Fleet Meadow

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Everything posted by Fleet Meadow

  1. Fleet Meadow

    Brake leak location

    I jacked up the front end and took the driver’s tire off and checked the clearance through the slot in the drum. The secondary shoe was too close to the drum for the feeler gauge to fit between. On the primary shoe, the top of the shoe was too close to the drum for the feeler gauge to fit in between but the bottom of the shoe was loose so it fit in with no problem. Unfortunately I couldn’t get the lock nut on the anchor pin to move so I couldn’t adjust it just yet.
  2. Fleet Meadow

    Brake leak location

    I'm trying to get brakes in my '52 Cadillac and having a leak somewhere. There is no physical leak but I need to pump the brakes for about 5-10 seconds to get brakes. Then if I release the pedal I have to do it all over again. The master cylinder and wheel cylinders have been rebuilt. This system has a hydro-vac brake booster. When bleeding the system I used a vacuum bleeder connected to the first-in-line bleeder screw and I bled it for about 5 minutes. I got a tiny bit of fluid at the very beginning of the vacuum tube but that was it. Then it was all air. However the master cylinder never dropped its fluid level. What am I looking at as a problem here? Do I need to rebuild the master cylinder again or is this a symptom of a booster failure? I have never had the system working yet to know the competence of the booster.
  3. Fleet Meadow

    Brake leak location

    I just read an interesting article on www.1949cadillac.com. It talks about major adjustment of the ‘49s. It has the same type of brake system. I didn’t know there was a slot in the drum to put the feeler gauge. So the next time I get the car out I will check that adjustment and see if it is out of adjustment and then continue on with the minor adjustment again.
  4. Fleet Meadow

    Brake leak location

    My bleeders have a threaded flat surface at the end of them where the nipple should be. I’ve never seen it on a cylinder before. I attempted to use some “normal” bleeders on the cylinders but they were too big for the holes.
  5. Fleet Meadow

    Brake leak location

    I’ll check the free play again and make sure that is right. Upon looking at the manual again I’m thinking the locking anchor needs to be adjusted. That would explain the double pump to get enough fluid to apply the shoes. Any tips on how to do this the most effectively? I know it’s all straight forward but sometimes they have fun car tricks that make it easier and faster.
  6. Fleet Meadow

    Brake leak location

    I adjusted the shoes according to the shop manual. It says to tighten the star wheel until the wheels can not be turned. Then back off star wheel fourteen (14) notches.
  7. Fleet Meadow

    Brake leak location

    How I did what? The bleeding? After I rebuilt the master cylinder I reconnected it. Instead of drawing the air from the line being open at the master cylinder through the entire system I vacuum bled the front left cylinder. Once fluid came out I went to the rear right, rear left, front right, and finally front left. If I get a firm pedal and back my foot off until just before the pedal is in resting position, wait for a couple seconds, then apply the brake I still have a firm pedal when I push it down. But if I fully remove my foot from the pedal I lose it and have to pump it twice again.
  8. Fleet Meadow

    Brake leak location

    When I push the pedal down the first time i feel slight resistance as if the brake shoes are being pushed out but not enough for the stroke of the pedal. I then release the pedal to the top of the stroke and push it down again. The pedal stops about 3/4 of the way down and is firm. If I release it and push it down again it holds firm at about 1/2 of the stroke. The pedal does not seem to slowly fall to the floor when holding in place.
  9. Fleet Meadow

    1952 Cadillac Series 75

    I decided the other week to take out the wife and a friend of mine on a nice rainy night to show them how cool the car is. We are driving all over and then I take off and the car stumbles and stalls. I stop and it starts back up. At the end of the road it does it again. The next road it stalls and won’t start again. So in the rain we pushed the car to a parking lot. I opened the hood and looked in the fuel bowl and it’s empty. So even though my gauge was reading full it was empty. I had been playing with the sending unit because it was reading a quarter of a tank when it was empty. After i got gas it started right up and I went home. Upon further investigation I discovered that the sending unit had lost ground. In the parking lot I put 5 gallons in the tank. I then drove the 4-5 miles home. When I applied ground it showed empty. I put another 5 gallons and it went up to just above the empty line. I have no idea where it will show when it is full but at least I will know I have at least 5 gallons of gas when the tank is at empty.
  10. This is my 1952 Cadillac Fleetwood Series 75. I traveled 575 miles to get it. It was taken off the road somewhere around 1975 due to an “excessive oil leak.” The engine was removed, the heads were rebuilt. That’s as far as the engine was rebuilt. It sat outside of the car uncovered. I found a couple rebuilt stickers in the car. The brakes were rebuilt, they still have the Made in USA stamping on the pads. The sticker is dated 1976. The regulator was rebuilt. As for that there was nothing else rebuilt from what I saw. The transmission and engine came outside of the car. I’m not sure it’s the same engine as the number starts 5360, which should indicate a 1953 Series 60 engine, but my 1952 parts car has the same beginning numbers. I have rebuilt the engine by myself looking at the shop manual and hoping for the best, and believe it or not it runs very well. I have put about 100 miles on the engine so far. Unfortunately the transmission won’t shift past 2nd so it is at the shop as we speak. I generally don’t like to let mechanics touch my classic cars but this is out of my league. The seats have a professional seatcover on top of them which is hiding perfect broadcloth seats. I am at the very beginning stages of working on the car so the brakes have to be pumped every time you get in it and the lights need to be replaced. The windows don’t work due to the broken hydraulic lines and the pump doesn’t work yet. When you move the switches you do hear clicks at the doors so that’s a plus. I’m hoping to get the car back in about a week so I can actually take it out on it’s first real test drive. I bought it in December 2016.
  11. Fleet Meadow

    Brake leak location

    I have now bled the brakes. The master cylinder was bled as a just in case situation. The shoes had already been adjusted prior to bleeding. I get pedal pressure but I have to pump it once first. So it goes to the floor and then the second pump I have pedal pressure. I feel pressure in the pedal when it goes down to the floor as if it is in fact moving the shoes but they are too far for 1 stroke to apply them. I see nothing dripping or leaking and the brakes hold after I pump them twice.
  12. Fleet Meadow

    Brake leak location

    I decided to remove the hydrovac brake booster out of the car and opened it. The air side of the diaphragm had what smelled and looked like brake fluid soaked saw dust. I’m assuming that that is where I was sucking in air. I took the master cylinder off. Yes it had been bench bled before but since it was out again I rebuilt it and bench bled it again. It seems to be working great. When I took it off and cleaned it I looked in the bore and it was perfectly smooth. When I get it back in I will then bleed the cylinders. But for that I have to wait for someone to help me. These cylinders have interesting bleeding nipples. They don’t have the nipple for you to attach a line. They have a threaded section for you to screw in a nipple it seems. I’ve never seen that before so I am going to have to do the pedal pressing method.
  13. Fleet Meadow

    Brake leak location

    According to the book you tighten the star wheel until the wheel can’t turn then back it of 14 notches. 14 seems like an awful high number but that’s how it is adjusted. The thought crossed my mind that maybe it was supposed to read as 4 notches but I did it how the book reads.
  14. Fleet Meadow

    1952 Cadillac Series 75

    Is that a normal thing or an adjustment thing?
  15. Fleet Meadow

    1952 Cadillac Series 75

    So after finally getting in touch with the exhaust guy he explained some of the pipes so I could put them together. The bends aren’t 100% but I got them all in. It’s amaxing how quiet the car is now. If I could put a video here I would. But I’m sure everyone knows what a quiet car sounds like. Next on the agenda will be to adjust the engine with the new exhaust in, as well as a new pipe for the vacuum advance. I heard this ticking that got worse as I drove faster and I got terrified that the engine had a tick and I just hadn’t heard it before because the engine was so loud. Then it finally dawned on me when I stopped at a stop sign and the ticking stopped, it’s the speedometer cable spinning. The speedometer stopped working the last time I drove it and the cable must have broken just enough to not spin the speedometer but still tap the back of it. There is an interesting noise in the engine but I can’t determine what it is. And I have no idea how to describe it at the moment. It’s not a ticking, it’s more of a hissing but it’s not coming from the radiator and nothing is pouring out. It sounds like it’s inside the block.
  16. Fleet Meadow

    Seafoam Hydra Trans Tune

    My ‘52 Cadillac doesn’t shift. It has the 4 speed dual range Hydra-Matic in it. The car hasn’t run since 1976 and I got it running for a couple miles and now it won’t shift out of first. I’ve heard many suggestions as to different technical things that it might be. I’ve checked the governor, I’ve checked the control body. It still doesn’t work. There is a place that I am going to send it soon but I just found that Seafoam makes a product (the name of this thread) that is supposed to clean varnished fluid in the passages and fix shifting problems. I figure it is my last ditch effort before I send it out for them to either fix it or rebuild it. Has anyone used this product?
  17. Fleet Meadow

    Seafoam Hydra Trans Tune

    The fluid stayed nice and red throughout the whole experiment. The mechanic said he didn’t change the fluid, he just replaced what he drained when he was working on the transmission. It still gets hung up on shifting to third when you first start it but once it shifts through all of the gears that first time it shifts normally for the rest of the drive.
  18. Fleet Meadow

    1952 Cadillac Series 75

    The next day, after I wrote that the motor might need to be rebuilt I remembered that I had alcohol in the line instead of brake fluid, per shop manual instructions to flush the lines. I drained it and put brake fluid in the reservior. Now the windows went up and down repeatedly with no problems. I hadn’t thought about how the alcohol was going to have no lubricity and was going to cause so much friction in the motor. So in my pleasure of having windows I all of a sudden heard this hissing when the motor was working. I looked around and found brake fluid all over passengers side floor. Apparently one of the lines split and sprayed fluid everywhere when the pump is running. Unfortunately for me it’s the line running from the back to the front and is hiding in the wood area on the side of the seat and i can’t see the pipe where it is leaking. On a good note, I installed 30’ of heater hose from the firewall to the front underseat heat to the rear underseat heater, to the other rear underseat heater to the firewall again and now have heat. The bad side is one of the rear underseat heaters is frozen and smoking. While on a roll I decided to finally open the 6 month old box of exhaust I had custom made from a company that advertises on eBay. I specified what car it was going on and they said they could do it. I got the big mufflers and the resonators like I wanted. I put the first pipe from the header on and went to install the muffler except the pipe doesn’t reach where the muffler has to sit. It’s about 8” short. So I went to the store and got a pipe and clamps since the box came without clamps and instructions. I put it on and tried to get the muffler on. It won’t go on because the first pipe is bent too much and angled out towards the frame. So I uncoupled everything and decided to try to dry fit things. Not one pipe is angled right. And nowhere is there a place for the resonators. The last pipe makes a sharp turn at the end towards the fender. Unfortunately it’s supposed to lead out the rear bumper. So now I have pipes that do nothing and no mufflers on the car. I don’t have any tube benders so I called a couple garages and they “don’t want to make an exhaust from scratch.” So that was $550 well spent.. At least I now have the mufflers and resonators, I just need to get someone to connect them to the car. One thing that puzzles me is, shouldn’t there be some sort of flexible pipe connecting the slightly moving engine to the rigid tail pipes connected to the non-moving body?
  19. Fleet Meadow

    1952 Cadillac Series 75

    The windows all go up and down now. I believe the motor needs to be rebuilt though because once one window goes up I have to wait about 3-5 minutes before putting another one up. If I don’t the motor cuts out. I found my short that was plaguing me. When the rear doors would open the power to the rear controls would stop working. All of the wires seemed to be intact. I couldn’t turn on the dome light by the switches at the B pillar and at the rear seats. After some testing I found that the current was backfeeding into the dashboard. I replaced all of the wires leading under the carpet from the rear to the dashboard. One of the wires was snapped inside the harness. Once I replaced those the rear had power whether the door was opened or closed. The passenger side door light turned on when the door was opened. The driver’s side door doesn’t turn on but I am thinking that it is a bulb that needs to be replaced. And I can turn the dome light on by the B pillar switch. I broke the rear seat switch so I can’t test that. I started working on the underseat heaters. The front heater works great, the rear blower turns on. The rear underseat heaters are frozen so I need to take them out and clean them. I killed the battery so I had to call it a day. The car looks like a mess right now with the wires and tools everywhere and the seats out. ?
  20. Fleet Meadow

    1952 Cadillac Body Wiring

    Any idea where I can find the wiring diagram for the body of a 1952 Cadillac Series 75? In the shop manual it has the diagram for the wiring that all of the ‘52s have in common and the underseat heaters the Series 75 I am trying to find the wiring that hooks the hydro-lecture system into the car. I see the diagram for how the pump, switches and cylinders are hooked together but it doesn’t show the hookup of power into the switches. I also have to trace the wires for the dome light and door lights. The switch only gets power when the rear doors are closed. When the doors are open the power to the rear window switches and door lights do not have power going to them. Same goes for the seat switch. Unfortunately for me, Cadillac ran most of these wires through metal channels and under the headliner and since that is in very good shape I’m not ripping it apart to see what wires are hiding up there. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. 
  21. Fleet Meadow

    1952 Cadillac Series 75

    Well I wanted to include some videos but it won’t let me do it. I got the wipers working today. I used an old trick of putting brake fluid into the wiper motor and moving it back and forth to lubricate and soften the rubber inside. They say ATF is better but I didn’t have any. I got the rear defroster motor and underwear heater working but not the two motors under the rear seat. I also added some fluid to the window motor which GM creatively named MOTOVATOR and bench tested it. The fluid shot out of the open line I had attached. It appears to be ready to go back in, except one of the rubber mounts is broken. I’m going to try to get one from the parts car I have. My intention was to get some lights working but I have no power going to the rear half of the cabin. The book wiring diagram says it shows for all Cadillacs but must only show stuff that all of the cars share so I will have to either try to trace wires or find a diagram that shows the schematics.
  22. Fleet Meadow

    1952 Cadillac Series 75

    We do but they are very limited around me. The radio is pretty far down on my things to fix. When I’m comfortable enough with the car I’ll take it 30 minutes to a radio station I know of. Last night I took out the window pump and freed it. It spins with power connected to it but the lines are all gone because of the brake fluid they used in them so I will have to replace them. It’s getting cold and my garage doesn’t have heat so working time is limited.
  23. Fleet Meadow

    1952 Cadillac Series 75

    I got the radio to turn on. It buzzes from the vibrator then about 5 seconds later I hear static through the front and rear speaker. It gets louder as you turn up the volume so I’m taking that as a good sign. Now I just need to find a station for it to lock onto. I’m not certain the antenna is attached. I haven’t gone under the dashboard to look that much but I know that there are 2 vacuum tubes coming off of the radio that are not attached.