Coronet440

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Everything posted by Coronet440

  1. Also, if anyone is interested in a throttle body off of a 3.3 motor (52 mm opening rather than 48 mm, bolts right on), let me know. Happy to sell that too.
  2. Been pulling all sorts of trim pieces of the TC's, most of it is in excellent shape. If anyone is looking for anything, let me know. I'm willing to ship if buyer pays shipping.
  3. One 90, one "91." 90 is white, tan interior, and 91 is red, tan interior. Have hardtops for both. I was selling these earlier but when no one would offer even $2,000 for then both (a real shame, given how well the white one drove. I really kept up the mechanics) I just proceeded to drive it daily as I have for the past 2 years. Too late now, nature took its course and a buck jumped out at the passenger side fender. Still drives, but now windshield has a crack in the bottom passenger side, Fender, front bumper, and hood are all quite banged up, and lost a headlamp assembly. I'm going to rip the more desirable pieces off these cars to hold on to or sell and scrap the rest, but figured I'd give folks here one last chance to have at pieces or the lot as a whole. I'll do $1,000 on the 2 cars. Between them, there is enough good trim and panels for a complete car, just needs paint to match. Red one has no transmission. There are 3 headlights between the 2 cars. Both are located in Northern VA. I'm getting an El Camino Saturday, so after that I'll be looking to get rid of the TCs ASAP. I'll miss the car, always liked my old LeBaron more though.
  4. The only point I'll note with a conversion is that on glass lenses, it's easy for ice to build up. LED bulbs may not put out much heat and it would be possible for them to freeze over in colder climates. Not a huge deal, but apparently huge enough for Volvo and other companies to put wipers on their headlights with glass lenses.
  5. I also have several parts for sale, if you're interested, I probably have it in the parts car. Just make an offer.
  6. Full listing up on Craigslist now: http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/5876562320.html
  7. Well, I hate to do it, I love the car, but my work and the condition of my car make it difficult to do anything other than maintain its current state. It's in Fair/Good condition. It was repainted once I believe. Lots of new parts just in the past year or so, perhaps the best thing I did to it was swap in a later (1993) 3.0 V6, now with just 70k miles on it, in replacement of the smoke machine that was in it before. If you know about these 3.0's, they made some great improvements in '92 that effectively eliminated the notorious smoking. This engine runs like a champ and I change fluids regularly. Its on its third Transmission, first one was replaced under warrenty back in '94, then again replaced when reverse went out earlier this year. I replaced all rotors, calipers, pads, alternator, and I've got an Optima Yellowtop in it at the moment. Speedo cable probably needs cleaning and ABS light is always on, otherwise everything on the dash works, radio and speakers work (though I think the dash speakers are dead). Working on fixing the pull-down mechanism, I have all the parts, just been so busy I haven't put it back together with the new switch. I have the hardtop with cart. I have an aftermarket set of wheels on it, but I have (believe it or not) 3 sets of original wheels for this thing. One without tires, one with tires, and one with a car... as in a parts car - a whole '91 TC, exotic red. So yes, this listing is for 2 TC's, one only good for parts. In addition, I have several other pieces such as extra drivers seat, door panel, so much to list. All bulbs on the driven TC work, all power features work. Interior condition is perhaps a 5/10... dash is great, but seats and center console could use some reupholstery. Too much more to put here, if interested, feel free to ask questions, or text or call (571-274-8646). I've had it for a year and a half, but moving on to a Dodge Rampage, as it is more practical to drive in my line of work. Will post pics later.
  8. I think a new column needs to be added to this list so we can keep track of the living and the dead. I've been watching Craigslist and cross-referencing it to this list, may be another good way to pull in more vins.
  9. How bizarre, strangely enough my parts car pull down assembly has the same issue, which is why I didn't question it at first. I don't know how or why, but somehow the bracket for that pin has gotten twisted on both of them and allowed the pins to slip by the 11 o'clock hook. I wonder if this is the mysterious cause of many people's tops where the electrical fixes don't seem to resolve anything...
  10. I bought an identical GM trunk pull down switch (ACDelco 16629927 GM Original Equipment Trunk Lid Pull Down Switch, it's used for a variety of Cadillac for several model years, according to various suppliers, but looks identical to our part in pictures). Reaper, that bottom hook (6 o'clock) catches the arm that extends and retracts from the left that comes from the pull down motor assembly (which I have removed at the moment, as I assume it is not used for the manual process). In turning the nut from the trunk, the pin at the 1 o'clock seems to interact with either the hook at 11 o'clock or the hook at 10 o'clock, but it looks like the 11 o'clock hook is worn from having the pin slide across it instead of catching it. The bracket that the pin is on is bent slightly to where, with a ton of force, it might be possible to slide it over, but the bracket is such a thick piece that it would shock me if it isn't supposed to be bent because I wouldn't have any idea how it got like that. I can take more pictures if it would help to explain.
  11. Here we go. Does this look right? The pins are in the latches, but won't pull down tight even with the pulldown bracket adjusted as low as possible. I feel like I need to use far too much force in order to get anything to pull down. Does this look right? I've ordered a replacement paddle switch which will hopefully resolve my electrical issues, but I'm concerned about it mechanically.
  12. I've tried several times to upload a picture but I keep getting error messages. Will try uploading on a similar thread or posting elsewhere and linking.
  13. Just wondering if this is the right positioning of the pull-down mechanism. It seems odd that the pin off of the manual top release isn't nested between the 2 hooks but rather to the right of both hooks when looking at it from the trunk. Is that correct? I'll try to upload a picture
  14. 201285, for sale on CL in Pennsylvania. They've done some naughty things to it. http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/5611784342.html
  15. Are these found anywhere? I plan on going to chrysler nationals at carlisle on Saturday, maybe they'd have some sort of replacement there?
  16. Hello, been having an issue with my top pull down on a 90 v6. I tried to latch it the other day and went to push the button, i could hear it operate but nothing was observed. Tried operating again, and wouldn't do anything in either direction. Only thing I could hear was a delayed click, which I assumed to be the delay relay that allows you to tap the pull down button rather than hold. I tried holding and tapping, many times, and could only hear that relay click any time I tried to push the down toggle. I would hear nothing when I pushed it up. I took it out and took it apart, based on feedback from other posts which suggested it could be the gear or housing. I harvested the mechanism from my parts tc (a 91) which was identical and it looked to be in great shape. Took them both apart completely, changed out grease, cleaned all connections with sandpaper and electric parts cleaner, took the best parts from both pull downs and reassembled it. Installed it and gave it a test without latching the top and by golly it did it again. Functioned once going down, and then I could get nothing more than an audible click of the delay relay. Gear is great, housing isn't cracked, I cleaned up the motor and it isn't binding, and clearly it's getting power from the pull-down switch (I put multimeter to it just to be sure, both positions when pushing the switch show power off the main harness that connects to the pull down harness) the metal cased relay has some rust on the housing and terminals, and both of those relays that I have look to be in the same condition. I tried swapping relays and swapping harnesses with no change in performance. The paddle switch looks okay on the outside, but who knows what's going on inside. Does this sound like a power relay issue, or something else? I would say maybe it's the paddle switch, except that the motor isn't doing anything, so that switch isn't even getting activated.
  17. My daily driver, ZC2FS1204LB205203 1990, It's the yellowish white with tan interior, V6. My parts car, 1991 ZC2FS120XMB207765. Red exterior, tan interior, V6.
  18. Where in VA? I'm quite interested and live in the northern part of the state. I'd like to check it out.
  19. Does anyone have the specs of the speakers? Specifically rms wattage, diameter of speakers, and power of the amplifiers on the speakers? I wanna replace them because they're dying, but I'm not certain whether I should thrown in a new system or if its possible to find amped speakers to replace the dead ones?
  20. Mine always reads about 4-5 mph higher than what I'm actually going as well. I've wondered if its because the needle got turned out of place.
  21. Thank you 89TC, I have a 93 LeBaron With same engine sitting in the front of my house that was my DD before I got this TC and it has 4 wheel disc brakes. It already donated its engine, amond other things, and the brake conversion is somewhere on the agenda. I may as well move spindles too since the car is 2 years newer and has half the miles.
  22. I can't seem to get the bearings tightened right, either too loose or too tight it seems. Regardless, I want to go through and replace as much as a I can. Being in the rust belt, I'd like some fresh iron to replace what I can and then spray it with something resistant like Zinc-it.