Jump to content

Roadmaster71

Members
  • Content Count

    216
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Roadmaster71

  1. Look at the Dec. 6, 2017 post by Neil at the following link. If the oil you mention is in the spark plug wells this could be the explanation.
  2. This link to a previous discussion may help you out:
  3. Nicely done, Robby. Did you use off the shelf paint and primer or a custom mix? Any details on what you used would be much appreciated.
  4. Has anyone heard about someone making their own inspection cover for the 1941 cars? I was also surprised when I went searching for it in my ‘41 Roadmaster and could not find it. Very disappointed . I suspect they may have been thinking about retaining the integrity of the glued down sound deadening material.
  5. I have a 1941 with a different gauge (charge + on right, discharge - on left) but I believe the response of any gauge should be the same upon startup and shutoff. I have a short video that shows how I think it should work: I also do not see a strong charge when revving the engine. I suspect that if the battery is already well charged revving should not show a charge surge because the voltage regulator prevents that. Also I agree there should be no electrical draw with the engine off and the ignition switch in the off position. The spark test you did
  6. I would be interested in finding a good source for black ribbed mat. I have a 1941 Roadmaster and my mat crumbled when I removed it to have new floorboards welded in. I understand there is a reproduction mat available fo my car but at $500 it’s just not worth it to me.
  7. The trimmer adjustment is from an access hole on the back of the radio. Try that first. As mentioned above your antenna should be fully extended. Be careful about the garage, though. Always put the antenna back down before entering the garage if you back in or when backing out if you usually drive in front first. (guess how I figured that one out!). Have all of the capacitors been replaced with modern ones? Have the values of the resistors been checked? Have all the tubes been removed and their pins cleaned (a little contact cleaner and several insert / remove / insert actions will h
  8. You are welcome. I added a photo to the last post to show my Fuel Delivery Apparatus. Ken Carr
  9. I have the same problem if I leave the car sitting for over 7 days. My solution is to prime the carburetor. I remove the float sight screw from the side of the front carburetor and trickle in a few ounces of gasoline. I use a plastic soda straw (end cut on an angle) as a funnel. I also place a rag around the carburetor while pouring to catch the screw in case I drop it. I have not dropped it yet. The car starts easily. This is much safer than pouring fuel down the throat of the carburetor. Also to help starting I installed new 00 thickness positive and negative battery
  10. My experience is with the 1941 only: With the ignition switch off push the pedal to the floor once or twice. Next: For cold engine turn on ignition and depress accelerator half way. Engine starts. For warm engine: turn on ignition and depress pedal to floor and hold until it starts.
  11. I have seen the 1942 shop manual online for free download in a couple places. Unfortunately you must download one page at a time. If you are looking for information on only one system that is easy to do. Go to this link: http://buick.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/1942/Buick shop manual/index.html#google_vignette. I attached a sample page to this posting. The Old Car Manual Project site that hosts the manual is, in my opinion, a legitimate site. They fully discuss contribution guidelines. I once tried to get copyright information from GM regarding some 1941 material I owned. Over a peri
  12. I can tell you how I tested the vacuum starter switch on my 1941 Buick. I don’t know how similar they are. Mine is attached to the front carburetor. The throttle rod that chokes the carb when you press on the accelerator pedal passes all the way through the carb and terminates inside the vacuum switch. The rod has an eccentric on it. When the pedal is pushed to the half way point the eccentric releases a ball within the switch and that makes the contact between the two wires going to the vacuum switch. As soon as the engine starts the newly created engine vacuum sucks away the ball
  13. That looks good to me. Nice work. Is that twine that you used or maybe the reed used to cane chairs? My wheel is unfortunately too far gone for this. I am considering body filler and spray paint. Otherwise it’s a whole new wheel at over $1,000.
  14. Your Buick looks wonderful! I showed it to my wife. Her comment was “I like the yellow.” A photo of her daily driver is attached.
  15. The link that Matt suggests is a good place to go. I also recommend that you look in the shop manual, page 12-44 and page 12-45.
  16. I had the same situation with my two-tone ‘41 Buick. I gave the paint shop guy the original paint chips, original codes, and some updated code cross references I found on the internet.He could not use any of it. All outdated. lt took 3 visits to the store with him coming outside to match modern color chips with my car. Then I gave him an engine bay panel that had a good preserved sample of paint. After 2 weeks of intermittent tries he finally got it right. Note: some shops have an electronic device that ‘reads’ the color and attempts a match. He d
  17. Valk …. The two responses above are correct. You will find a complete discussion of this here:
  18. If you are running just the GPS you should get a full day (say 6 hours) out of it. If you run the CB alone and leave it in receive only you should also be good for most of the day. If you do any transmitting you will likely run the battery down in an hour or so. Running both at the same time is not likely to last long. Give it a test and see what you get. The suggestions for computing your amp hour use are good. I really like the step up transformer suggestion, especially if you intend to use the radio and GPS often. I bring one of those 12 volt
  19. I don’t know if this answers your question but please check pages 12-26 and 12-27 of the service manual. I have attached a photo.
  20. Looks good Neil. I especially like the light. That’s a smart solution, making it fused. I noticed your nice floor mat. Is that the original or did you buy repro.?
  21. Very nice! That warm weather you have certainly helps. No salt on your roads. Up here in New England it’s another story. The car looks great.
  22. I have attached a photo of my jack. This is the way I purchased it, used. I have every reason to believe that the remaining paint is correct. If you look closely inside the rim support at the top you will also see the remains of the original yellow decal.
  23. Interesting discussion. Whoever worked on my car before I owned it disconnected the vacuum switch. They installed a starting push button and a disconnect switch which I always had to turn on before starting. There is supposed to be a redundant system that prevents the car from cranking after it starts even if the vacuum switch hangs up. I don’t recall the details but I suspect it as Ben described. I have a new carb installed with a functioning vacuum switch so I want to try out the original system. A couple of my friends who have the same system run a starting button to the v
  24. I just looked closely at the shop manual. It seems to me that the two terminals on the side of the relay are connected to either end of the same winding which when energized switches in power to the larger starter motor coil. So, the contacts should be continuous with each other at all times. That’s my guess.
×
×
  • Create New...