billboos

What is proper tire pressure for 1947 Lincoln Continental Convertible and do you deviate to what and why? Thanks

Got it --- thanks. Everything worked. Great forum -- got so many Lincoln questions answered.

Thanks, I guess I was following an old instruction. However it looks like I am blocked from settings. I can click all the line items except settings. It is grayed out I and only get a verticle line when I move the cursor there instead of the finger point icon

I'm trying to add a signature but can't find settings. I read a reply that I should hit down arrow next to my name but cannot find a page containing the up and down down arrows next to my name. Thanks, Bill

UPDATE: Received the 7.00 15 Carlisle light truck tubes from Tireinnertube.com. Arrived in three days after ordering from Missouri to California. $19 each or 2 for $34.They seem pretty heavy duty but are labeled "made in China" as I guess most all are. Have not taken to local truck tire dealer for install yet. I hope the TR13 valve stem is proper -- would appreciate it if anyone can confirm. Thanks

After a lot of research, it appears the valve stem for my "47 Continental is the TR13. I ordered two "light truck" Carlisle tubes from Tireinnertube.com in the 7.00 15 size. I'll let you know how it works out. . I don't know where they are made. I've read that Carlisle brought their production of tires back to the US from China a few years ago but no mention of tubes. I won't be surprised if tubes are made in China, Korea or Vietnam. They are advertised as heavy duty but we will see. I'll probably go to the Diamond Back 4 inch white sidewall tubeless radial (bias look-alike) tires in the next few months. Any comments pro or con appreciated

Thanks to all of you for your help -- I don't want to wear out my welcome but Yet another question if I may. I have a flat on my '47 Lincoln and want to replace the tube while I'm deciding on all new radial tires. I can find some 7.00 15's on line but there are different valve stems like TR13 and TR15. Does anyone have experience with those tubes to help so I don't get tubes with the wrong valves and have to return them one or more times. Any ideas where I can order? Thanks

Ray, thanks for the tip on Adkins in case I need other parts. My '47 Continental has 7.00 15 as standard so I'll stick with those. I talked with Rusty at Diamond Back and he said they have that size in the Auburn Deluxe line with whitewalls up to 4 inches. They are tubeless radials supposedly with a bias tire look. It looks like Diamond Back and Coker are the only options for my size whitewalls. Any suggestion for other options?

Matt, sorry to other you with so many questions especially since you have been so responsive. Did you ever get the 700R15 for your Cadillac? I just talked to Diamondback and they have the Auburn Deluxe in 700 15 with up to 4" wide whitewalls. Do you have any experience or knowledge of these?

Ray, what size are the tires on the '41. Mine on the 47 are 700. 15. Did you get wide whitewalls or were blackwalls OE on your car? Also, anything special about valve stem installation on the tube type rims. Also for you, Matt or anyone, I assume most big tire shops are not seeing many tubeless tires going on older rims -- any type of tire shop i should try.

Mssr Bwatoe and Ray, thanks for answering. I'm not at all hung up on keeping original tube type bias tires on the car but can understand why some want to keep their vintage cars totally vintage. I like to drive the car and find that over 50 mph it tends to "hunt" from side to side perhaps from the bias tires. I have Firestone Deluxe Champion wide whites and want to keep the same look and not go to the narrower white sidewalls. Will I have to do anything to the rims to prepare for tubeless radials? I've always been concerned about leakage through the rims or not having the proper edge flange to secure the tubeless radials. Any comments from you or others will be appreciated. I should probably change tires anyway as they have no wear but are probably 25+ years old from the original restoration. I'm not looking for budget tires. I want the best available whether they are the most expensive or not. They are 700. 15 so the selection may be limited in in original look wide white sidewalls. Thanks for any suggestions . Bill

Thanks, John, Ryan and Matt who has helped me out many times before -- can't believe he has over 5000 posts. I may resort to a simple patch if tube looks OK. If not, you all gave me good leads. This forum has been great as an info source

I have Firestone 7.00 15 tube type tires on my 1947 Lincoln Continental and need to buy 2 tubes, one to fix a flat and one as a spare. Is there a site I can go to to be sure I get the right size and valve stem type Is there a brand you can recommend. My tube type tires are white wall Firestones. Thanks, and if there is a topic open on this subject that did not come up in a search, please let me know. I hate to start new duplicate topics. Bill

Had a chance to look under my Lincoln when I had the oil changed.-- nice and clean, no rust or visible damage. One disturbing fault --- the muffler has been patched with sheet metal (actually a disassembled tin can like I used on my early Fords when I was a kid) screws and baling wire totally incongruous with the rest of the car's high quality restoration. I assume it was done as an expedient when car was getting in running condition after sitting for 7 or 8 years before I bought it. Anyway, my question is whether replacement mufflers are available for a 1947 Lincoln Continental Cabriolet. Car runs very quietly but now knowing it is patched with a Campbell's soup can is concerning..Are there reliable parts vendors who advertise on this site who sell NOS mufflers and exhaust pipes? Or any other Lincoln parts sources. Thanks for any suggestions. .

19tom40, thanks. You pretty much confirm what I plan on doing -- seems like a logical approach. I suspect the difference in the oil gauge float reading is just a function of how long the car was sitting after running and oil settling back in the pan. I'll check it out cold and immediately after running.

I'm going with 20/50 Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil because it has the zinc additive and was recommended by several owners in and outside of this forum. Still have an open question about capacity. Some say 5 quarts when changing filter and some say 6 quarts. I'm wondering if there i s a difference between earlier models and 46/47/48 engines. Mine is a 1947 Continental. The original operating manual is not clear to me either.. It says: 5 Quarts (Less Filter Absorption). I don't know how to interpret that. The v12 does not have a dipstick, only the float gauge which sometimes shows above full and sometimes below. Without any new input, I think I will use 5 quarts with the filter change , see what the gauge reads after sitting and letting oil drain into case and add accordingly. Thanks for any references or information.

Matt, thanks. I was afraid of the myths about synthetics being bad for older engines. I guess my guy was not off by suggesting synthetic 20/50. I will try it and worse thing would be leakage and then I would revert to non-synthetic. Good answer, thanks again. I've learned a lot on this forum.

FOLLOW UP QUESTION RE WHAT KIND OF OIL TO USE: My shop only has synthetic oil and suggested I bring my own oil if I want non-synthetic. Can I use synthetic in my Lincoln '47 v12? Is it preferable or a no-no? He also recommended 20/50 in lieu of 30 w in original manual when they may have had no multiple weight oils. Any suggestions?

This is an update to my posts re '47 Lincoln Continental v12 missing when at normal operating temperature and at higher speeds (40 MPH): I replaced the dried out rubber flex hose from the fuel pump to fuel line and have taken the car for 3 test rides. Starts immediately (about 2 seconds) , idles smoothly and runs strong and without missing. Took it up to about 55 MPH and it was perfect except for high engine rev -- switched to overdrive and it purred along at 65. Can't say for sure it was the flex hose --- could it be that the plugs were fouled and burned off after driving a while --- what that cause a miss only when hot or at higher speeds? Keeping my fingers crossed that problem may be solved. Driving at 65 MPH did bring up another question some members may have an opinion on.On the highway with some grooved pavement, the bias tires seem to "hunt" moving the front end laterally a bit and requiring a firm hand on the wheel. Those who show their cars may have a "bias" against radials as they are not original or authentic but does anyone have experience or opinions on switching to radial tires -- I understand they make them with wide whitewalls. Thanks to all for advice so far -- it really helped me..

Thanks, Shortop.I would like to "extendith" the lesson if you wouldn't mind. Would it be a good idea to replace the resistors just because the car is 70 years old? Are they easy or difficult to get to and replace. Would a weak resistor cause a miss when engine heats to normal operating temps?

carbking, thanks for the advice. Others on this site, Matt Harwood and 19tom40 also suspect the coil. If the new flex hose and Heet in the tank to absorb water do not make a difference, I 'll send the coil to Skip Haney for a rebuild just to rule that out.At least I'll have assurance of a good coil for only $150 Sorry for the new post in addition to a duplicate post on original thread. I was trying to attract someone with specific carb knowledge

Jon, thanks for the reply. I don't know where I would get ethanol free gas in California. The first time the carb was rebuilt with oversized jets it had other issues -- like parts of it were from an early Ford truck so a vintage Lincoln expert I found rebuilt an OEM carb with spec jets. Do you think spec jets with ethanol would cause missing only after heating up and under load at 40 to 50 mph. Runs great cold and idles smoothly. Should I mess with the idle jets since it is idling perfectly. I will install a new flex hose from the gas line to the fuel pump when I get it this week but that may not be the problem. It is old and stiff and I have read that they can swell up or collapse when hot -- anyway a cheap part for a preventative measure. It's hard to find anyone who knows old cars --- most of the owners work on their own cars. I did locate a shop that specializes in old cars. I will have them flush and inspect the gas tank as there is some sediment in the fuel pump glass bowl. I'll also have them check out the ignition system.

I am posting the following here as well as starting a new topic: I am confused by multiple opinions about carburetor setup. One opinion is to use jets based on original specs. Another says larger diameter jets are required because of today's gas. My 1947 Continental; bought last year had the carb rebuilt before I bought it -- the shop said they had to drill out the jets to a larger diameter to get more gas to the engine. The car was still missing when hot and a well recognized expert on Lincolns rebuilt the carb again and installed original spec jets saying it is best to keep everything original. The car is still missing when hot so there may be some other issue. I am replacing the fuel pump flex hose from the gas line to fuel pump next week just because it looks old and brittle. My question is "what jets are best -- original or larger and if so how much larger." Anyone have any experience with carb setup. I am ready to replace everything fuel and ignition related just to get a reliable driver . Thanks

I am confused by multiple opinions about carburetor setup. One opinion is to use jets based on original specs. Another says larger diameter jets are required because of today's gas. My 1947 Continental; bought last year had the carb rebuilt before I bought it -- the shop said they had to drill out the jets to a larger diameter to get more gas to the engine. The car was still missing when hot and a well recognized expert on Lincolns rebuilt the carb again and installed original spec jets saying it is best to keep everything original. The car is still missing when hot so there may be some other issue. I am replacing the fuel pump flex hose from the gas line to fuel pump next week just because it looks old and brittle. My question is "what jets are best -- original or larger and if so how much larger." Anyone have any experience with carb setup. I am ready to replace everything fuel and ignition related just to get a reliable driver . Thanks

Are you aware of any instructions for removing/installing entire distributor and coil from the block. Thanks