22touring
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Posts posted by 22touring
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I had the ammeter connected backwards.
At first it seemed like the vacuum tank was pulling fuel from the main tank OK, so I took it for a drive even though I didn't test it long enough. The car ran fine until I came to the first hill, where it ran out of fuel. I had to re-fill the vacuum tank from a can in order to get it back home. So much for my "restoration" of the vacuum tank! It is not pulling vacuum at all. I need to take it apart and see if I can figure out what's wrong with it. I do have the appropriate documentation.
Also, the external contracting bands for the service brake feel like they have grease on them, so it's not stopping very well. I'm not sure if I installed the axle felt seals the way that minibago told me to, above, so I need to pull the rear wheels, check for axle lube leaking onto the bands and drum, and install the axle felts the correct way.
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Motor Mouth - 1928 Dodge Brothers - YouTube
My mother always taught me that if you can't say anything nice, say nothing at all, so that's what I'll do. (Please note that I am not hereby claiming to always have followed my mom's advice, but once in awhile can't hurt.)
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Yes, Doug, I think the top on the alleged Horace Dodge car was a common aftermarket replacement type. The "Sheik" in this picture had the same kind:
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I took your advice, Doug, and looked for more DB videos on youtube.com, and found these two notable. (There were quite a few more that were somewhat ordinary walk-arounds.):
Nice car, but it's too bad the previous owner spent so much for a good but totally incorrect restoration, and the engine compartment is not detailed.
Was this really Horace Dodge's personal driver, and did Horace really install all the accessories? (It irks me that they keep calling it a Model 30 because it is my understanding that John and Horace did not intend for there to be any model number, and that issuing model numbers commenced only in the late '20's.)
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I have watched lots of youtube.com videos about car collections, but until recently I had never seen one that contained a DB car. (One might well wonder why, for example, Jay Leno has never featured a DB, whether in the Jay Leno's Garage series or in the ones he does with the Audrain museum. I just can't help but wonder sometimes whether or not Leno has an iota of common sense. But of course one is not allowed to argue with success, is one?)
But today I came across this video of the AACA collection, which features a '26 DB that they call a "Suburban". Is that really the right name for this vehicle? Please clue me in, Brothers.
The DB appears at 13:50 into the video.
So do the internet content creators fail to feature DB cars because they lack knowledge, because they are snobs, or because restored DB cars are rare? And if it is because they are rare, then why aren't they worth more?
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I do not believe that replacement pistons for the 4-cylinder cars were available when the Stockton DB plant was rebuilding motors for the early cars, so they would metal (thermal) spray the old pistons and re-machine them. I believe they chose a thermal powder which gave an optimal wear surface, maybe even better than that of the original cast iron pistons. That's what the former DB factory mechanic did to my engine when it was rebuilt in 1957. It is a really sweet-running 4-cylinder (crossing my fingers).
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I find myself fantasizing a lot about going to Australia to volunteer to help these guys with their DB restorations in order to learn some of the things they could teach me, but I'm too old to do that. I sure wish I could, though. I know they would really up my resto game.
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I am so sad to hear that. Over the years Rodger was very kind and helpful to me with my '22 tourer.
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Nearchoc Doug wrote, inter alia: "I can't imagine the life of a parts man back then."
So Doug, since parts orders were sent by the dealers to the factory by telegraph, and in order to minimize telegraph costs DB adopted 5-or-6 letter acronyms for each part that the dealership parts man had to memorize, don't you think you would have had a really good time memorizing all those parts acronyms? I'm sure you would have really enjoyed it!
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I did get the '22 touring car completely re-assembled, and it started right up and ran fine. I only put gas in the vacuum tank in order to drive it into my storage building, because I'm not going to be driving it until the weather dries up. So I'm not yet sure that the vacuum tank will suck fuel from the main tank, but I can always worry about that later. Also, I noticed that although the starter-generator cranks the engine just fine, it is not charging the battery. I wonder why not?
Now it's "on to my next restoration"!
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I was wrong again, Jack! DB bought 1,500 wood-framed bodies from the Wilson Carriage Co. during its first year of production because they couldn't get enough all-steel bodies from Budd. Nearchoc Doug set me straight on this.
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Thanks, Matt!
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Let's try this one more time with a couple of pictures that I've labeled:
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Brethren, if (after having the top off the car for some time, and wanting to tack the rear to the body) the bottom edge of the rear of my touring car's top doesn't reach the tack strip at the rear of the tub, what would you suspect? (It's about 1-1/2" above the tack strip.) Maybe the top mechanism isn't extending fully? It seems like the middle bow might be too high, but I'm not sure, and I don't want to apply too much force to the mechanism and break it. How can I check and correct this? (I'll take pictures of the bow socket mechanisms inside the top, if necessary). Maybe the top fastening knobs at the tops of the windshield irons are too far forward? I'd appreciate any advise you could give me on this.
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That sounds ideal. I'm sure that Myers or Romar would do a really good job (probably other DB vendors would, too, but I am forgetting their names at the moment). You might want to check the cost of taking it apart and sending the pieces separately vs. sending the assembled starter/generator in a single box.
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When my starter-generator conked out years ago, I inquired around in order to find a local shop with a good reputation that rebuilt starters, generators and alternators, and took it there. They were able to work on it with no problems because it is pretty conventional, third-brush regulation stuff. That shop did fix it well, because it has worked for about 30 years now. But if you have a blown armature or field winding, you are probably going to have to find a replacement winding (I have never heard of anybody who re-winds them, but maybe there is somebody, somewhere). You will want to avoid shipping a complete starter-generator because they are so heavy that it is virtually cost-prohibitive.
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When I had my tourer apart, I found that the throwout bearing was in good mechanical condition but was really cruddy, so I soaked it in solvent and cleaned it up. Now I want to make sure that it is lubricated properly before I road test the car. (I did clean out the tube connecting the floorboard grease cup to the bearing, which was totally blocked.) I've cranked down on the grease cup quite a bit while watching the T.O. bearing through the cutout in the top of the bell housing, but I don't see any grease entering or coming out of it. Would you Dodge Brethren have any suggestions for me about how to make sure the T.O. bearing is actually receiving grease? Maybe I should connect a grease gun in place of the grease cup in order to fill up the connecting tube and give the T.O. bearing its initial lubrication.
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It is clear to me now that I would be a lot happier in Aussie land.
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I nominate this D.B. ad for the "most flowery prose" award of all the D.B. ads I have ever seen. It appeared in the New York Tribune on October 10, 1920. This was after John's death in January, but before Horace's death in December. I wonder whether the dealer whose name is mentioned or the D.B. organization wrote the ad copy.
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I have been told that the most popular such OHV head was the Roof cylinder head.
I have also heard that the Roof head produced too much horsepower for the 3-main bearing babbitted engine and led to bottom-end failure.
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Maybe in the Restoration Supply Co. catalog on page 8.
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This "top oiler" was installed on the firewall of my '22 Dodge Bros. when I bought it years ago, and I'm trying to decide if it would be a good idea to put it back on the car after a restoration. (I doubt it is from the '20s, though; more likely from the '30s or '40s.) I remember seeing these on cars when I was a kid. All of the labels that may have been on it originally are worn off. Would anybody recognize who manufactured it? Alemite, maybe? Do you think I should reinstall it on the car? If I do, I'd like to obtain a picture of an original unit and have reproduction decals made for it.
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Don't mention it, Doug. I am glad to do it for you because you have helped me a lot with advice about my restoration.
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Here you go, Doug:
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Need advice on stripping down chassis
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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The more immediate problem is that the vacuum tank is not producing any vacuum. I've got to correct that before worrying about leaks in the fuel line coming from the main tank.