Roadmaster71

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About Roadmaster71

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/30/1949

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    http://www.idlenot.com
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    ke1ri@yahoo.com

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Rhode Island
  • Interests:
    Old Cars
    Amateur Radio
    Radio Restoration
    Kayaking

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  1. If you are running just the GPS you should get a full day (say 6 hours) out of it. If you run the CB alone and leave it in receive only you should also be good for most of the day. If you do any transmitting you will likely run the battery down in an hour or so. Running both at the same time is not likely to last long. Give it a test and see what you get. The suggestions for computing your amp hour use are good. I really like the step up transformer suggestion, especially if you intend to use the radio and GPS often. I bring one of those 12 volt jumper batteries along just to run my cell phone or a GPS on some occasions. I only plug in as needed.
  2. I don’t know if this answers your question but please check pages 12-26 and 12-27 of the service manual. I have attached a photo.
  3. Looks good Neil. I especially like the light. That’s a smart solution, making it fused. I noticed your nice floor mat. Is that the original or did you buy repro.?
  4. Very nice! That warm weather you have certainly helps. No salt on your roads. Up here in New England it’s another story. The car looks great.
  5. I have attached a photo of my jack. This is the way I purchased it, used. I have every reason to believe that the remaining paint is correct. If you look closely inside the rim support at the top you will also see the remains of the original yellow decal.
  6. Interesting discussion. Whoever worked on my car before I owned it disconnected the vacuum switch. They installed a starting push button and a disconnect switch which I always had to turn on before starting. There is supposed to be a redundant system that prevents the car from cranking after it starts even if the vacuum switch hangs up. I don’t recall the details but I suspect it as Ben described. I have a new carb installed with a functioning vacuum switch so I want to try out the original system. A couple of my friends who have the same system run a starting button to the vacuum switch just in case it gets stuck open. I may do that also. Thanks for the comments.
  7. I just looked closely at the shop manual. It seems to me that the two terminals on the side of the relay are connected to either end of the same winding which when energized switches in power to the larger starter motor coil. So, the contacts should be continuous with each other at all times. That’s my guess.
  8. I am installing a new engine and dash wiring harness in my 1941 Buick. While inspecting my work I noticed that the two contacts on the starter solenoid relay (one connects to vacuum switch on carburetor and other goes to voltage regulator G terminal) are closed, even with nothing attached to them (and no battery in place). Are these 'normally closed' contacts? (note: the engine started just fine before I started this project so I suspect the relay is OK. I just need to know I didn't mess anything up.)
  9. My jack has traces of green along with part of the original decal on it. I have seen several others painted green. Although I read somewhere that these also came in black it appears that green was the predominant color.
  10. It looks great, Neil. I like your attention to detail! I have a way to go with the wiring. The harness is ‘in place’. Connections come next.
  11. Great news, Neil! All you have to do is button it up. I am probably a week behind you. I am still removing wires from under the hood. I identify and label as I go. Your postings are truly helpful and encouraging! Thanks for all your help.
  12. Neil, I am following your every move. I truly appreciate you taking the time to post all the details of the project here. I just started the install of my wiring harness a couple of days ago. I am still taking things apart. I’m on the light switches now (cramped in there). Keep it coming. Thanks!
  13. I have seen a video where the craftsman mounted the panel on a rotisserie-style frame. He previously covered the piece with a grid (used a permanent marker) that marked the center for each machining process. An alternative would be to make an indexing jig for the horizontal and vertical movements of the drill press. This YouTube video may be helpful if someone wanted to make a new ‘skin’ of aluminum, machine it, and then cement it to the panel.
  14. I have no experience with a 1927 Buick but I suspect there was crossover with other makes. I once owned a 1947 Mercury station wagon and everything under the fabric roof was built very much as yours is. The long slats (I remember there being about 13 of them) were made of basswood which is a softwood. The side rails and front and rear headers were made of maple that was made of thick laminated pieces.They were joined with complicated finger joints and bolts that were countersunk and then plugged with wooden dowels. You can copy the pieces exactly as previous posters recommended. That is preferable. A good carpenter can do this if you preserve and possibly make dimensional drawings of the pieces. Another method that some people do is to replace the frame and header members with oversize solid wood timbers. Then plane, shape, and sand them to the exact contours of the original piece
  15. I do not have a 1935 Buick, mine is a 1941. I can say that the setup looks similar. In my case the rod stays in the hole because there is a right angle spring steel fastener that joins the two. It wraps around the rod on both sides of the vent attachment. I was able to remove mine by prying at it with a screwdriver. It looks like yours is missing. A photo is below. If you can’t find this part you may be able to find a small tubing extender (like you sometimes find joining together rods going to a carburetor) with a small screw stop threaded into the side