Jump to content

Roadmaster71

Members
  • Posts

    246
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Roadmaster71

  • Birthday 09/30/1949

Recent Profile Visitors

2,348 profile views

Roadmaster71's Achievements

1,000+ Points

1,000+ Points (3/7)

  • Dedicated Rare
  • Collaborator

Recent Badges

88

Reputation

  1. The attached photo shows the tools I have in my 1941 Buick Roadmaster. I know the jack is correct. The other tools (including the bar with a loop) came with the jack ... they were all tied together and sold as a set of 1941 tools. I have not found any information to the contrary. I suspect that the short bar is used to remove (break free) lug nuts by running the long one through it.
  2. You chose well. Thar is a beautiful car. Welcome to the forum!
  3. There are many car seat pads or cushions that may be suitable. The ones designed for accommodating a dog in the back seat look like they would also fit the front bench seat of a Buick. I just use a pair of seat pads designed for outdoor furniture. Try this Amazon search result: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=seat+pads+for+trucks+front+bench+seat&ref=nb_sb_noss My wife has slip on covers for her VW Beetle. To get something that may fit your car try the search “seat cover truck front bench” or just click on this link for some nice ones: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=seat+covers+truck+bench&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
  4. A friend of mine owns a 1947 Chrysler New Yorker 4-door sedan ( I think it is a '47). He repainted some of his dash and did a nice job. Looking at his glove box door he can still detect a slight warp along the top inner seam (he had to point it out to me before I could notice). He believes that the door is made of plastic, possibly attached to aluminum. When restoring the door there was a shallow burn mark that he repaired with some body filler. Questions: 1- Is this glove box door made of plastic? 2- Are there any accepted methods for taking out a slight warp without making it even worse? (I was thinking heat). I recommended that he leave it alone and not point it out to anyone. Photo is attached: the dirt marks on the door are from when my friend touched it with sweaty hands ... it was hot last Sunday
  5. The separate ground wire is a good idea. Originally the metal fuel line was used as the ground. Now most cars have a rubber hose connecting the first 10 inches of fuel line from the tank to the rest of the line. That removes the ground that used to go through all the frame clamps that hold the fuel line in place.
  6. Open the hood on the driver’s side. You will see the steering column coming out at the bottom of the firewall. Follow it towards the steering gear box. About 3/4 the way to the steering box you will notice the frame below and attached to it is a sensor with brake lines coming out of it on the bottom and two wires coming out the top. Those two wires must be plugged in tightly.
  7. Just a caution: if the temperature gauge is working I suggest you avoid removing the sender from the block. It will likely break if you do that. Then you have to find a new one to install or have the broken one repaired. Also, as mentioned above you cannot open the capillary tube from the dash end without destroying the seal and releasing gas. Just remove the whole gauge if it is in the way.
  8. It is a1941. The 1940 has a narrower grill. Also this car has the fender spears on the rear fenders, a 1941 feature. If you use a telephoto lens you will be able to read the model name from the hood opener at the leading edge of the hood side trim. Ditto on Ben and Neil’s comments.
  9. Very nice Buick, John! And you are correct, there is much to learn from the the very active members of this friendly group.
  10. Thanks First Buick for bringing this up and pont35cpe for the great answer! I never knew my car (‘41 sedan) had this feature. I put a bumper on my tool cart for when my driver door opens too wide and frequently have to feed the drop light through a window (when I remember to).
  11. Nice job on getting that post removed and painting the letters. I have the same problem with the letters. I think I will try your method. Although both my latches are good I bought a spare pair a number of years ago. Unfortunately one of them has that same post stuck in it. If I ever need to use it I will have to drill it out too. I worked in a machine shop for 8 years. I was the office manager. I am no machinist but I sure do know what they are capable of. Machinists are some of the most highly trained and skillful professionals around. Their math ability alone is amazing! They can make anything and understand the most complex of drawings. Many times our tool maker (a master machinist) came to me with drawings that were in error. He corrected the engineers!
  12. John ... The 1940 pushbuttons (likely from model no. 980620 radio) appear to be the same as all 1941's (model 980650) and likely the same as 1942. In 1946 Buick had two different radios: model 980690 had pushbuttons the same as the 1941-1942 models. This radio was on Buick car models 40, 60, and 90. A second 1946 radio (980744) was used on Buick car models 50 and 70 and that one had the sloped buttons. They may fit but they are incorrect on a radio with the square pushbuttons. Other models from 1947-1948 (980745, and 980798) had the sloped pushbuttons. I have not tried to put a sloped pushbutton on a radio that had square ones.
  13. The same buttons were used over very few years. Buttons can look similar but differ in details such as a straight or sloping front profile. I will give you some specifics a bit later when I have access to my radios. In the meantime you will find lots of mostly correct information here: https://sites.google.com/site/identifyingcarradios/home/radios-1/buick-1 This extensive site is a depository for information on ALL brands of car radios. The link brings you to the Buick section.
×
×
  • Create New...