Jump to content

joe c

Members
  • Posts

    104
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by joe c

  1. I just acquired a 1965 Riv factory wood steering wheel complete with horn bar etc… with a slight bend of the metal spring and correct reassembly, thanks to the parts drawing, the horn bar snaps just like Tom explained above. Good advice. Thanks, Joe
  2. Guys, this past weekend I swapped out my original driveshaft for one I bought a few years ago. I couldn't feel any play in this driveshaft and all the fittings took grease nicely, so it's worth a try to see what happens, and after the swap I took the car for a ride and the slight vibration I was getting between 45-65mph with my original dshaft was gone. If I had to say there was kind of a consistent feel throughout from 0-75mph, not a vibration but I think there's room for improvement with the second dshaft. I looked at my angles prior to removing my original dshft with a magnetic angle finder and seemed to be 1-2 degrees in either direction. Being an original car and drivetrain I wouldn't think this would be an issue. I'm going to take my original dshaft to a shop for a once over and a high speed balance...I'll probably swap them out again... Thanks, Joe
  3. Thanks everyone for your input I’m going to check out the video in the earlier post, see if I can learn more about this issue.
  4. hahaha... interesting is right! I need to read it a few times more. I will definitely be back with results... Thanks, joe c
  5. That’s good reading, I’ll have to read it a few times to sink in. Speaking for my car it’s all original driveline with my engine just rebuilt and balanced and runs very smooth, just a little vibration around 50-60 mph. My driveshaft was rebuilt a couple years ago and phased at 67-1/2 degrees, I still have the pin on the splined shaft. I’m not happy the way it was balanced…using vice grips to clamp the hanger? then weights welded to the yoke… I don’t like that so I’ve contacted a driveline shop who will balance up to 2000 rpm and can balance two piece driveshafts. Next week I’ll be getting this done. joe c
  6. My car runs smooth from 0-50mph and a little vibration at 50-60mph you can feel in the back of your seat then gone again. Nothing on deceleration unless your in this speed range. That's why I'd like to try the shims or maybe a high speed drive shaft balance from a reputable shop. I can certainly live with that if nothing changes after this experiment. Joe
  7. I’ve been recently reading up on this because of all the frustration I’ve been through with my vibration. I’d like to keep current with anyone else whose going through the same process. Also I am not to pleased on the way the last shop balanced the driveshaft, so I’m curious if some new info is available. I’m considering trying the shim size you mention or maybe a different shop for a high speed balance. My car runs good but I think it could be a little better at 50 mph. All in all after the engine rebuild its 100% better than before maybe I should leave it alone. Humm Thanks for the information joe c
  8. Hey Ray...this is what is was reading up on, which got me thinking of these shims. I was skipping through this post quickly for something to pop out at me, I'll go through it again a little slower. Thanks, Joe
  9. well... from what I've read and understand these shims would change the driveline angle and prevent vibration or at least keep the driveline true and help reduce vibration? I'm going to check my driveline angles on the weekend when I can use my buddies hoist just for curiosity. should be 1 to 3 degrees. My car runs good but I always wonder could it be better?
  10. I was reading through some of these old posts on vibrations and came across something interesting that I'm curious about and maybe someone can answer. There are shims between the hanger bearing and the frame...what thickness are these shims? mine have been gone forever, I don't remember ever having these shims. Just wondering how much of a difference these shims would make on the driveline? I don't remember seeing any reference to these in the shop manual. Thanks Joe
  11. After set up of all the rotating assembly and figuring where the out of balance was, turns out it was 66 grams on the front of the crankshaft and 117 grams at the rear of the crankshaft was needed, so they drilled in these predetermined locations, and welded in plug weights. David if you were only out 10 grams and could feel it... mine at 183 grams wow! Don't forget my engine was rebuild in the mid 80's and was not balanced then so this issue has been since then. Joe
  12. This is an old picture but I bent a piece of sheet metal and painted it black.
  13. Here's a picture of what the engine compartment looks like now with the rebuild and a little work to the underside of the hood and inner fenders. The rad fits better after some light modifications no interference from the rad cap to the hood. New front end components and rear control arm bushings and shock all around, new steering box and steering column bearing. I'm done for this year... Joe
  14. Guys, Like David said the Nailhead engine requires the lower end to be balanced together and that's what I had done, which if that's all I did would have taken care of my vibration but while the engine was torn down a complete rebuild took place. The crank was drilled and plugged with weights to balance everything evenly. No more engine vibration feels like a new car for me! Thanks, Joe
  15. Hey Guys, My engine is back in the car and running smooth at idle and down the highway...It's been a very long and frustrating ordeal and I'm glad it's over with. My vibration problem was an out of balance engine 183 grams total. This engine was rebuilt in the mid 80's and was not balanced back then and it has been like that ever since... Thanks, Joe
  16. Great advice…thanks to everyone, I did mask up with a respirator and disposal coveralls and gloves. I was hoping someone out there makes a seat upholstery kit but I guess I’ll look here for a shop for custom made. I’m not fussy on material, thinking I’m just going with vinyl not leather. Joe
  17. I’ve recently received an 82 Convertible Riv. Unfortunately it was sitting for the last 3 years and infested by mice. It’s time for new seat upholstery and carpeting. Does anyone have information on where to buy an interior kit. Most of the smell is gone after stripping out the interior completely and a good cleaning and painting the floors. Any tips on getting rid of mice smell would be appreciated too just in case I don’t great results from my attempt. I also have to replace all the bumper fillers front and rear. Here’s a picture of my 82Thank you Joe Camisa
  18. Good point… I love it… aaayyy… it didn’t work…. Darn it I’m not the fonz… I’ll ask him for prototype pictures see what he says. I bought the rad directly from cold case. thanks for the laughs Joe
  19. Here’s a little more on this rad issue. I received email yesterday from the rad manufacturer from my last post when they haven’t replied back to me… Here’s their latest, they explain to me how to close the hood and not to drop it closed…by slowly closing it and press down to lock it in place, which is how I close the hood anyway. They explain doing this will prevent chips in the paint. I don’t understand why they would think anyone would slam a hood closed. They also said to lean back the top part of the rad toward the fan by adjusting the upper rad bracket but this won’t work because the fan will hit the shroud, I tried this when I first got the rad and installed it. I’ll reply back to their latest email and will post any information for anyone’s curiosity thanks, Joe
  20. Guys, here's the update and probably the end of this issue. The rad manufacturer requested a few more pictures with the hood on and adjusted to the car and the rad sitting in place. I sent these off this morning but haven't heard back from them yet. The rad I purchased in August of 2021 is from Cold Case part number CHD924A 63-65 Riviera and I complained about the fitment then. No help other than typical like Ed said " we sell lots of these and no one has issues" Well lots was 29 in total and 6 this year according to the rep. Last night I figured, from going back and forth with the manufacturer I would have make the best of it without going too crazy on modifications. After installing the hood and adjusting it to the fenders. I installed the rad and was able to squeeze 1/4" of clearance after a few modifications without the cushions at the bottom of the rad. Picture 1 rad, rad cap and hood. I do have a piece 1/16" rubber that should give me enough isolation and not hit the rad cap with the hood when closed. Here's what I did...I removed the rad brackets from the rad cradle and cut out the back side or the side closest to the a/c condenser then reinstalled the brackets, picture 4 this gave me some clearance about 1/8" and will still be able to hold the fan shroud in place. I also ground the head of the carriage bolt in the center of the cradle that holds the bracket for the headlight motor. Doing all this gave me 1/4" clearance see picture 2 and when I close the hood it doesn't hit the cap as long as I don't slam it down...which I don't do anyway. Picture 4 is the cradle before mod's...I didn't get a picture after but you can see the brackets and the carriage bolt I'm talking about. All in all the guy in tech support was helpful but not what I wanted to go through for a direct fit rad...I guess it could have been worse... So this should be the end of this rad issue, hopefully it was helpful for everyone involved. Sorry about the sideways pictures...squatting in the engine compartment wasn't very comfortable and a little snug. Thanks for everyone's help, Joe Camisa
  21. Tom, I had a few engine guys/ old school mechanics rev up the engine through different rpm’s with the car standing still and they all feel a vibration at different rpm’s but not consistently through all rpm’s. I changed my tranny mount and even had the car up to Toronto to a classic car transmission shop who balanced the torque converter and installed a new rear output shaft bearing. No change in the vibration or at least not better so I figured this is the next step pulling the engine to see what’s going on in there. thanks Joe
  22. Unfortunately there was two Joe’s with the same vibration, it can be confusing with the same name…Joe with the 63 had mods, trans and driveshaft etc. I have a 65 with a 425 engine and no modifications. I’ve been through almost everything possible to figure out this vibration and now it’s comes down to balancing the engine. I’ve checked out the flywheel for correct alignment and it was in place with the 7th hole lined up with the crank. I just think it needed to be balanced… hopefully that’s all it is… Thanks Joe
  23. I get it...I was going to post their name but I'm still going back and forth with them and until there's a compromise... I'll wait for a couple more days. They haven't told me yet that there's nothing more they can do... I am asking for a refund of some sort or a replacement but if they are all made the same this is pointless, or I could just do exactly what you suggest by cutting the neck and getting it welded or just get my original rad re-cored. I have a few options. Thank Joe
×
×
  • Create New...