Kenneth Carr

You can try Bill Gratkowski. Find him on page 93 of the 2022 Sept/Oct Antique Automobile. I believe I saw him at Hershey one year. His stuff looked great but I have no personal experience of dealing with him. He will provide an estimate. You have to send all your parts to him.

This reference should be of help: https://www.teambuick.com/reference/ident_engine_til_52.php This is its root page with a discussion of interest: https://www.teambuick.com/community/index.php?threads/straight-8-identification-serial-number-and-engine-type.28703/

I have attached a photograph of my long-gone front floor mat (1941 Buick Roadmaster 4 door sedan). I tossed it because it was crumbling. What I think was the cloth insert is the beige rectangle in the upper left, driver's side only. Note that the top part of the floor mat attached to the section that goes up the firewall as seen in the second photo where the floor mat has been removed and just the padding remains. What you see here is absolutely original! The photos were taken about 20 years ago. I have now fitted a sturdy entry mat to the floor. The good part is that all the holes in the floor have been replaced with new sheet metal welded in place (long time ago). I am no longer able to see the road when I look at the floor. LOL

In my ‘41 Roadmaster there is also full rear carpet, a light beige. The front was all a large rubber mat with beige carpet inserts. As I recall these mats were sold (Bob’s, Buick Store, etc.) in brown or black. I will look to see if I have an old photo.

Look for remnants of the old ones near the firewall and under the front seats. I suspect they came stock in both colors. The one in my 1941 Roadmaster was brittle and fell apart in pieces.

I have a 1941 Roadmaster. I suspect the steering is similar. The grease I use in my steering gear is called Oregon Grease. Amazon no longer carries it. I paid about $16 for a large container. It keeps coming out under various names. Oregon is a chainsaw supply company. I think they first pushed this stuff as a chainsaw lube. It looks like Oregon now sells it in a small squeeze container.https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/00-grease/p/49-010 You can pour it directly into the gearbox. It flows very slowly. Be sure to turn the wheel all the way in one direction and then the other. Otherwise you may not fill to capacity since the gears will close the hole in one direction. It seems to work well for me. No leaks. Wish I could say that about my transmission. LOL

Regarding Larry’s comment: My ‘41 would jerk suddenly left or right every time I went over an imperfection in the road. I had bias ply tires. Very scary. I had the kingpins, tie rod ends, stabilizers, bad A-arm, springs, bushings, and rubber bumpers all replaced. Then a good electronic alignment. Now I have control of the car and can cruise easily at the 45 mph limit on curvy local roads. Still have the old bias ply tires but they don’t get me rattled any more. Ken Carr

The black hubcap, I have been told, is to prevent any chance that luggage or other baggage might snag on the rough uncovered wheel and protruding stud. I have my jack in the trunk although it really belongs in a trough underneath the back seat. I purchased a hydraulic jack at Harbor Freight for about $35. It fits nicely under my frame and I think there is about 3/4” to spare (not sure) if I want to spread the load with a board.

Here are a couple places I found with an internet search. I have no idea whether or not they are reliable. They do mention the legalities for copying plates from certain more modern years. VIN Tags Replacement VIN Tags - Vehicle Identification Numbers Tag | Aluma Photo (alumaphoto-plateco.com) Las Vegas Custom Engraving - Custom Vin Tag, Replacement Vin Plate

If it is kingpins as Matt mentioned, the socket for the kingpin is likely to be out of round and will require shims to make the new pin fit. That had to be done on my '41 Roadmaster.

Great photo. Is that a gray or silver paint you used on the rack? It looks really nice. Ken Carr

My 1941 Buick also holds steady at 180 deg., right in the center of the gauge. I don’t do parades, though. Then it begins to climb.

Here is a photo of my 1941 jack stand and accessories. I believe it to be correct for 1941; but I did buy it separate from the car. All other photos I have seen, and the manual indicate that it is a '41.

The only things I found in the shop manual are: 7-14 Specifications Table. 2.5 pints capacity for trans. fluid, various gear ratios, and fluid recommendations. Last Page Foldout Max. & Min. dimensions for various gears, bearings, etc. Are you interested in overall dimensions such as length and width, weight, etc. of the entire transmission? I don't have that.

Lawrence, how much was too much? I believe I put in a few drops some time ago when I did this. Fortunately no problems.

You might want to look into a product called Git-Rot. I used it many years ago on a 1947 Mercury woody that I owned. It is a sort of stabilizer that penetrates the wood and preserves and bonds it in-place. How to use "Git"-Rot - Boat Life

Drakeule … I will have to check the circuit drawing and get back to you. I can confirm that the buffer caps are not electrolytics and they are in the coffin which originally contained one capacitor package that was actually two caps in the same wrapper. I put in those two brown poly drops to replace the buffers. I don’t recall how they were connected. I usually just put the new ones in the same way the old came out. I will check. I believe there was only one can electrolytic and it contained two capacitors with a common ground ; thus, three leads coming out of the can. I will confirm this. Do you need a schematic? My copies are not great but better than nothing.

You are welcome, John. The funny thing is that I was trying to post this as a response to a more recent inquiry and I ended up posting it here by mistake. So, I just copied it all to the other area too, I think!

The 1940 Sonomatic Radio (980620) is built the same as the 1941 model 980650. They both use a synchronous vibrator, model no. 8630. The synchronous vibrator has two sets of contacts instead of one. One set creates the interrupted 6-volt DC which when fed to a step-up transformer provides a sort of ‘simulated’ AC at higher voltages. This AC is then rectified by the rectifier portion of the vibrator to make DC to create tube plate supplies (B+). These vibrators require a very high working voltage capacitor called a buffer capacitor. In your radio it is a dual (2-part) capacitor (p/n 7236075) made up of two 0.015 capacitors (not electrolytic!) that are rated at 1,500 working volts each. The buffer capacitor is located under a sort of triangular shield that you will see upon opening the metal case. You need to replace those capacitors and the electrolytic filter capacitors at the minimum to get a working and reliable radio. You will also need a good circuit diagram. There are various ways to restore a non-working vibrator. One involves sending it a high voltage surge. Another involves opening the shell and filing the contacts. These methods are both covered in various videos on YouTube. I will leave you a couple relevant links below. I have not tried either of these since the only Sonomatic I worked on (for my 1941) had a good vibrator. Reference Book: Servicing the Modern Car Radio, by A. L. Hurlbut, 1946 and 1948 Vibrator Repair, 6-volt, Pontiac (applies to all) AACA Buick Pre-war forum, discussion on repairing Sonomatic. Fix That Vibrator, discussion on AntiqueRadios.com about ways to fix a vibrator To properly repair this radio you really need to replace all the capacitors as mentioned above. This came to about 16 pieces in all when I did mine. I can recommend justradios.com as a good source of capacitors and resistors. Photos: First one shows two electrolytic caps inserted into evacuated top mounted filter cap ... ready to solder into circuit. Second photo shows radio with most caps replaced. Note coffin-shaped structure on left. Underneath that is found the 2-part buffer capacitor that has been replaced by two new high voltage poly capacitors. Third photo is of a repair kit offered at one point on ebay. It included the two caps to replace the buffers (brown drops at top) and some electrolytics. I lost that bid! Good thing my vibrator was OK.

The 1940 Sonomatic Radio (980620) is built the same as the 1941 model 980650. They both use a synchronous vibrator, model no. 8630. The synchronous vibrator has two sets of contacts instead of one. One set creates the interrupted 6-volt DC which when fed to a step-up transformer provides a sort of ‘simulated’ AC at higher voltages. This AC is then rectified by the rectifier portion of the vibrator to make DC to create tube plate supplies (B+). These vibrators require a very high working voltage capacitor called a buffer capacitor. In your radio it is a dual (2-part) capacitor (p/n 7236075) made up of two 0.015 capacitors (not electrolytic!) that are rated at 1,500 working volts each. The buffer capacitor is located under a sort of triangular shield that you will see upon opening the metal case. You need to replace those capacitors and the electrolytic filter capacitors at the minimum to get a working and reliable radio. You will also need a good circuit diagram. There are various ways to restore a non-working vibrator. One involves sending it a high voltage surge. Another involves opening the shell and filing the contacts. These methods are both covered in various videos on YouTube. I will leave you a couple relevant links below. I have not tried either of these since the only Sonomatic I worked on (for my 1941) had a good vibrator. Reference Book: Servicing the Modern Car Radio, by A. L. Hurlbut, 1946 and 1948 Vibrator Repair, 6-volt, Pontiac (applies to all) AACA Buick Pre-war forum, discussion on repairing Sonomatic. Fix That Vibrator, discussion on AntiqueRadios.com about ways to fix a vibrator To properly repair this radio you really need to replace all the capacitors as mentioned above. This came to about 16 pieces in all when I did mine. I can recommend justradios.com as a good source of capacitors and resistors. Photos: First one shows two electrolytic caps inserted into evacuated top mounted filter cap ... ready to solder into circuit. Second photo shows radio with most caps replaced. Note coffin-shaped structure on left. Underneath that is found the 2-part buffer capacitor that has been replaced by two new high voltage poly capacitors. Third photo is of a repair kit offered at one point on ebay. It included the two caps to replace the buffers (brown drops at top) and some electrolytics. I lost that bid! Good thing my vibrator was OK.

Trim no. 902 is Tan Canada Cloth (Mohair). Paint code 560, besides Carlsbad Black body, includes Carlsbad Black wheels or the option of Dante Red wheels. Wheel striping is silver.

Ken, in light of your discovery it might be wise to take Neil’s advice and stick with the button until you invest in a new starter gear.

Ken, a link to a photo of what may be your switch is at the end of this message. I have a different one since my car is a 1941. It is attached to the front carburetor. The unit has a cylinder and piston in it. The rod that the choke valve (butterfly?) is attached to passes through the cylinder and it prevents movement of the piston. The rod has a flat on it. When you press the accelerator half way the rod turns and the flat lines up with the piston which then falls down and hits a pair of contacts that complete a circuit that engages the starter. There is a vacuum line attached to the cylinder. As soon as the engine starts you have sufficient vacuum to suck the piston up and open the starter circuit so the engine stops cranking. That’s my best understanding of it … may not be perfect but close. If one were to remove the two wires going to your starter button and attach them to the vacuum switch you would be back in business. I installed a new wiring harness in my car and it came with the correct wires. People put in a dash starter button when this system goes bad. Usually the problem is dirt getting inside the switch and causing the mechanism to clog up. Here is a link to a photo of the switch: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/342658-nos-1938-and-1939-buick-vacuum-starter-switch/

Thanks for the valuable information and have a great Christmas yourself !

Matt is correct on the identification of this radio. A typical used 1941 Buick radio will cost you $50 or less in unrestored condition. This radio is usually offered at a considerably higher price. The USA was well aware that we were likely to be entering a war soon. The war was the hot topic and having a shortwave radio in your home or car was one way to listen to European stations (and stateside) and keep up with what was going on. Check the inside of your 1941 Buick Fireball Eight operating manual. There were several versions. If you have is a typical one it will appear that someone has written a message on the inside cover. It will say "For "use of jack" see page 60". Actually the 'use of jack' began on page 59. By the time they came out with the shortwave option the inside cover had two inscriptions: " Suggest you read short wave radio information page 97" and "For "use of jack" see page 59". That correct notation was in the seventh edition of the 1941 Buick Owner's Manual. This is the manual you want to go along with your highly desirable accessory. The 1942 Owner's Manual did away with the inscriptions inside the front cover (at least by the second edition, the only one I have) and there is no reference to a shortwave radio.