s_hilmoe

Here is the "process" as described by Diamondback tires. It not glued on per se but vulcanized to the tire. Tire Making Process Interested in our tire making process? Great! There are really two ways to make a white wall radial tire. You can do it while you’re actually making the tire or you can add the white wall to a finished tire as a final step. Remember, white rubber is just ornamental and has nothing to do with strength or performance. The advantage to adding it after the tire is made is that you can put a whitewall or color stripe on any tire you want, including 17″, 18″ and 20″ tires — and with much tighter quality control. The versatility is endless and tires are all current production. This is how we do it at Diamond Back. We’re simply the “final step”. We start by mounting the new tire on a special machine that spins it at high speed. Using our own attachments, we rough up the sidewall surface so it is no longer perfectly smooth. Because of the accuracy of our preparatory machine, and because it turns at such a high RPM, any abnormalities of the tire can be spotted immediately. Because we use major manufacturers our rejection rate is near zero. An entire section of our plant is devoted to the vulcanization equipment that makes the white wall a permanent part of the tire. Because the vulcanization process is so effective, if you tried to separate the white wall from the tire afterward, the tire itself would become damaged. It’s a marriage that lasts forever…a very permanent bond. So if you forget everything else, just remember that once the white wall is vulcanized to the tire, it’s on there forever (just try pulling one off the tire sometime). After vulcanization, the material has to be trimmed to the exact desired width, depending on what you order. Whether it be a 3 ¾” white wall for a ’58 Cadillac, or a 3/8” redline for a ’65 Corvette it makes no difference. The fronts and rears can be matched in white wall width even if your tires are different sizes (as with hot rod big & little combinations). That’s the nice part about trimming each white wall or redline to order. We can also ensure that whitewalls widths are proportionately correct front and rear. For example – a smaller front tire will have the same percentage of white wall on the sidewall as a larger rear tire, and even though the front and rear whitewalls will be of different widths, they remain proportionately correct and aesthetically pleasing to all admirers of your ride! All of our finishers are equipped with laser guides so that all widths are held to close tolerances. Once the trimming is complete, a series of finishing steps in the final process makes them nice and smooth. Another advantage to high speed finishing is that it immediately shows us if there’s any kind of problem with the tire’s trueness (runout). The operator can spot it right away and he simply rejects the tire. It seldom happens.

I may have something for you. It's a 320 out of a '49 Roadmaster 4dr. Supposedly a fairly recent rebuild. I did have it running before I removed it. It ran well but needed a carb rebuild. I have it sitting in my garage on a cart. In Portland Oregon area.

https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/pts/d/1941-buick-front-fenders-and/6542134297.html Says no dents, ready to bolt on.

Thanks guys for the info about where to get stuff. Right now the plan is to get water leaks fixed. The rear window seal has been neglected for far too long and has caused some rust inside. Door seals are not much better. At least they share the same seals as the Chevy so those items are easy to get. I'll get the critical things fixed on it and then drive it while I'm working on the '49 Roadmaster. After the '49 is done I plan on a ground up rebuild of the '61.

That's the one! I got it for a better price. :-) It needs a little work now but you can tell it was cared for in the past.

I picked up a '61 Invicta bubble top this weekend from the Portland PIR Swap Meet. I had a convertible in college many years ago and have always missed it. Almost any 61 GM car is beautiful but I really have a fondness for the Buick. Car appears to be last drive about 2003/4 in Seattle. Runs good except for a slight lifter noise. (I'll have to check that out). Minor minor rust showing from some old repairs will have to be fixed too. This one will stay stock except for maybe period aftermarket wheels if I can find some that look nice with it. The optional Invicta hubcaps looks pretty nice too. What are some good places to find parts for this car? Cars is the only one I have found so far. I use Bob's for my older stuff. Does anyone do reproduction upholstery for this vintage? At least it shares many weatherstripping items with the Chevy, I have some on the way. So far I have driven it around the block a couple times (Still need to register it). I love how smooth these cars are.

Ad deleted by author.. Somebody buy it?

This guy has several NOS Vintage Buick fenders for sale on eBay. I was able to score a pair of NOS '49 Roadmaster fenders for my Sedanette. He even ships nation wide. https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=buick&_ssn=lal57&_armrs=1&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=buick+fender&_sacat=0

If I had a place to put it I would seriously be looking at it.

https://yakima.craigslist.org/cto/d/1942-buick-limited-4dr/6541940142.html I'd love to have something like this someday!

Looking for a Cadet or similar external windshield visor to fit my '49 Roadmaster Sedanette. Looks similar to the one pictured. I don't really like the Fulton style. Thank you, Scott Milwaukie, OR

I looked at that car a couple plus years ago when I was looking for one. IIRC he wanted over $20k for it. AT least he's come down a bit.

Here are a few pics of the fuel pump on my spare '49 320 engine. These are just real quick shots from tonight. If they help or you need another view, let me know.

All-Cads sells a new stronger version that they claim will never need to be replaced. They have left, right, convertible, coupe, fastback, etc. It looks very nice. http://www.allcads.com/product/New-164796560

Looking great!

From what I've found on the web, the 55 Century had a 3:42 option. Thanks guys!

Removed the cover on the rear today. I was expecting 4:10 gears but found 3:42s in it! ( 41ring gear -12pinion, .). I have a '41 super that really needs a better gear ratio than the 4:10 that is in it now. So, I'm going to keep the center section to put into the '41. That is if the 49 pumpkin will fit a 41 torque tube etc. Will these swap right out?

I'll check it out today.

I have a complete rear end out of a '49 Roadmaster available. Complete from drum to drum. Also has the e-brake cable and shocks. If you are interested I can pull cover for more pictures. Asking $200 for it. I'm not sure if that is the going rate for these old rears, if that is out of line, please let me know. In the SE Portland Oregon area.

Here is a very simple explanation about using "torque angle" to tighten bolts. Dan O, Nice Roady!!! Love them sedanettes..

Buicks use lug bolts for the wheels. Studs are not used. Beemon posted a link to the correct bolt.

I may have a set available. I took them off a 4dr Roadmaster parts car. I have not mic'd them yet so I don't know for sure if they are still usable.

Good choice!

One trick an upholsterer told me was to start the install in the middle and work the wrinkles to the front and back. I did that on my 67 Impala that I restored and it worked great I ended up with no wrinkles at all with the vinyl headliner.

That car is cool! I would fix the mechanicals on it and drive it unrestored. Show up at a show wearing period clothes that are in the same condition as the car. Worn hat, holes in the shoes, torn suit. Wife wearing similar worn out dress. Make it a theme and have fun with it!!!