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Fleetwood Meadow

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Everything posted by Fleetwood Meadow

  1. And this was in the #1 cylinder however the spark plug wasn’t covered in wet oil. It was dry.
  2. I have original window cylinders in my ‘52 Cadillac. That means I need to use brake fluid in them. They say that if I use ATF in them the original rubber in he cylinders will get destroyed. But the advantage to ATF is they claim it doesn’t need to be changed yearly. However, they say that the dot 3 brake fluid that is used needs to be changed yearly due to the absorption of moisture into the fluid. The new cylinders can use ATF but are expensive. With new fluids, such as dot 5, a silicone based fluid which they claim does not absorb moisture, can that be left in the system without the yearly fluid change?
  3. I took a picture inside the cylinder that had the broken valve and this is stuck to the side of the wall. I don’t know what it is. The cylinders that I checked look great though, with the exception of whatever that is.
  4. Sigh, to add to the lost battle today I went back into the garage tonight to get my ‘51 Dodge to go out for a spin and the overwhelming smell of gas was in the garage. I pushed the Cadillac out of the garage because I knew it came from me filling it up. And this is what I found. I thought I fixed the leak at the sending unit but the little rubber gaskets seem to be worthless. I’ll end up making a cork one once I can get the car running again and get it to the driveway. Until then I don’t know what I’m going to do with the leaking gas. All I do know is I couldnt leave it in the garage dripping on the floor.
  5. Could the floats be too high and it’s causing the fuel to spray out of the jets when the car is off? I’m wondering if I am washing the cylinders by too much fuel being forced out of the carb. I can’t seem to get any change when I adjust the mixture screws
  6. So I took the car out and did the hill thing, and rougher driving as was suggested. The car ran great for about 20 minutes. Then i started hearing what sounded like a rod knock. So I headed home. Every time I stopped the car it stalled. When I parked the car and shut it off the carburetor kept dumping gas into the intake, which explains the hard start when I stopped to get gas along the ride. I took the covers off and assured that oil was getting up there. Then I saw it.. the broken valve spring. I wouldn’t have been so concerned about it because I didn’t replace them when I rebuilt the engine, except that is the second time that same spring has snapped. I also had noticed that the #2 spark plug wire hadn’t been reattached when I took them off the last time. That might explain the stalling, along with the frustrating carb that was dumping in fuel out of the forward ports. The broken spring was in the #3 cylinder, the same as the caked up spark plug. The #1 and 3 spark plugs looked great though. It’s kind of hard to see the gas but it is shooting straight out of the port, and the car is off.. so now what? What causes the spring to break? What causes the fuel to be coming out of the primary ports of the carburetor with the car off?
  7. So I took the car out and did the hill thing, and rougher driving as was suggested. The car ran great for about 20 minutes. Then i started hearing what sounded like a rod knock. So I headed home. Every time I stopped the car it stalled. When I parked the car and shut it off the carburetor kept dumping gas into the intake, which explains the hard start when I stopped to get gas along the ride. I took the covers off and assured that oil was getting up there. Then I saw it.. the broken valve spring. I wouldn’t have been so concerned about it because I didn’t replace them when I rebuilt the engine, except that is the second time that same spring has snapped. I also had noticed that the #2 spark plug wire hadn’t been reattached when I took them off the last time. That might explain the stalling, along with the frustrating carb that was dumping in fuel out of the forward ports. The broken spring was in the #3 cylinder, the same as the caked up spark plug. The #1 and 3 spark plugs looked great though. It’s kind of hard to see the gas but it is shooting straight out of the port on the primary side of the carburetor, and the car is off..
  8. Roughly how many miles should I put on it before I should start to try correcting “issues?” I know that break in periods vary and I’m trying to just wait it out but when should I start to assume that issues aren’t just a break in struggle?
  9. That’s what I’m going to do. The engine only has about 200 miles so the rings may not have seated yet.
  10. I’m not exactly sure on the heads. The seller never touched the disassembled engine. He said that the heads had been rebuilt by the time he had bought it. I replaced the seals and the clips that hold the spring onto the valves. It was the first time I had rebuilt an engine so I didn’t try to jiggle the valves around to see if they moved. The engine only has about 200 miles on it since it was first started.
  11. Also found this. Does this make sense? (Options 1&2)
  12. If you follow my thread in Our Cars you will know I rebuilt the engine last year. It was my first one and I didn’t do all of the things I should have done, such as measure cylinders before ordering rings. However the car runs great. I parked it in November and started it up and let it run for a couple minutes every month until I took it out for a spin today. It shifted 1-4 perfectly, which is unusual for the first mile in that car, but it ran rough at idle and still a little rough driving. When I stopped the car at the garage there was light smoke coming from the driver’s side exhaust. I parked it and took out the spark plugs. 2,4,6,8 were all a uniform light brown color. 5,7 were the same light brown color except 7 was a little darker towards the threads. 1 was covered in oil, and 3 was caked up. What do I do about that? Do I need to disassemble those two cylinders and get larger rings? Could it have been from starting it and letting it only run a couple minutes without it getting to operating temperature? I do lose some oil out of it but I haven’t driven it enough to see how much, plus it leaks from the side of the oil pan so it’s tough to tell how much is going where. Pictures are from top to bottom: 1, 3, all of the rest. 
  13. So I got the seat back into the car and tested the cylinder for it and it moved the seat back and forth beautifully so I took it to the driveway and fixed the speedometer cable and the driveshaft insulators that were broken. I put 5 gallons of gas in it and took it down the road. It shifted 1-4 perfectly, which is unusual for the first mile in that car, but it ran rough at idle and still a little rough driving. When I stopped the car at the garage there was light smoke coming from the driver’s side exhaust. I parked it and took out the spark plugs. 2,4,6,8 were all a uniform light brown color. 5,7 were the same light brown color except 7 was a little darker towards the threads. 1 was covered in oil, and 3 was caked up. What do I do about that? Do I need to disassemble those two cylinders and get larger rings? I do lose some oil out of it but I haven’t driven it enough to see how much, plus it leaks from the side of the oil pan so it’s tough to tell how much is going where. Pictures are from top to bottom: 1, 3, all of the rest. And the speedometer is brand new and installed.. but it still didn’t move the gauge so I will have to take it back out and check.
  14. After using the underseat cylinder a couple times the gasket inside must have swelled because it doesn’t leak anymore.
  15. I am in the process of getting the vacuum parts of my ‘52 Series 75 working and I’m struggling with the vacuum antenna. Any tips on how to get the bolt on the bottom out of the cast iron without snapping the iron or the bolt? On my parts car the bolt snapped then the cast iron snapped when I tried to remove the bolt from it. When I finally got the bottom off, which does not come off easily since the car was left outside for many years, I found the 2 disks inside attached to the moving shaft of the antenna but I don’t see any leather or rubber attached to it like I saw another site saying it’s supposed to have. I was told that a ‘44 Serviceman bulletin shows all the parts but I don’t have it. Any tips about how to repair this and what to use would be helpful. I have no intention of sending it out to get fixed.
  16. With that being said, what is the best way to park a longer car? I haven’t had the chance to take my Cadillac out but it’s just about 20’ long. Do I park to the line and stick out into the driving lane or do I park flush to the driving lane and push into the parking spot in front of me? I’m not sure of the eticate for that one. My Dodge is only 17’ so there is no problem there.
  17. That’s hard to really answer. The mechanic that did my transmission has a guy that does them. It took about 3 days. In-Gear Transmission in Douglas, MA is my mechanic. Does great work and has a lot of experience with Hydra-Matic transmissions.
  18. I just got my Mopar 813 radio for my ‘51 Meadowbrook. Although the radio needs some new capacitors it is a great piece to restore. It was packed very well. And I got it in 2 days!
  19. My heater core came in. It looks like he replaced the whole core and kept the housing and outlet tubes. He must have even found a hole in one of them! Not looking forward to putting it back in.
  20. When I bought my Cadillac it was 575 miles away. I sent $500 through PayPal and agreed that when I got there, if I was still satisfied with the car, I would give him the remaining balance. If he wouldn’t agree to that I was not going to do business with him.
  21. I’m not sure if this helps but it’s a checklist for Hydra-Matics.
  22. The radio works! Well sort of. I wish I could add video so it could be heard. The radio has a Selector bar so it scans for the signal. I can hear random voice and music sounds but it doesn’t stop of any of the stations. The car is in the garage so that might be why but I’m excited; it’s the first time I’ve heard sound come out of it. I’ve had it one several times before but never with any sound.
  23. That’s sort of what I thought had happened. Does ATF do the same thing? I have to replace a window cylinder or two and I was debating just replacing them all. They say that with the new cylinders the rubber seals are more resistant and to use ATF instead of the brake fluid because it won’t have to be flushed and changed.
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