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Roadmaster71

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Everything posted by Roadmaster71

  1. The attached photo shows the tools I have in my 1941 Buick Roadmaster. I know the jack is correct. The other tools (including the bar with a loop) came with the jack ... they were all tied together and sold as a set of 1941 tools. I have not found any information to the contrary. I suspect that the short bar is used to remove (break free) lug nuts by running the long one through it.
  2. You chose well. Thar is a beautiful car. Welcome to the forum!
  3. There are many car seat pads or cushions that may be suitable. The ones designed for accommodating a dog in the back seat look like they would also fit the front bench seat of a Buick. I just use a pair of seat pads designed for outdoor furniture. Try this Amazon search result: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=seat+pads+for+trucks+front+bench+seat&ref=nb_sb_noss My wife has slip on covers for her VW Beetle. To get something that may fit your car try the search “seat cover truck front bench” or just click on this link for some nice ones: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=seat+covers+truck+bench&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
  4. A friend of mine owns a 1947 Chrysler New Yorker 4-door sedan ( I think it is a '47). He repainted some of his dash and did a nice job. Looking at his glove box door he can still detect a slight warp along the top inner seam (he had to point it out to me before I could notice). He believes that the door is made of plastic, possibly attached to aluminum. When restoring the door there was a shallow burn mark that he repaired with some body filler. Questions: 1- Is this glove box door made of plastic? 2- Are there any accepted methods for taking out a slight warp without making it even worse? (I was thinking heat). I recommended that he leave it alone and not point it out to anyone. Photo is attached: the dirt marks on the door are from when my friend touched it with sweaty hands ... it was hot last Sunday
  5. The separate ground wire is a good idea. Originally the metal fuel line was used as the ground. Now most cars have a rubber hose connecting the first 10 inches of fuel line from the tank to the rest of the line. That removes the ground that used to go through all the frame clamps that hold the fuel line in place.
  6. Open the hood on the driver’s side. You will see the steering column coming out at the bottom of the firewall. Follow it towards the steering gear box. About 3/4 the way to the steering box you will notice the frame below and attached to it is a sensor with brake lines coming out of it on the bottom and two wires coming out the top. Those two wires must be plugged in tightly.
  7. Just a caution: if the temperature gauge is working I suggest you avoid removing the sender from the block. It will likely break if you do that. Then you have to find a new one to install or have the broken one repaired. Also, as mentioned above you cannot open the capillary tube from the dash end without destroying the seal and releasing gas. Just remove the whole gauge if it is in the way.
  8. It is a1941. The 1940 has a narrower grill. Also this car has the fender spears on the rear fenders, a 1941 feature. If you use a telephoto lens you will be able to read the model name from the hood opener at the leading edge of the hood side trim. Ditto on Ben and Neil’s comments.
  9. Very nice Buick, John! And you are correct, there is much to learn from the the very active members of this friendly group.
  10. Thanks First Buick for bringing this up and pont35cpe for the great answer! I never knew my car (‘41 sedan) had this feature. I put a bumper on my tool cart for when my driver door opens too wide and frequently have to feed the drop light through a window (when I remember to).
  11. Nice job on getting that post removed and painting the letters. I have the same problem with the letters. I think I will try your method. Although both my latches are good I bought a spare pair a number of years ago. Unfortunately one of them has that same post stuck in it. If I ever need to use it I will have to drill it out too. I worked in a machine shop for 8 years. I was the office manager. I am no machinist but I sure do know what they are capable of. Machinists are some of the most highly trained and skillful professionals around. Their math ability alone is amazing! They can make anything and understand the most complex of drawings. Many times our tool maker (a master machinist) came to me with drawings that were in error. He corrected the engineers!
  12. John ... The 1940 pushbuttons (likely from model no. 980620 radio) appear to be the same as all 1941's (model 980650) and likely the same as 1942. In 1946 Buick had two different radios: model 980690 had pushbuttons the same as the 1941-1942 models. This radio was on Buick car models 40, 60, and 90. A second 1946 radio (980744) was used on Buick car models 50 and 70 and that one had the sloped buttons. They may fit but they are incorrect on a radio with the square pushbuttons. Other models from 1947-1948 (980745, and 980798) had the sloped pushbuttons. I have not tried to put a sloped pushbutton on a radio that had square ones.
  13. The same buttons were used over very few years. Buttons can look similar but differ in details such as a straight or sloping front profile. I will give you some specifics a bit later when I have access to my radios. In the meantime you will find lots of mostly correct information here: https://sites.google.com/site/identifyingcarradios/home/radios-1/buick-1 This extensive site is a depository for information on ALL brands of car radios. The link brings you to the Buick section.
  14. Stuart: I checked the 1941 Buick Parts and Service Bulletins manual (abridged ed., Aug. 23, 1940 - Sept. 13, 1941) I was not able to find anything about using the jack. There sure was a lot of other stuff, though: Leaking trunk, water getting into backup lights, radio dial sticking (use white "lubriplate", not the brown stuff), leaking air cleaner .. oil all over the place .... install shield), etc.
  15. Stuart, I do not know if Buick acknowledged the danger of their rim jack. I suspect it was replaced in the late 40’s but I don’t know when. I think I have a Buick manual that lists problem areas and solutions like when they changed the spark plug size and changed exhaust recirculation for some straight eights. I will check that. You raise a very interesting question. Please post here if you find out what happened. Ken Carr, KE1RI
  16. Stuart : I just repair radios as a hobby. I am not a pro so I only work on my own radios. I would hate to mess up someone else’s radio. Neil’s suggestion is a good one.
  17. Ditto on everything said above. AAA and the small bottle jack are your best bet. It is nice to have the original jack kit for display. Every owner’s manual had the inscription on the inside cover. That was done by the publisher to get your attention. There were two versions that appeared in the manuals of which there were at least 7 editions. The one you have likely directs you to page 60. The instructions actually begin on page 59. They corrected this in the 7th edition and put two inscriptions on the inside cover. They read: “Suggest you read short wave radio information page 97. For “use of jack” see page 59.” WWII was going on in Europe and people here were interested in hearing about it directly so the short wave radio option was added. This is a very difficult radio to find today since relatively few were ordered. I have only one 1942 manual. By that time they managed to begin the jacking information on one page, 60. Also the short wave radio was no longer mentioned. Instead they offered two different radios that were AM broadcast band only. The radio for models 40, 60, and 90 had the faceplate at the bottom of the radio and the radio was in the same position as for 1941. In the 50 and 70 the radio has the faceplate at the top and they project from the top of the center chrome grill rather than the bottom. I know, too much information; but, I was into radios before cars. Ken, KE1RI
  18. Is the battery fully charged when you are trying to start in the cold weather? Charge the battery (trickle charge / battery minder) before attempting to start.
  19. Very nice result, Neil! I think you are just about ready for spring.
  20. Old bulbs vary mostly in base type and filament voltage. A source of specifications & photos is here: https://www.bulbtown.com/Bulbs_By_Base_Type_s/27.htm If you are replacing ,for example, a bulb that used 6 volts as it was installed in your old car you need to replace it either with an LED that uses the same voltage or you need to change the 6 volts from your battery to the voltage required by the LED. The LED voltage requirement will usually be less than what the car supplies. In that case you insert a voltage dropping resistor in series with the LED replacement so that the LED gets the proper voltage. A neat calculator to help determine what value resistor to use is here: Dropping Resistor Calculator | GTSparkplugs (note: voltage dropping resistors will heat up; use ones of adequate size so heat is dissipated. ) And if anyone is replacing bulbs with ones of the same type you might want to check Bob's Antique Radios and Electronics. He has some of them at a very reasonable price. I have purchased from him and he is reliable. Here is a nice chart that gives specifications about a variety of bulbs.
  21. I also had to remove the instrument panel to replace it and to install new wiring. I wrote a couple blogs about my experience. They may be helpful to you. And all the advice from Neal and the other folks is very good. Regarding tools you may want to pick up nut drivers that have a hollow shaft and one of those short round socket drivers that are good for close spaces. http://idlenot.com/?p=45301 Part 1 http://idlenot.com/?p=59410 Part 2
  22. Do you have a YouTube account? Put the video there and post the link here.
  23. This is from a few years ago. I convinced my wife to pose with our ‘41 Roadmaster. We were on a club trip to a local cider barn.
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