envoy_to_the_stars
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Posts posted by envoy_to_the_stars
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This is a 14", 6V electric fan, usable on our old 6V vehicles to give a little supplemental cooling on hot days, or when you're idling down a parade route!
It's new in the box. I bought it as a supplemental cooling fan for my Buick, but ended up solving the cooling issue and didn't need it. Take the stress off your cooling system and let this fan help keep your temps down. $60 Shipped!
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On 3/25/2017 at 7:26 PM, roadmaster29 said:
I can't talk to my bank until Monday. If they agree to the purchase I will buy it
Keep me updated - send me a PM if you're interested in discussing this further!
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On 3/25/2017 at 5:44 PM, roadmaster29 said:
I don't see a price here or on the bringatrailer site other than a $6000 bid. I would like to know what you are hoping to get. Beautiful car by the way
Historically, BAT auctions don't really spike up until the last 12 hours or so...which is understandable, why pump up the price when there's still days left on the auction?
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Thank you, Mark and Ben!
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27 minutes ago, Rogerrabbit said:
Do you have a price???
Indeed I do. Of course you can bid on the auction at any time, but at this time I'd be willing to pull the auction and sell the car outright with all spare parts and tools for $16.5k.
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Hello Everyone,
It is with great sadness that I announce I must sell my 1931 Model 57. I am moving overseas for work, and can't take her with me.
I bought this car from Mark Shaw in Oregon about 2 years ago, and it has been an absolute blast to drive and own. Mark is a Buick fanatic, and his deep knowledge of all things Buick show in his restoration of this car. It runs perfectly and strongly - starts up on the first try every time, has good compression on every cylinder, and holds 20+ lbs of oil pressure. She's a strong old girl! She has been used in parades and shows with Fire Department that I work for, and was featured in the 2016 Houston Auto Show.
Mark did a great job restoring this car in the 90's with his father, and rebuilt the engine at the same time. The 3-speed synchromesh manual gearbox shifts smoothly and effortlessly, just like a modern car. I have a stack of records and handwritten letters documenting the refurbishment. The car now has a clean Texas title.
The red and black paint shines beautifully. There is NO RUST at all, and only a few minor chips on the front fenders, around the door jams, and on the hood latches. I had the car professionally polished a few months ago...you'd think it was just painted yesterday.
Mechanically, this car is very sound. The brakes were professionally adjusted last year, along with a carburetor service, rebuilt water pump, steam cleaned radiator, new Optima 6V battery, and valve adjustment. The louvers on the front work well and the engine doesn’t overheat even during Texas summers. It does have a puff of smoke upon startup due to a minor exhaust valve leak, but new exhaust valve seals come with the car. Very minor seepage from the oil pan gasket and a minor leak from the rear differential is also present (about a drop per month), but a new oil pan gasket is included as well.
The big feature here is that the car is 100% complete. All of those impossible to find pieces are present, and Mark passed along a ton of spare parts as well, including the jack, an original “Specifications and Adjustments” book, Fischer body manual, and slides of the service manual. Additional spare parts that accompany the vehicle are as follows:
- Two rims/tires
- Front brake rod/cable
- Four backing plates with brakes
- One steering connecting rod
- Bottom radiator hose tube with drain valve
- Rocker arm assembly
- Valve cover
- Throw-out bearing oil tube/cover
- Spark plug side cover
- New oil pan gasket
- Distributor cap
- Ignition points and rotor
This is a really beautiful car, a fantastic driver, and something I planned on keeping forever - but life got in the way. It's currently featured on the Bring-a-Trailer auctions - if you're interested in owning her, please feel free to contact me here or on Bring a Trailer. I would be happy to provide additional pictures and/or video of anything you'd like to see.
http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1931-buick-model-8-57/
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Hello Everyone,
It is with great sadness that I announce I must sell my 1931 Model 57. I am moving overseas for work, and can't take her with me.
I bought this car from Mark Shaw about 2 years ago, and it has been an absolute blast to drive and own. It runs perfectly and strongly - starts up on the first try every time, has good compression on every cylinder, and holds 20+ lbs of oil pressure. She's a strong old girl! She has been used in parades and shows with Fire Department that I work for, and was featured in the 2016 Houston Auto Show.
Mark did a great job restoring this car in the 90's with his father, and rebuilt the engine at the same time. The 3-speed synchromesh manual gearbox shifts smoothly and effortlessly, just like a modern car. I have a stack of records and handwritten letters documenting the refurbishment. The car now has a clean Texas title.
The red and black paint shines beautifully. There is NO RUST at all, and only a few minor chips on the front fenders, around the door jams, and on the hood latches. I had the car professionally polished a few months ago...you'd think it was just painted yesterday.
Mechanically, this car is very sound. The brakes were professionally adjusted last year, along with a carburetor service, rebuilt water pump, steam cleaned radiator, new Optima 6V battery, and valve adjustment. The louvers on the front work well and the engine doesn’t overheat even during Texas summers. It does have a puff of smoke upon startup due to a minor exhaust valve leak, but new exhaust valve seals come with the car. Very minor seepage from the oil pan gasket and a minor leak from the rear differential is also present (about a drop per month), but a new oil pan gasket is included as well.
The big feature here is that the car is 100% complete. All of those impossible to find pieces are present, and Mark passed along a ton of spare parts as well, including the jack, an original “Specifications and Adjustments” book, Fischer body manual, and slides of the service manual. Additional spare parts that accompany the vehicle are as follows:
- Two rims/tires
- Front brake rod/cable
- Four backing plates with brakes
- One steering connecting rod
- Bottom radiator hose tube with drain valve
- Rocker arm assembly
- Valve cover
- Throw-out bearing oil tube/cover
- Spark plug side cover
- New oil pan gasket
- Distributor cap
- Ignition points and rotor
This is a really beautiful car, a fantastic driver, and something I planned on keeping forever - but life got in the way. It's currently featured on the Bring-a-Trailer auctions - if you're interested in owning her, please feel free to contact me here or on Bring a Trailer. I would be happy to provide additional pictures and/or video of anything you'd like to see.
http://bringatrailer.com/listing/1931-buick-model-8-57/
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Quick update, everyone.
I adjusted the valve clearances on the Buick a few weeks ago, and she's running a lot smoother now! Several clearances were too loose, and several were too tight. That took care of some noise by itself.
With regard to the other noise - I had the bottom end of the engine dismantled, inspected, and re-assembled by a specialty shop here in Houston (the owner has a Model 90 of his own), and he didn't identify any causes of the noise or any causes for concern. There's no loss of power, no hesitation, no rod knock, etc. I'll keep investigating as I find time, but I'm confident there's nothing to worry about.
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Mike,
Not sure how much this helps, but I have a '31 Model 57 in Houston, and would be happy to make it available for any measurements or mechanical references you need.
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Sean Ornduff in Tomball knows his stuff - not sure what your budget is, but if you need a guy who has the technical skill to fix your ride, he'll get it done quick and easy.
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Do you have any pictures of it in the daylight? Profile / Rear shots? Engine bay?
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Hello All,
My '31 Buick has wooden wheels. I'm trying to learn more about what I can do to keep them in good shape. I've seen plenty of pages on restoring wood wheels, but nothing on general continuous upkeep. I live in a very hot, humid area, so I probably have less to worry about than most, but I want to keep those wheels strong! Any advice yall can offer? Just slap a coat of linseed oil on them every so often?
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On 4/3/2016 at 10:32 AM, Mark Shaw said:
I agree with Bob. This engine was rebuilt about 20 years ago with new roller lifters..
Regarding a broken spring at the lower end of the push rod?
I've got some time this weekend to dog in and figure it out. I'll report back what I find!
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I've ridden in that Caballero, it's a slick ride!
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On 4/9/2016 at 9:07 PM, my31buick said:
I added the rope/packing seal to my 30-50.. if you look in the pics above you see the third pic down it has a beveled edge to the inside? that's where I put the packing seal. cut at 45 angles where it the seal ends come together. It did the trick. My car did not have the leather when I got it. you can look at the pics of the cars where bob asked folks to post pics. and you will see my 31-57..
What size packing did you use? I have a good amount of 1/4" UTEX packing left over from rebuilding the water pump, but it looks like that may be a bit big for this application.
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Bob,
thanks for the extra info. My car has the synchromesh transmission like the 32's, so maybe I should be looking to make a new boot and add some shims (though i think i remember bob's automobilia only has '34+).
I don't want to add something that wasn't there originally, so I'll abandon the seal idea. I'm fine with a few drops every now and again, but right now I'm getting about a 10" puddle after every 10 mile drive which seems excessive. Shims should help cut that back, along with the leather boot you mentioned.
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1 hour ago, Bob Engle said:
The early 50 series do not have a seal. I don't know what year they added a seal, but 1932 did not have a seal, just the leather cover to catch the drips.
Bob Engle
That's really interesting to hear. the amount of fluid dripping out of my torque ball (especially after driving a few miles) would probably fill up a leather cover very quickly. It leaves a pretty sizable puddle on the ground. Is it possible to add a seal, perhaps some modern kevlar rope packing? Or is it one of those "buy/make a boot and deal with it" kind of things?
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I'm going to dig up this thread to hopefully get some help resolving a leak in my '31 Model 57. In the Specs and Adjustments guide, it doesn't really talk about a torque ball in the Model 50s, just the 60/80/90. But if you look at the attached diagram, it appears to have one...please correct me if I'm wrong.
At any rate, I'm getting a decent drip from the seal around the ball. If you look closely, you can actually see some of the seal is torn and sticking out. When I bought the car, the leak was pretty minimal, but I've put quite a few miles on it since rebuilding the water pump and it's gotten worse - especially after long drives. After a long drive, I'll have about 1/8 cup of extremely thick lubricant on the floor. It's so thick, that when it cools it has the consistency of tar. Naturally, I'd like to keep that stuff off my garage floor!
I'd like to have a go at replacing the seals - but I can't seem to find anything for the early 30's cars, especially the 50 series. Bob's has kits for 1934+, 60/80/90 series. Am I looking for the wrong thing? If anyone can help get me moving in the right direction, I'd appreciate it!
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Thanks SO MUCH for everyone's input and advice - this is great! I have a lot of work to do testing all of your suggestions - I'll get to it, and report back shortly.
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13 minutes ago, 27donb said:
If you watch a rocker arm, the sound seems to be in perfect time with it. Would that mean it's a lifter issue?
I don't know about 8 cylinders, the sixes seem to have more oil splashing around up there.
I had a small block chevy engine that had 1/2 of a valve spring keeper get loose off the valve stem. The spring was still retained to the valve with 1/2 keeper that was left wedged in the valve stem. It made a similar sound, but not as loud.
I wonder if this is somehow valve geometry related...
A local antique shop said that they think it may be a dead lifter as well. Not sure how to further diagnose that though.
Im concerned about oil flow up there as well...it's not dry, but there's not
much up there. What could cause low flow to the top end even with 30 pounds of oil pressure?
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37 minutes ago, DonMicheletti said:
One way to check if it is valves is to slip a feeler gage under each rocker and see if the sound changes. If so do a valve adjustment.
I dont think the noise is "hollow" enough to ne a rod or main
I think Mark Shaw adjusted them shortly before I bought it, but I'll double check. I'm sure it says it in the adjustments manual, but do you recall what the gap should be? I'll warm it up tonight and give it a check.
I'd expect if it was rod knock, it would get louder if I revved the engine or put a little load on it.....but it doesn't really change noticeably. The noise is very consistent in volume and occurrence. I'll try pulling the spark plug wires and see if that cuts it out...I assume it's rod bearing related if that's the case.
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There are periodic drips, but to your point, not exactly what I'd expect. It's full of half Lucas Oil Stabilizer (really thick stuff) and half 30 Weight Rotella right now - maybe it's too thick??
Yes, it is firing on all 8 cylinders...it has an occasional misfire when it's cold, but nothing major. Noise doesn't change in volume when the valve cover is off.
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I moved the car out so I could get over to the driver's side of the engine bay, and found this little surprise:
It didn't appear to be missing from any valves, so I just removed it..... I went ahead and took a video from the other side as well. There really doesn't seem to be much oil up there, is that level of flow normal? Again, the gauge registers 30 lbs of oil pressure.
The sound could be in time with the cam - watching the valves move up and down it seems like it's in sync.
Here's a video from the driver's side:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlrUV8w0NvE
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Hey Joel, thanks for the input - take a look at the video above for a look at the valve operation. They're all moving up and down, and all the valves are opening and closing as far as I can see, but I'll get in there with a flashlight and double check.
The water pump is newly rebuilt and operating perfectly - no noise from there. The noise doesn't appear to be coming from the generator when i put my ear up next to it.
I have only driven the car about 50 miles in the last 5 months, but it was making that noise 5 months ago as well. That's when I changed the oil to 30 weight. I can't recall if it changed in volume at that point.
FOR SALE: 1931 Buick Model 8-57
in Buick - Buy/Sell
Posted
Correct - the vehicle sold through Bring a Trailer. Thanks for the interest.