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About Roadmaster71

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/30/1949

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Rhode Island
  • Interests:
    Old Cars
    Amateur Radio
    Radio Restoration

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  1. My jack has traces of green along with part of the original decal on it. I have seen several others painted green. Although I read somewhere that these also came in black it appears that green was the predominant color.
  2. It looks great, Neil. I like your attention to detail! I have a way to go with the wiring. The harness is ‘in place’. Connections come next.
  3. Great news, Neil! All you have to do is button it up. I am probably a week behind you. I am still removing wires from under the hood. I identify and label as I go. Your postings are truly helpful and encouraging! Thanks for all your help.
  4. Neil, I am following your every move. I truly appreciate you taking the time to post all the details of the project here. I just started the install of my wiring harness a couple of days ago. I am still taking things apart. I’m on the light switches now (cramped in there). Keep it coming. Thanks!
  5. I have seen a video where the craftsman mounted the panel on a rotisserie-style frame. He previously covered the piece with a grid (used a permanent marker) that marked the center for each machining process. An alternative would be to make an indexing jig for the horizontal and vertical movements of the drill press. This YouTube video may be helpful if someone wanted to make a new ‘skin’ of aluminum, machine it, and then cement it to the panel.
  6. I have no experience with a 1927 Buick but I suspect there was crossover with other makes. I once owned a 1947 Mercury station wagon and everything under the fabric roof was built very much as yours is. The long slats (I remember there being about 13 of them) were made of basswood which is a softwood. The side rails and front and rear headers were made of maple that was made of thick laminated pieces.They were joined with complicated finger joints and bolts that were countersunk and then plugged with wooden dowels. You can copy the pieces exactly as previous posters recommended. That is preferable. A good carpenter can do this if you preserve and possibly make dimensional drawings of the pieces. Another method that some people do is to replace the frame and header members with oversize solid wood timbers. Then plane, shape, and sand them to the exact contours of the original piece
  7. I do not have a 1935 Buick, mine is a 1941. I can say that the setup looks similar. In my case the rod stays in the hole because there is a right angle spring steel fastener that joins the two. It wraps around the rod on both sides of the vent attachment. I was able to remove mine by prying at it with a screwdriver. It looks like yours is missing. A photo is below. If you can’t find this part you may be able to find a small tubing extender (like you sometimes find joining together rods going to a carburetor) with a small screw stop threaded into the side
  8. If you need additional details I recommend the book Restoration Facts, 1941 Buick by Anderson. Here is a link to the author's website: Anybody who owns a 1941 Buick should have this book.
  9. Champion 00 is what I use after reading an extensive discussion on this site. It has a nice spout so you can pour it easily. Such mixtures have been called knuckle grease.. Amazon has it: If I find the link to that 2018 discussion I will post it here.
  10. My paint code indicates that the car was originally black. It is now two-tone green. As best I can determine the upper is Mermaid Green (580) and the lower is Ludington Green (570). The car was repainted many years ago. I have no history on it. The paint chip page for this car indicates that it was offered with code 575 (upper Ludington, lower English Green) or code 579 (upper Mermaid green, lower Cedar green). Neither of these match my car, assuming my eyes and those of a local automotive paint shop specialists are correct. My engine bay is the same as the lower color (Ludington green). The chart you have indicates that Sherwin Williams 9205 will work (or Dupont 93-20952 or 246-53407). My local paint guy never found that. He estimates (by comparing chips he has) that it is close to (and this is what he wrote down): Deck #6-1-01 Prospecto-, Chip # 6-1-2345-00, Paint Code - ESQ, car: Citroen. He will mix that and then adjust by sight to my car. (I need to bring him a panel.) A couple photos of my car are attached for reference. My question is similar to yours: were custom two-tones available or did the factory always stick to what is written in the paint charts and catalogs? Did someone repaint my car 'the way they wanted it to look' or were they copying something that was available as an unadvertised option? (Note: my wheels are black. With this color combination it looks like they should be maybe Ludington Green with a Cream stripe?)
  11. My '41 fuel pump was leaking from one of the many screws that hold on the diaphragm section. The man who rebuilt it put a heli-coil and it has held nicely. If you don't want to order a whole batch of them just go to a local machine shop and see if they will sell you one or two. They always have them on hand in the tool room. Regarding JB Weld, I once cut through a seized fitting that was on an outdoor water hose spigot. Unfortunately I managed to cut through an outer thread on the spigot. I then covered the thread and small hole with JB-Weld, lightly screwed on the garden hose, and then removed the hose. The next day the hose went on nicely. There is a tiny but acceptable leak, though. Way better than before.
  12. Charlie Nash, VP of the Westerly-Pawcatuck region has posted part III of his ongoing restoration of his wife's new car. He took plenty of plenty of photos and posted all the details to our club blog. You can check it out here: Please feel free to leave comments. This will encourage Charlie to continue to share his work. He is meticulous in all that he does and he is a good writer. Check it out!
  13. You may want to check to see if the wire that supplies the positive voltage from the meter is good. Run a temporary wire from the positive supply of the meter to the gauge. That 3 volts may jump to 6 and solve the problem. If it does and the gauge works you will need to replace the wire currently in the car. Also, without installing the sending unit at all you should be able to work it through its range by lifting and lowering the float to see if the gauge responds properly. Just have ground and supply properly connected. To test your ground point (where you cleaned it) attach one end of the ohm meter to that ground and the other via a long jumper wire (maybe no. 16 size) to the battery ground strap. It should read close to 0 ohms.
  14. Be sure to call Skip first. I last spoke with him at Hershey in October. At that time he still had not resumed manufacture of the parts. He advised that I check back often to see if he is up and running again.
  15. Mine came in email a couple days ago. Try this link: