ArticiferTom
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Posts posted by ArticiferTom
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Not sure what you mean . I backed off adjustment enough to have tappet not touching cam surface . Took a pry bar bump to move the little I got . Now moves easily back forth 3/16" Do not need to pull valves so am leaving head on . In process of cleaning oil galley system .
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Trying to remove cam . Remove two end bolts though cam gear . With bar a light pry it moved forward about 3/16" . Have valve tappet loosen out of way and oil and fuel pump out . Hits hard stop ... What am I missing ?
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NAPA stocks Stay-Lube 140w in US .
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Another problem going to have is rod bolts and nut where more modern one time disrupted thread . And have been un able to locate replacement of either original tee head with cotter pin hole or 2- 7/32 x 3/8 fine thread . Only few vendors list my size most by engines with none matching my 4 , there are probably 6's that cross I can not id . Best number can find is CRB481 and CRN454 . Any reference would grateful . Even old used cotterpin type .
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Here pic of cleaning up valve area . On right is valve backed off seems to cleared . Do not see any feed orifice so must get from below squirts and splash . You can see dam ares in pic I found also . It holds the level to lube tappets as you said , Keith . Thanks again .
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Thanks ,Pete , That's what I was trying to figure . So can blow out all orifices and channels . Will look in dams after cleaning to day . Have rags in absorbing know . Mine are little different then pic above in that on four cylinder it has dam behind valve tappets . But is hole on front side . Will get pic of what I find . backing off adjustment to remove cam now . Seems will not need to compress springs . Also mine is pressurized system .
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Great , thank for explanation . I wish my job was that easy . But my whole system is contaminated with babbitt from bad rod . I already removed crank and working to figure out cam ,my first ever engine tear down . Also need to pull crank upper shells . Any insight welcome ..
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On my L4 Plymouth behind each set of valve lifters is a dam of motor oil . What is it purpose ? And how done oil move through it ? Maybe cooling or something with running in to lifter guides , but what filled it .
I am in process of flushing whole oils system clean . Looks like all channels are below the lifter guides and splash gets above ?
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That or Thermocure . Same stuff but concentrated make 3 gallons . Half the price . Run in system couple weeks .
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Chilton list Model 72 as 7010 inner , and 6370 outer .
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That's a combo number .Timken site may split to bearing and race number .
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Next if ground is good . Clip VOM on while operating headlight check for voltage drop . Found 80 y.o. rivet joints read voltage but do not carry amps ,thus drop voltage .
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Did you change front flex hoses also . They rupture internally and limit stopping .
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Great , You should make contact with Henry and view his resto . His 31 panel UF-10 truck used Chrysler frame and CM suspension , Plymouth 4 engine ,and his it RHD . He is less then 1 hr from London I believe .
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Name of company is Speedy Cable .
8 hours ago, 31 LaSalle said:Are there any companies reproducing speedometer cables for 1928 Chrysler convertible coupe
would all the 72 series be the same
thank you
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There is company in England that reproduces any length or tips you need . Henry Boler had made for his 31 Dodge . I am checking with to get name . He has the You tube series on his restore goes by Hen -fab . British 31 Dodge .
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Have trouble getting clutch past fork arm on 30u type bellhousing with build in motor mount and pedal brackets . Trans remove ok . six bolts removed on clutch cover .
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Inner Timken 7011 , Outer 6986 Per Chilitons .
15 hours ago, allin13 said:I have a 1927 Chrysler model 50 Roadster. I need new wheel bearings.
The old numbers are Shafer 255 S21 R51 for the front bearings.
I can't find a conversion chart that list these numbers. Does anyone know the current Timken numbers for this Model 50? Also where I can buy them!
Thanks!
Allin
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Thanks , wish I got pic before paint . Mainely Magnetos .com in Maine .
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Does the front cam gear to mag and crank gears get lube from engine ?
There appears to be a small drain back hole to block . Or is it greased then left go ? After a short run we pulled front cover to access magneto removal and found dry . Help appreciated .
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Update on wheels . Did receive back on time ,actually had three done at $225 ea without them prepping or painting . Work looks great . Only notable difference is fellow is a little more squared on top making it heavier looking . Not a problem if you needed to match , that sandpaper would not handle . To much is better then to little . They left drilling hole for valve stem to us . They said could then match to stem type thickness . All in all owner is happy . Did get a little ride time on in fields before heat got to magneto and wouldn't allow starting . So that's is out for rebuild .
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Pics. needed .
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Jay , may have some repo made of aluminum . He is east coast ESTime , 5hrs less UK .
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What the HECK do you want that back in there for . Some Ash , Chicken wire and Long grain topping and make something respectable . LOL .
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Question on camshaft removal on '31 PLY 4 .
in Plymouth
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I was checking that as I turned cam by hand . Pic of valve with right half back off and drawing of engine .