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Fleetwood Meadow

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Everything posted by Fleetwood Meadow

  1. Doing my own research it seems the 15 stands for Plymouth and the 20 means it was the 20th carburetor the manufacturer made and the A was an engineering revision. Was this revision a rebuild by the engineers to fix this particular carburetor or what could the A be for?
  2. So i took the pictures and put them up for comments and nobody has said anything. The top of the carburetor where the dashpot would be if it was the right carburetor says 15-20A. The cast iron part says BXV-3.
  3. I do have a manual but haven’t gotten too in depth with it. I’m suspecting that something was in the control valve body that pushed into the governor when I started it for the first time since before I changed it it shifted through all of the gears. I took the NOS valve body apart yesterday and checked everything and found everything clean and operational with exception to the piston behind the T.V. piston. After freeing that the T.V. rod moved the full length it is supposed to again. I thought that might work but it didn’t and it’s still in 1st gear today. Is there anything I can add to the f
  4. In my ‘52 Cadillac, Hydra-Matic, I have a problem getting it to shift. The fact is it won’t shift. I just replaced the valve body and I’m suspicious that it may have been dirty even though it appeared very clean. It reverses fine and takes off without slipping. I took it apart and found that the T.V. couldn’t go in all the way because the piston inside was stuck. The bands were also just adjusted. But I can’t get it to shift into second. I get up to 15-20mph and the governor won’t let it go faster and it doesn’t shift. I’ve driven it with the T.V. rod connected and disconnected and still the s
  5. In my ‘52 Cadillac, Hydra-Matic, I have a problem getting it to shift. The fact is it won’t shift. I just replaced the valve body and I’m suspicious that it may have been dirty even though it appeared very clean. It reverses fine and takes off without slipping. I took it apart and found that the T.V. couldn’t go in all the way because the piston inside was stuck. The bands were also just adjusted. But I can’t get it to shift into second. I get up to 15-20mph and the governor won’t let it go faster and it doesn’t shift. I’ve driven it with the T.V. rod connected and disconnected and still the s
  6. The car ran the same as it does now except the stumble never went away.
  7. I have a 1952 Cadillac and the driver’s front door vent crank I had worn out teeth. I’m looking for just the crank. I’m not sure if other GM cars used the same crank such as the Buick.
  8. I am attempting to put the stainless trim around the windshield in my ‘51 Meadowbrook and I am struggling pretty badly. The book says to use cord stuffed into the slot in the weatherstripping and gently pull it back against the stainless. That works great until I get to the upper corner. The trim has such a curve that it pulls the lip in under itself. I can’t seem to get the weatherstripping to go up enough to reach the stainless because it is pulled in so far away from the weatherstripping. Not to mention that the trim is not a perfect 90 and when you pull the side of the stainless it pulls t
  9. I tried to wiggle it around and it is tight. Does the TDH ISO 32 get thinner or thicker when it warms up? The issues I’ve talked about seem to happen when the car has been running for less than an hour.
  10. I am starting to believe that it is not the fluid drive and more of a carburetor issue. That brings me back to the carburetor post I made earlier in this thread. Is the carburetor letting it get too low in the rpms because it doesn’t have the dashpot or is that just a gimmick? I have read many saying they don’t even use it. I had read that the area around the throttle shaft starts to create an air leak over time. Does that make sense?
  11. Before I leave the driveway the car is already up to temp according to the gauge and the choke has been released.
  12. It turns out I did have an intake leak. I fixed that however it didn’t change things. Prior to that I ran my Meadowbrook around for about an hour and a half the other day and it stumbled and did everything I mentioned before. Then about an hour into the ride it stopped dragging at the stops and didn’t stumbled when I took off. I assumed that the fluid finally worked through and everything was great. The next day I took it for a short 15 minute ride and it acted up like before the whole time. Today I took it out for about an hour and it did the same as the longer drive I mentioned, for the firs
  13. I don't remember saying that the radiator was cleaned. If i did, I misspoke. I intend to clean it as best as possible via the wood bleach cleaning process.
  14. It’s a Flathead 6 230. The thermostat is 160. The radiator hoses are hot on both sides so the thermostat opens. The fan does cool down the fluid a bit as I said in the original post however it doesn’t keep up enough. I’m fairly confident that the cooling system is clogged but I figured I’d ask a couple questions in this thread and open the discussion with people that have far more knowledge than I have. I have a similar issue with my 1952 Cadillac that has a 12-15lb pressured cooling system and it has knocked the cap so the drain seal and the big cap seal have separated from its seat. I intend
  15. I have corrected the accelerator pump issue that I did not know I was having. The throttle shaft was wiggling where the linkage connects. I secured it. The accelerator pump was not going up enough for it to get a long stream, it stopped about halfway through the throttle opening. I added a couple washers that are the size of the linkage so it won’t bind. Now when idling and the pedal is pressed it revs beautifully. I increased the idle to 700rpm and when I put it in gear and released the clutch it dropped down to 350rpm. I released the brake, pushed the accelerator, and.... it stalled. So I s
  16. This engine has never been rebuilt and it doesn’t leak, there is no smoke, and it, with the exception of overheating and a stumble at the initial acceleration that I mentioned in another post, runs and idles smoothly and comfortably. There are no bubbles in the coolant to indicate a head gasket issue. So I’d like to not rebuild it at this time if I can get away with it. I just did that this year with my Cadillac and would like a little break from that.
  17. The thermostat is 160 like the book says. I’ve tried to do everything the way the book says. The temps that I said in the original post are infared readings. The temp of the top of the block is generally the same from front to back. I do know I need to flush the system again and wanted to use the wood bleach crystals but nowhere have I seen an amount to be put in that is recommended. Everyone says put crystals in and run it then flush it. As for the dashboard gauge there are no numbers. The book says that of the 4 lines on the gauge the first from the left is cold, th
  18. I cannot remember exactly what I used but it was a degreasing agent that I let the parts soak in then I scrubbed them with a rotating brush that looks like an electric toothbrush.
  19. Could a leak in the intake manifold cause the hesitation at initial acceleration? Could it run itself too lean initially and then straighten out?
  20. I'm not overly familiar with the inner workings of the carburetor. What is the step up piston and where would I find it?
  21. Here's a dumb but not dumb topic. Within the cooling system there are intricate details that are made in order to get uniform heat dispersal. With my Meadowbrook I battle overheating whenever the car is travelling at speeds of 50mph or higher for any length of time over 10 minutes. Periodically when driving around town, I say town but I live in the middle of nowhere so it is not stop and go, the temp gauge will rise above the summer temp. From the research I have seen, not including rust in the block, they all seem to point towards the water distribution tube. They say that it should be replac
  22. I rebuilt the carburetor two months ago, including the accelerator pump. I am not very knowledge on carburetors but the book says I should have a Stromberg BXVD-3 or a BXVES-3 on it but it came with a Stromberg BXV which does not have a dashpot to retard the rapid deceleration. But the car stumbles to rev in neutral as much. That is another topic I plan to tackle. If someone can tell me the difference between the carburetors I would love to know if it is worth replacing to the factory stock carburetor. As for the fluid drive, I was told that when it gear without the clutch the rpm
  23. I posted this on the p15-d24 forum and everyone said that the car sounds like its running perfectly, which it obviously isn't or I wouldn't be complaining about it. They all told me to raise the rpm to 600rpm. The book says it should be 450-500rpm.
  24. I have a 1951 Dodge Meadowbrook with the standard 3 speed transmission fluid drive. When it is idling in neutral it runs around 450-500rpm. When I put it in gear and take out the clutch the engine bogs down to around 200-250rpm. I have changed the fluid with the TDH ISO32 like many of the forums here have said to do and it still does it. When I try to take off with the clutch out it either stalls or stumbles for about a second then takes off. When I am rolling down the road it runs and shifts fine with no hesitation. When you have it in gear with the clutch out, lets say in second gear, and yo
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