of my hoses are leaking?

Does anyone know what the seals are made of in a NOS water pump kit? I keep reading about a carbon block and pictures of the kits look like they have a sandwich of fiber washers. If the seals are rubber, i assume theyd be old and brittle. But if the seal is carbon, i figure it would still be good for its age.

Hello, Ive got a 1937 Special with the ball bearing type water pump. For a few months now, but increasingly more common, I will get foam from the coolant overflow. Propylene glycol coolant. The temp gauge doesnt read hot when I get the foam, and when she has run hot (about 210) no foam comes out. So I think Im getting air in the water pump some how to create the foam. I made sure to retighten all my hose clamps. And I dont see any cross contamination in the oil or the coolant. There is also evidence that the pump shaft is leaking out the snout of the pump. Could this be the culprit? So that led me to looking at NOS water pump kits on ebay.... and my question would be is there rubber seals in the water pump and would you trust the rubber seals in an 80 year old kit? Thanks James C.