Riviera63

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There is a cut nut on the back of the center emblem that holds it to the lens. You will need to get the tail light assembly out and access the back of the lens. Bill

Not local but, James of Bestoffercounts sells on e-bay the crossover, thermostat housing and the manifold to the top of the timing cover "O" ring in a set. I bought this set just for the thermostat gasket. If you still need them I have the crossover gaskets as I did not use them. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234471334848 Bill

I have 8 years on my fuel pump from NAPA. No problems. Bill

Yes, great movie. Interesting fact about the "326" in 1963. It was actually a 337. Pontiac wanted a cast iron V8 for 1963 but did not have time to develop one from scratch. Pontiac made engines for GMC in the past. They used 389 block and other parts already developed. The result was a 337. At the time GM had an edict that no car under a full size could have an engine larger than the Corvette had, which at the time was the 327. They called it a 326 to get around this and they knew for 1964 they would have a true 326. They eventually were found out but, it was too late in production to do anything about it. My Tempest LeMans convertible pictured above had the V8 with a 4bbl. That in a light car like this gave you plenty of power. Bill

That is a 1961 or 1962 Tempest. Hard to tell which one without seeing the front end. Definitely, not a 1963. 1963 pictured below. The 1961-1963 Tempest's had 15" wheels with a different bolt pattern than the other Pontiac wheels. They were actually Ford Thunderbird wheels. I heard that it was not uncommon for the the different companies back then to share certain parts/designs. I can only guess as to why they wanted the bigger wheels. It may have had to do with the drivetrain. The 1961-1963 Tempests had a rear transaxle that did not have a conventional driveshaft. It had a woven steel shaft which sagged in the middle. No "U" joints. This is where they got the nickname "Ropeshaft" drive. Those cars also had independent rear suspension which was perfect for the radial tires that would come later. The only other American car of those years that had independent rear suspension was the Corvette. Even though I own a Riviera now, being a previous owner of several 1963 Tempests I take exception to the term "lowly". It was actually a very interesting and unique car. The 1961-193 Tempest was the brain child of John DeLorean when he was the head of Pontiac. The 1963 was the test bed for the GTO which would come out in 1964. Besides the things mentioned above there were some other interesting features. The base engine was the 194.5 cubic inch 4-cylinder which was literally a 389 cut in half. This was the first American 4-cylinder since the Crosley of the late 40's-early 50's. The optional V8 for 1961-1962 was the Buick 215 cubic inch aluminum V8. 1963 had a more conventional cast iron V8. With the transaxle they were attempting to get a 50/50 weight distribution front to back. You would check the transmission fluid through a removeable plate in the trunk. Bill

I have some Riviera emblems that were with some parts that I just purchased. I have no clue what they are used for or what Riviera they would go to. They measure just a little under 2 3/4" in diameter, 1/8" thick and have a double sided adhesive backing. Any help identifying these would be greatly appreciated. Bill

I did not read your question as closely as I should have. Tom is correct that is a tack strip. The windlace will be stapled to that. As he said you should be able to get it from a convertible top supplier as it is the same as the strip that is used to staple the back edge of a convertible top to. Bill

Windlace, they are also at the front edge of the door opening. Clark's Corvair sells them. They have a Riviera catalog. Bill

Those are tough to find. Try the vendors listed in the Riview. I found a set for a friend from So Cal Riviera Farm. He is the guy that bought up Larry Daisey's Riviera parts collection. 909-786-5323. Bill

I bought mine before shipping got so idiotic. Bill

Yes, there were 4 pieces. The 2 wheel wells, the piece for the shelf and the main floor piece. The piece for the main floor had a stiff fiberboard backing. The wheel well pieces has a slit cut toward the top which is not visible as it is covered by cardboard covering the trunk hinges. Bill

I purchased my trunk liner from CARS, Inc. Old Buick Parts. I don't recall having any troubles getting the pieces on the wheel to fit well and fit flat. I'm sure it was not because of my brilliance as an installer. I can only think that it was because the pieces were formed correctly for a nice fit. Bill

Hi Kevin, Yes, it is a check valve. It was on the car when I bought it. I am sure it is not correct. It has not caused any issues, so I have just left it alone. Bill

Jan, Here are some shots of mine when tidied them up before installing a new rear bumper. They cleaned up with no problem I know they don't show but, I painted them and the skirt that goes around the filler neck. They took the paint very well. Bill

Jan, When I had my rear bumper off those pieces were black. I had no indication to think they weren't in original condition. No reason to paint them body color as they should not be visible. At least they are not visible on my car. Bill

If I remember correctly it was Gene G. of AB&G. Bill P.S. It looks like Gene may have shifted inventory to Bob.

Thanks for the kind words. How far from central WI to Winnipeg? Bill

You are using a different part to do the job of the old part. The old part is no longer made and so you have to improvise in order to get the same result. Yes the new part has 2 ports but, works differently than the old part. The new part needs vacuum at both ports to work. If you look at my pictures I have the same diaphragm with the 2 ports. The other line that plugged into the old part is plugged off. You can see in the second picture that I have a single line that is split into 2 lines and plugs into the new style diaphragm. Bill

You will need to hook things up with the new diaphragm a little differently. The old one was a 2 cannister with a vacuum line going to each cannister. The new one is a single canister. You will need to plug one of the old lines and then put a "tee" in the other to split the line into 2. These 2 lines will plug into the 2 ports of the new cannister. Choosing one line will give you the door 1/2 open and choosing the other line will give you the door full open. Either way will work. Just a choice you will have to make. Bill

There is no coolant involved. It is the same on AC and non-AC cars. You remove the blower motor and its casing from the heater box. The heater box removes from the firewall. The diaphragm is attached to the bottom of the heater box. The heater box is just a cavity for the blower to force air through and direct it to the interior of the car. Bill

Or remove the barn spike that was holding the door open as it was in my case. Bill

I was not worried about that. I just wanted an original look with minimal expense. Fake is fake either way. Bill

I have done this on my car. I removed the blower motor and the heater box. The old diaphragm is bolted to the inside of the heater box. To reinstall the new diaphragm would take 2 people if you left the heater box in place. Much easier to work on it with it on the bench. Chances are it will need cleaning and the spring that assists the flapper door will need replacing. Bill

My battery is a group 27. They can be used on any flat top battery as they are not a topper. They are individual stick on caps and decals. Bill