Jump to content

Big Norm

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Recent Profile Visitors

268 profile views

Big Norm's Achievements

  • Collaborator

Recent Badges



  1. if you get stuck i have a complete alternator here which worked when i pulled it off and using the paintjob as a guide i'd guess has been rebuilt not so long ago.
  2. depending on how original you want to go here in Perth we have several people who can apply an aftermarket whitewall to any tyre. i have a machine to do it also. perhaps try a set of flappers and if you like the look then get it permanently done. its not as good as the real thing but it might save you a thousand.
  3. sorry to distract. question on lingo from someone in another part of the planet; what is "autocrossing"?
  4. i've got a couple of lenses here in perth you can have. they're not mint but they're pretty good. if they're better than yours then you are welcome to them.
  5. thank you gents. thats what i needed to know.
  6. i did an apprenticeship just short of 30 years ago when automotive technology in australia was making the blind, misguided leap from carb to efi and all of sudden it mattered how much fuel we used and what came out the tailpipe. there was a lot going on at the time and car makers had lots of temporary technology to get your head around. alot of that knowledge, whilst important at the time is now mostly irrelevant. for several years i've run my own business and there still isnt a day where i dont learn anything new. i've built several trophy winning show cars and successfully raced in 2 different motorsports. even now, i recently bought this buick, beautiful car and you would think by its age that its all simple technology. i couldnt be more wrong, its nothing like anything i'm familiar with. i'm like an apprentice again at the base of a massive learning curve. i'm loving it. i love what i do and for that reason like to think that im good at it. i reckon my body will fail me long before my passion. not sure i agree with the statement about having a plan and strictly sticking to it. i prefer to think there is always an easier, better and more efficient way of doing things. i love Ed's three T's line and can relate to it 110%. the best thing i can suggest that hasn't been mentioned already is dont be afraid. the fact that you're interested and keen to learn already puts you a millions miles in front of a lot of highly-trained people. no such thing as a stupid question and there are plenty of people around who will always answer anything you've got. cars are just a bunch of nuts and bolts and there is nothing to be afraid of. nothing is complicated if you break it down into several smaller jobs. lastly, cars like any machine were designed, built and assembled by a another person. they pull their pants on one leg at a time just like you do. they're not super-human, nor do you need to be to repair their stuff. good luck!!
  7. hi, i have to set up an aftermarket fuel guage and i have to program the ohm readings for the fuel guage. did i read somewhere correctly that a 63 riv is a 0-45ohm fuel sender? if so, does it measure 45ohms when its full or empty? cheers
  8. this is all interesting to know as i've mounted my temp sender in the same place. this was mainly for aesthetics as its much easier to hide than up the front. i dont have the idiot light anymore so i've put a bung on the front port. i'd be interested to know how you go with temp difference once you fire it up. my engine is at least a week or so away from starting otherwsie i'll let you know how i go
  9. yeah i think i'm going to be busy over the next few weekends polishing aluminium to get a matching finish. when you say redo the dash, do you mean painting it? the second display read-out cycles between trip-A, trip-B and a clock. its also where it displays the shifter position. not 100% sure of all this as i havent powered it up yet but thats what i'm told in the book. the 8000rpm tacho is a little ambitious but i suppose it suits any engine combo.
  10. good evening people, i should probably start a new thread on this as i envisage it growing. this may annoy a few of the purists but rivieras arent exactly common in australia so replacement bits are practically nil and importing bits from the US is ridiculously expensive and slow. Australia Post is an embarressment. anyways my car is hardly original so using modified aftermarket stuff is the difference between it being out on the road or stuck under a blanket somewhere. from everyone's response here the VA setup is the way to go and i have the in-cabin bits on order. while i'm waiting i used a march performance serpentine belt drive kit to mount an air con compressor and replace the noisy, leaking power steering pump. i love these kits and have used them several times on several different brands. only bad thing i can say about it is it makes everything around it look ordinary. not sure if people have seen these before so just thought i'd share what it looks like. my instrument cluster was a dud too. speedo head would squeak and shake over 20mph, we in australia are kmh. plus i needed to add a gear selector for registration as i have a custom shifter. lastly the previous owner fitted 3 different guages into the console. no two guages are same style or brand and i hated the look so wanted to delete them. less is more. i've fitted a dakota digital guage set to my cluster. again, this is how they look. not as stylish as the original but it will do the job well. next is to tidy up all the ugly wiring everywhere and plate up the firewall.
  11. sounds all too easy. follow which thread? everything engine bay-wise i think i have under control now that i've overcome the desire to go original. theres loads of room to mount a universal condensor and receiver, the compressor i'm mounting via a serp belt setup and the rest i'll tackle when i get that far. my main dramas were with inside the car. i've got a VA Gen IV evaporator box on order which should be here in a few days and i'll then work it out how i'll make this happen. i'm thinking i'll figure out the fans etc and try to utilise the original slider switches by fitting a bunch of microswitches. the car is far from original and standard however i'd prefer to maintain an original appearance of sorts and keep the mods subtle and hidden. i'm at the bottom of a tremendous learning curve so thanks very much for all your help.
  12. thanks a heap everyone. the vintage air seems to be the way to go then which pleases me because the factory setup looks tremendously over complicated and might be a touch unreliable. i contacted VA a while ago regarding this and they didnt seem terribly interested so i'll do a bit more homework and try again. Chris/Alini - that looks great. plating up the firewall is well within my scope of skills and i have plenty of time to get it right.
  13. Hey everyone, Apologies in advance for the length of this post, the number of questions and my lengthy rambling on. i've recently bought a 63 4747 series, which unbeknown to me at the time has had a less than ordinary rebuild in its lifetime. Stupid me should've done more research on the car before i bought it but i have it now and will have to sort it out. For the most of it, its ok but when it got too hard it was just slapped back together, which brings me to this post. To get it roadworthy in the eyes of the local authorities it needs to have a working demister and this heater core had been previously disconnected i'm assuming because it leaks plus one of the outlets crushed. i figured while i was there i would refit the air con. Before undertaking the job i read alot of online literature/forums and bought the manual to study as much as i could but I still have some blanks which I hope you gurus here can fill in for me. Getting the heater core out wasnt as bad as i thought it would be as it turns out that the original air con and much of the heater has been completely deleted. It did however raise many questions along the way. All the control cables were bunched and tied up, all the ducting is missing, all the vacuam diaphragms and actuators are missing plus all the electrical componentry and wiring is gone too. 1) My horn doesnt work at the steering wheel and i'm assuming its due to the horn bar floating around and the top of the column worn away(see attached pic) from the little dicky bit on the steering wheel. is there a repair for this? 2) theres a foot long speedo like cable coming off the back of the guages which isnt connected to anything. what is it? 3) the fusebox is dangling under the dash and has been taped up so it doesnt make contact with anything. how does it mount? 4) The manual labels a buzzer behind the instuments, the car has one but not sure if it works. what does it do? 5) How is the heater core held into it's pod? see pic. It rusty and fragile and i didnt want to pry or force anything. Lastly, can anyone help me or point me in the right direction where i can acquire all the missing bits to get the air con and heater back in? and willing to ship to australia? some easy to find bits i have but the rest i'm struggling. if you can box it up i can arrange collection and shipping. i just need pretty much all of it firewall inside and out. any help is greatly appreciated.
  14. thanks for the replies. looks a little more complicated then first envisioned. i ordered both manuals you mentioned several weeks ago and believe they're on thier way. i've also ordered an owners manual so i can learn what all the levers and buttons do as alot of mine do. i'm in australia so things take a while to get here. i've only just bought the car a few weeks ago and despite owning several decent cars before this one is the flagship. i've got a lot to do plus a lot more to learn before its ready to road register. i'll do an official introduction of myself as soon as i figure out the forum layout and where i shouild be putting it.
  • Create New...