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Everything posted by ArticiferTom

  1. What the business name on side ? Would be great to see if still around .
  2. Great x 3 ! Well your way ahead if you drive it already . Do not be detered with 6 volt . It was done to keep cost down in it's day . When it comes to wire size just double for six volt . Do not know if it is pos or neg ground . That can get a little more confusing . Also as six volt needs larger wires ,it needs CLEANER connection, that are tight . Most problems occur there . Enjoy .
  3. Do a search in Tech . on freeing seized engine at very lest mmo or other in cylinders and pre-pressurize oil system even with a hand suction pump will get something in bearing . May want to drop pan first if it did not have oil in , or has water in it is a rebuild . TAKE it slow ,ask for help when needed , hate to see a vintage old engine go to waste .
  4. Is a tenon cutter but more likely for wheel spokes . They started with a cone cutter to center and finished with tenon cutter . it cut against to grain to make spoke to length after being driven to hub .
  5. Yeah , 31plymouth the cone i have is from a DRT maybe 181 model it is number 58A-34 . They all look to be the same . Where are the slots you see ? I wonder if number diff as to do with vacuum release strength of spring inside cone or something . If your interested in trading one of your 38's for a 34 . Since you say from 209's .
  6. Hello BB and all , man time flies . Well after my initial start up .by enlarging jet hole only . And the problem BB and Broker-Len had with fuel consumption ie running maybe rich . I decided to finish the idle tube mod to spec by reducing the economizer jet down two drill sizes . The carb had to come off anyway ,as i had noted intake and exhaust leaks at manifold . So had to order gaskets and then hand planed manifolds to within 20thou . A warp was most of my leak . Also added ferrules to exhaust tubes . Next was the leak at the exhaust pipe ,then at the clamps . I never had a tailpipe . Muff
  7. Your getting there . Better put a nylon stocking in or filter on top radaitor pipe before starting . Do not want a block their . Also will clean a lot when it starts running .
  8. Sorry not much help there . Did not know you had 12volt system . Figured it to be 6 vdc pos grd .
  9. The 6 volt coils are a common item at most auto or tractor stores . Also pretty cheap , but will have both wires on top . You may want to get a new one and sell that rare working one to someone with the ignition that takes it . I vote rebuild fuel pump #1 . However that looks to be a after market type B . Not that it makes much difference ,unless your going for strict oem parts , Like a few of us crazies ! . I have already rebuild aftermarket from my '31 196ci four cyl.,. but do not if compatible . Would be willing to sell . also extra new coil . Just not economical to ship coil .
  10. Nice , Did not expect it to be down draft carb . Looks like engine fuel pump is there but by-passed .?? Not a hard rebuild . unless you have cam problem . No sure on coil . May have something to do with mounting . Some from era where attached to back of ignition switch and stuck out behind dash . Coil wire when through cowl to distr.
  11. Lets see some engine pics . I am not to familiar with what all DeSoto offered . I assume you have no engine driven fuel pump on it ,but vacuum tank . Most try to make those work or use electric pump to prime and start . As not to have it pumping in case of emergency . My truck was first years they put on engine fuel pumps ,also water pumps .
  12. Any thoughts on what caused the failure of the rear . Components seem pretty beefy .
  13. Wow , moving along nicely . Your workmanship is a step above , for sure . That little spanner tool is that to load bearing or something ? Glad your enjoying . I do the same in quarantine every day . I'm high risk so stay home in retirement .
  14. Try this https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MoPar-fuel-tank-drain-plug-Mfg-1316670/254451420873?hash=item3b3e7c8ec9:g:DjIAAOSwmXtd8l81
  15. Either a 1/2" or 3/4" drive on ratchet or breaker bar . hard to get scale from pic .
  16. Try this . Make sure to have a well adjusted e-brake . test for hold and stopping . A little drag here and there would not hurt to get it to grab good . If new shoes; will wear . If not check heads of rivets .
  17. I believe he referring to stop at bottom , on frame . Not on glass . It is most likely just two layer thick rubber . Maybe more foam type rubber with stick on backing .
  18. Just take that long ear hair and grow it long enough to tie on top to MAN BUN . LOL ... STYLE .
  19. I do not know myself . I use the UNREAD CONTENT at the top of main page since I am on so much . This and notification keeps me up .
  20. You beat by "That Much " Jon .
  21. Go back to The Carb Shop LLC site and search info on passenger cars . It has all the info at your finger tips . Good luck.
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