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About Roadmaster71

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/30/1949

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Hope Valley, Rhode Island
  • Interests:
    Old Cars
    Amateur Radio
    Radio Restoration

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  1. This link to a previous discussion may help you out:
  2. Nicely done, Robby. Did you use off the shelf paint and primer or a custom mix? Any details on what you used would be much appreciated.
  3. Has anyone heard about someone making their own inspection cover for the 1941 cars? I was also surprised when I went searching for it in my ‘41 Roadmaster and could not find it. Very disappointed . I suspect they may have been thinking about retaining the integrity of the glued down sound deadening material.
  4. I have a 1941 with a different gauge (charge + on right, discharge - on left) but I believe the response of any gauge should be the same upon startup and shutoff. I have a short video that shows how I think it should work: I also do not see a strong charge when revving the engine. I suspect that if the battery is already well charged revving should not show a charge surge because the voltage regulator prevents that. Also I agree there should be no electrical draw with the engine off and the ignition switch in the off position. The spark test you did
  5. I would be interested in finding a good source for black ribbed mat. I have a 1941 Roadmaster and my mat crumbled when I removed it to have new floorboards welded in. I understand there is a reproduction mat available fo my car but at $500 it’s just not worth it to me.
  6. The trimmer adjustment is from an access hole on the back of the radio. Try that first. As mentioned above your antenna should be fully extended. Be careful about the garage, though. Always put the antenna back down before entering the garage if you back in or when backing out if you usually drive in front first. (guess how I figured that one out!). Have all of the capacitors been replaced with modern ones? Have the values of the resistors been checked? Have all the tubes been removed and their pins cleaned (a little contact cleaner and several insert / remove / insert actions will h
  7. You are welcome. I added a photo to the last post to show my Fuel Delivery Apparatus. Ken Carr
  8. I have the same problem if I leave the car sitting for over 7 days. My solution is to prime the carburetor. I remove the float sight screw from the side of the front carburetor and trickle in a few ounces of gasoline. I use a plastic soda straw (end cut on an angle) as a funnel. I also place a rag around the carburetor while pouring to catch the screw in case I drop it. I have not dropped it yet. The car starts easily. This is much safer than pouring fuel down the throat of the carburetor. Also to help starting I installed new 00 thickness positive and negative battery
  9. My experience is with the 1941 only: With the ignition switch off push the pedal to the floor once or twice. Next: For cold engine turn on ignition and depress accelerator half way. Engine starts. For warm engine: turn on ignition and depress pedal to floor and hold until it starts.
  10. I have seen the 1942 shop manual online for free download in a couple places. Unfortunately you must download one page at a time. If you are looking for information on only one system that is easy to do. Go to this link: http://buick.oldcarmanualproject.com/manuals/1942/Buick shop manual/index.html#google_vignette. I attached a sample page to this posting. The Old Car Manual Project site that hosts the manual is, in my opinion, a legitimate site. They fully discuss contribution guidelines. I once tried to get copyright information from GM regarding some 1941 material I owned. Over a peri
  11. I can tell you how I tested the vacuum starter switch on my 1941 Buick. I don’t know how similar they are. Mine is attached to the front carburetor. The throttle rod that chokes the carb when you press on the accelerator pedal passes all the way through the carb and terminates inside the vacuum switch. The rod has an eccentric on it. When the pedal is pushed to the half way point the eccentric releases a ball within the switch and that makes the contact between the two wires going to the vacuum switch. As soon as the engine starts the newly created engine vacuum sucks away the ball
  12. That looks good to me. Nice work. Is that twine that you used or maybe the reed used to cane chairs? My wheel is unfortunately too far gone for this. I am considering body filler and spray paint. Otherwise it’s a whole new wheel at over $1,000.
  13. Your Buick looks wonderful! I showed it to my wife. Her comment was “I like the yellow.” A photo of her daily driver is attached.
  14. The link that Matt suggests is a good place to go. I also recommend that you look in the shop manual, page 12-44 and page 12-45.
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