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ArticiferTom

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Everything posted by ArticiferTom

  1. There is hoses on all lines . When one dries out usually all do . Rear are on same one at axle .
  2. Collapsed flex hoses maybe problem . Disconnect at head of each to check flow .
  3. Check the back for API label if it list any letter sets starting in S . that means gas , C is diesel . Rotella T3and T4 should have SN rating . https://www.shell-livedocs.com/data/published/en-US/718f5851-4880-43db-95a1-bbf45aeaca8f.pdf.
  4. Might the chlorine be a little to corrosive if it gets damp ? I would use bait boxes first . but usually avoid because of local cats . Just keep traps with peanut butter around . .
  5. A ceiling fan running all the time . it mixes temperature and humidity to it's lowest state in that environment . Lessens condensation . I use electric for heat to help keep air dry .
  6. Not exactly sure on '33's but Radiators prior years are non -pressurized system . That seal is on cap to keep fluid from getting on surround and hood . If you look you will probably see over flow tube is below cap seal . As opposed to modern ones between seal and top cap with it's spring pressure regulator . Most of time systems are just over filled if water is not coming boiling out . The level is between top of core and cap . You may have a metal deflector in yours to prevent rush from engine splashing . If you have it just coming over that low spot on mine it works good . If boiling is
  7. Ride'n home from the car show today in N>E>Pa . Cloudy but pretty .
  8. My BOI describes installing universal joint flange on to pinion splines until it's rear face ,contacts bearings front face . The universal joint flange is then locked rigidly in place by the nut on the front end . Since Broker found his finger tight and I found mine loosen, with the weight of my 3/4" breaker bar and socket ,just touching it . It does not need much more then , firmly , or a touch ,a skoch , finger weight .LOL.
  9. I would say it looks good too . Probably why they look a lot like Dodges . The Dodge trucks of that era where build by Graham Brothers co . The brothers left that company to WPC and formed up with Paige .
  10. Thanks , No I have my original on the truck with a modern core 1980's but together with original tanks and shroud . Just looking for someone sitting on some wall art , bad core radiator to use s a donor . As you see from pic this radiator rusted out the steel on bottom and damaged some of tank . But top was above ground and protected by the shell which is not pictured . It appears very salvageable .
  11. Looking to resurrect this original Fedders radiator , for my Dodge UF . Believe most shrouds of 30- 31 -32 Mopars to be similar . This is not the shell but part of radiator .
  12. No , not that easy . The '31 4 cylinders did not have . I have also seen taps in side corner driver side . Mine they used old coolant siphon hole cap and brazed in tap . On in side brazed tap in elbow reduction pipe from bottom radiator to water pump inlet .
  13. No , meesies up here Bhigdog . But three weeks ago , the wife caught 5 snakes, on the front porch and myself two in house in one day . How do they know when it is time to come in . Cats enjoys snakes more , not as fast I guess .
  14. Yes , Henry and my horns and seen a few others are the same .That pancake horn on earlier cars was mounted out on headlight bar . My bar still carries mount holes from production . They where moved inside, assume did not handle weather well out there . And latter used bugle style horns . The oil filters maybe found factory on larger cwt trucks . Dave may chime in knowing more on 3/4 , 1 tonners .
  15. Dried out or unpainted wheels need raw linseed oil . The boiled will harden and seal pores . You need to continually add raw until will not absorb any more . That should swell wood best it will get for years . unless baked out in sun . It is also going to darken color , but can be painted over with oil based paint .
  16. Fused base on wire size . my truck with one horn is 20 amp . Did have trouble with horn internal at one time . Solder joint loss and would ground out .
  17. On the drain . They would probable want just a grease trap if you bring it out to surface and not dump in storm sewer with you probable do not have . And the floor thickness is not for the weight of lift and load . It is for holding the anchors . I would do minimum 6 " pad in those areas . The drilling and driving anchors will be much easier and allow for opp's . I know this because ,I help a friend cut holes next to his leg where driving anchors broke bottom out. We then hand tunneled over to nut /bolt a plate . And patch floor . Next time he would do nothing less then 8" . Of
  18. Go find your local re-enactment group and buy there wall tent or replace there aged / seasoned one for them . It will give you some nice duck natural material . Also look at there old gum blankets and painted straps .
  19. The long rod tie across behind tires ,has the tie rod ends . They screw in and out to adjust . Measure up from flat level surface about mid tire height in front and back . Should be between 1/16" - 1/8" toed in , front . You may find you only need to loosen both rod , jam nuts . As most had one right and one left hand threaded . So just turning rod like a turnbuckle . will move it . Spec will be in your manual . My '31 is spec i gave you and pretty much general rule .
  20. Yes, Do a search for Clum Switch wiring . Depends on your switch number . Do in DB section first . Most near same . First test wire most are bad that's why there disconnected . They get twisted to and fo in column and wear thur . It should ground only when button pushed . So ground while turning wheel . It is replaceable . It will hook to terminal that is not number 1 (main power ) but returns from horn . Good luck .
  21. Thanks Don and Dave . At moment I am not having to do any thing . Per write up in Tech forum . was able to reduce slack back to it's manageable 3/4" from 4-1/2 " . The problem was feeling the adjustment . By disconnecting the drag link from pitman , was able to feel each adjustment in pitman movement . and wheel . So work it out . I will in future be chasing down one because it is worn equal in worm mesh . I also found a number on casting . Do not know if you have them on yours , curious .. C18358 or B ,not sure on end ,was using mirror .
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