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Posts posted by Riviera63
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2 hours ago, Dundee said:
If anyone has an option to take a close up photo or two of those upper rear seat retainers would be appreciated, seems we will be making them.
Plan B does anyone have a good pair to post to Aus????Ron,
I sent you a PM as well. Those were included in the batch of parts I sent you.
Bill
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1 hour ago, telriv said:
Hoping to be there Also.
Would be GREAT to meet you after all these years.
Tom T.
Hi Tom,
I have been in contact with the head of sales for Turbinator Industries and he has assured me that you will be accompanying him to the show in the role of relief driver and general laborer.
I mentioned the possibility of no rooms being left to him. He said he had that covered as he has reserved a site at a nearby RV campground. He also mentioned something about pup tents and trying to keep costs down.
It will be great to meet you as well. Seeing you and Bob for the first time and Gene again for the first time since 2015 may be more than I can handle though.
Bill
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I just wanted to give a heads up to anyone that is planning on going to Lexington this summer. I made my reservations yesterday and according to the website I got the last double room available in the block reserved for the ROA. How true this is I do not know. Computer inventory and actual inventory don't always match. If you are still planning on going and have not made reservations, I would not chance it. Get on the phone and do it right away. Looking forward to seeing everybody there.
Bill
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13 hours ago, Donzi Dan said:
I'm looking for the correct name and better a source for the small plastic (maybe old hard rubber) parts that are in the windshield and rear window chrome. I suspect these isolate / protect the glass from chaffing with the chrome.
There are also two white hard plastic pieces in the windshield bottom chrome in addition to a number of those in the picture.
PM sent
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Thank you Steve.
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I have a friend that has a question about the weatherstrip channel that goes from the bottom of the A-pillar up along the top of the window openings and down the backside of the rear quarter window. I know that there is a channel that screws in along the A-pillar to hold the weatherstrip in place at the A-pillar. The question is about the channel that goes from the top of the A-pillar and down to the backside of the rear quarter window. Is the channel that holds the weatherstrip in this area part of the drip rail or are the drip rail and the weatherstrip channel 2 separate pieces? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Bill
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I figured out it was from a batch of pictures taken for an article on my car that was published in the February 11, 2016 issue of Old Cars Weekly.
The editor promised he would let me know when it was going to be published and that he would get me some copies. That promise was never fulfilled. The same thing happened to a friend of mine whose car was also featured in an issue of that publication. I never knew it was even printed until Ray Knott took me to task (kiddingly) for not letting him know that my car had been featured in print. He had been sent the article by an ROA member. He sent me photos of the article. If anyone has a copy of that issue that they would part with I would appreciate it.
Bill
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On its way to New Zealand! Enjoy Matt.
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Many of you have watched the YouTube video on the 10 best interiors where the 1963-1965 Riviera was ranked number 1. I also ran across another YouTube video done by the same person that produced that one which talks about some of the interesting facts of the 1963-1965 Riviera entitled: 1963-65 Buick Riviera: Strange Facts, Features, Quirks & Idiosyncrasies of Buick's 4-Place Coupe! I am sure that many of the things discussed are old news for those of us that are Riviera owners. Even so, it is nice to see our cars getting some recognition and discussion.
This became especially interesting for me as at the 14:17 mark of the video I had a surprise. For the next 45seconds or so while the narrator discussed the Dynaflow transmission the picture that was on the screen was of the engine compartment of my car! It would be interesting to find out where he got that picture.
Bill
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EmTee is right. I have salvaged several pieces of Riviera stainless steels trim from the scrap heap. I have used sandpaper with grit as low as 150 and then as EmTee said worked my way up with ever finer grits and then polished on the buffing wheel. In one instance I even used a file to smooth an area before sanding. The stainless steel used is very forgiving. It will take time but, can be done.
Bill
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I just picked up my front seats from the upholstery shop. He did mention that even though the seat covers are presewn/complete they are challenge to install and get to fit correctly because of the stiffness of the vinyl.
Bill
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I recently had the front seats of my 1963 reupholstered with pieces from Clark's Corvair. I had the upholstery shop save the old seat upholstery and had hopes that someone could use it and not have to send it to the landfill. The upholstery is structurally sound with no rips or tears. Any holes you see in the upholstery are there for a reason such as seat bumpers, power seat switch, etc. You will need to buy new buttons as they forgot to save those. Clark's has them. The reason I had it replaced is there were some stains and spots where the white coloration was wearing away. It could still be used as is or would be a great candidate for someone to dye them a different color as any discoloration or wear would be covered up. The vinyl dyes they produce now are top notch. New owner to just pay the shipping costs. PM me if interested. I would ask that you respond if you have an actual need for them and will use them as opposed to just getting them because they are free. Thanks.
Bill
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UPDATED
I have purchased two 1963 Rivieras and an assortment of miscellaneous parts. I will list some things here but, if there is something specific you are looking for PM me and I will see if I have what you are looking for. Thanks.
1.) 10 very nice right hand thread lug nuts
59.) 1965 lower front bumper support bar
68.) Console heater air hose spring clamps
95.) 1965 front bumper filler panel/lower tie panel
112.) 1965 Headlight Switch
119.) Upper cowl panel
134.) Blower motor to firewall ground wire
138.) 1965 speedometer cable with housing and connectors
141.) Master cylinder with screw on cap
146.) 1965 Brake booster
148.) Throttle operating lever with throttle return spring
155.) Passenger's door long stainless beltline trim molding
156.) Heater box with gasket
161.) Power Steering gear box
167.) 1963 left side dash access panel
174.) 1963-1965 deluxe interior door armrest pads-have 2-will fit either side
178.) Horn bracket with attaching hardware-for horn(s) behind grill
183.) 1963 fuse box bracket
186.) Steering column support brackets
188.) 1965 trunk wiring harness
212.) 1963 heater/AC switch dash cover plate
216.)SOLD-Driver's side lower dash trim
218.) Front seat inner side chrome trim pieces
223.) Passenger side upper dash trim
224.) Passenger side lower dash trim
228.) Trunk lid hinge bolts
230.) Dash clock mounting bracket
231.) Firewall vacuum diaphragm mounting bracket and attaching hardware
234.) Deluxe interior passenger's side armrest end caps with attaching screws
236.) Driver's side upper dash trim
256.) Passenger outside A-pillar stainless trim molding
257.) SOLD-Driver's outside A-pillar stainless trim molding
284.) Delco Remy alternator 1100668 date code 4 A 16
285.) Delco Remy alternator 1100700 date code 8 M 18
286.) 1964 tail light lens center emblem-have 2
290.) Door power window wiring conduit
291.) Pair 1963 sun visor boards
293.) SOLD-Left outside lower back window trim molding
294.) SOLD-Right outside lower back window trim molding
295.) Left outside back window side & top trim molding
297.) SOLD-Parking brake assembly with switch
303.) Passenger side front wheel opening molding
312.) 1963 Neutral safety switch
314.) Driver's side spark plug wire loom bracket
325.) 63-64 taillight housings passenger and driver's side
329.) SOLD-1963 fuel gauge
330.) 1963-1964 tan brake pedal pad
331.) 1963 right vent control cable non-AC
332.) 1963 left vent control cable non-AC
333.) 1963 rear heat control cable
334.) 1963 defroster control cable
340.) 4-blade fan with spacer and bolts
341.) Trunk lock catch assembly with attaching hardware
343.) SOLD-1963 Metal brake booster line with check valve
348.) Upper radiator hold down brackets non-AC car
349.) Deluxe interior armrest end caps-for cars with manual windows
353.) Driver's door vent window beltline molding
354.) Passenger door vent window beltline molding
355.) 1963 heater assembly lens non-AC car
357.) SOLD-Above glovebox courtesy light assembly
360.) Pair exterior door handles
363.) 1963 glovebox door script
365.) 1963-1964 gauge lens with bezel
367.) 1963-1964 air cleaner
369.) Front console ashtray
370.) Passenger side console kick panel extension
371.) Pair dashboard/dash pad end caps
372.) Passenger seat lanyard
375.) Front manual seat adjuster spring
378.) 1963-1964 speedometer lens and bezel
382.) SOLD-Lower front fender Riviera script emblem
383.) 1963 tail light center medallion
384.) 1963 tail light lens
385.) License plate light lens
388.) Rear quarter driver's LH power window motor regulator
390.) Hood latch
393.) 1963 temperature control cable
394.) 1963 AC cool control cable
395.) 1963 with AC heat control cable
397.) Manual seat track adjuster guard shield
399.) Wiper motor attaching screws and control arm attaching clip
400.) Rear speaker plug
401.) Trip odometer reset knob
403.) Dash pad mounting hardware
404.) 1963-1964 glovebox dash face aluminum non-AC
405.) Rear console heat vent attaching clips and screws
408.) Rear quarter window passenger's RH beltline molding
409.) Pair vent window cranks
410.) 1963-1964 manual window crank
411.) Vent window assembly frame leading edge chrome #5715083
412.) SOLD-Headlight stainless steel retainer rings
413.) Trunk light wiring harness
414.) 1963 console shifter assembly
415.) 1965 console shifter assembly
416.) Console shifter tunnel & boot
418.) AC condenser mounting brackets & hardware
421.) Lower door hinge spring
422.) Passenger side spark plug wire loom bracket
423.) 1963 neutral safety switch wiring harness with connectors
424.) Coat hook
425.) Door jamb switch bumpers
426.) Dash access panel clips
427.) 1963 trunk lid letter "C" with attaching clips
428.) 1963 remote mirror door toggle switch
429.) SOLD-Console shifter dust shield
430.) SOLD-1963-1964 tail light housing brackets, nuts & bolts
431.) Interior door opening mechanism, driver's rear (deluxe interior) or passenger front (deluxe & standard interior)
432.) Console courtesy light or sail panel light bezel
433.) Driver's LH rear quarter window beltline molding
434.) Passenger side console carpet trim molding
435.) Driver's side console carpet trim molding
436.) SOLD-A-pillar door opening weatherstrip molding & attaching hardware
437.) 7 headlights, 4-high/low beam, 3 high beam (2 are T3)
438.) Miscellaneous lot of 34 bulbs & 43 fuses
439.) Hood hinge bolts
440.) Assorted lot of the different fender bolts
441.) New Steele Rubber antenna lead firewall grommet
442.) 1963 glovebox light & switch
443.) Full set hood to cowl seal clips
444.) 1963 Heater/AC inner fender control box wiring
445.) SOLD-1963-1964 ignition switch bezel and lock nut
446.) SOLD-Ignition switch light bracket
447.) SOLD-Stainless headlight retainer rings
448.) License plate light assembly
449.) SOLD-1963-1964 back up light lens
450.) Rear quarter window glass-tinted & clear
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9 hours ago, WildcatMN said:
How do the WWs on the new Diamondback tires hold up? I put Hankook on one of the 72s last year and was dismayed at how brown they were and stayed after a lot of clean up. In fact, now staring at them for 60 seconds I am convinced they get browner before my very eyes.
Meanwhile all the old rubber has nice, bright whitewalls...
I finally gave up the fight with the brown whitewalls. I bit the bullet and ordered Diamondbacks last year. They make the tires to your specifications and vulcanize the whitewall to the tire with a barrier between the whitewall and the tire to prevent the leeching of the brown into the whitewall. I am very happy with the ride, the look and the whitewalls that stay white.
Bill
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19 minutes ago, XframeFX said:
Thanks Bill,
Diamondback I tires are available in my size. However, the coupon was unsuccessful.
Only one Auburn Premium available in 14", not my size. However, I added that one to their Cart and "Coupon successfully applied. Still $303 shipping to Canada via FEDEX! Then there's mounting and balancing at a tire shop, more $$$!
BSWs from Walmart?
Hi John,
I am guessing that the free shipping probably only applies to the lower 48. I did not see it mentioned in the e-mail. You might want to call them and see what they could do.
Bill
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I just got a notice from Diamondback Classics that they are offering free shipping on a set of 4 of their Auburn Premium tires in April. The code at checkout is: FREEAPRIL
Bill
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8 hours ago, Seafoam65 said:
OK guys, I would like advice on removing and installing the 12 inch long piece
of stainless on the right lower quarter panel between the wheel well and the door. My original has a small ding in it and I bought a perfect used one but not sure of best way to remove the old one and install the new one......looking
forward to your advice.
Hi Winston,
I have done this a couple of times on my 1963. Right or wrong, this is what I did. Others may have a different take.
That piece is held on with plastic clips pictured below. There are 3 ways to remove that I see.
1). Push the clips out from the backside as Chuck suggested. That would involve taking out the back seat, interior rear quarter panels, etc.
2). From the door side of the molding gently pull toward the front of the car and the molding should slide off of the clips. This is what I have done.
3). These moldings slip over small ridges on the top and bottom of the clips. Take something that will not hurt the paint such as plastic pry tools and gently slip the top or bottom off of the clip. Then it should pull off easily.
To reinstall I placed the molding in position or close to it and hooked it over the top (or Bottom) of the clip and then with gentle pressure push down (or up) on the molding to get it to slip over the opposite edge. Once it is over the clips you can slide it back and forth to get it exactly where it should be. I don't remember but, I may have loosened the rear wheel opening molding so that the molding would pull off and reposition easier on that end.
You could also slide it back on the way it was pulled off. I did not do it this way as I was worried that the front edge might catch and scratch the paint.
I hope this helps.
Bill
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1 hour ago, Seafoam65 said:
I bought a vinyl label online ten years ago......it was readily available at that time.
I was not suggesting that these were not previously available. I was merely trying to help out my friend, a fellow forum member and other forum members. I am sure that there are many people out there that did not know a vinyl version was available. Now they know.
Bill
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39 minutes ago, XframeFX said:
Bill, you have a '63 as well.
I think vinyl is good. Paper would become nicked the first time one were to remove the bottle with AC tubing directly above the bottle. Am I the only one having to "work" the bottle out from its bracket?
I would like a cap to go with that label.
Hi John,
Yes, I have a 1963 also. I sprayed my paper label with several coats of clear lacquer and it has held up pretty well. I remove my Kleer-View bottle every fall when I put the car away for the winter. I have to be very careful when removing it from the bracket and putting it back in. It has held up pretty well.
The Optikleen label is shorter than the Kleer-View label so you do not have have that problem. Bob may have caps as well. If not they are available from many different sources. I know James Kehr has them.
Bill
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Today I received a sample of the vinyl Optikleen and Kleer-View bottle labels from Turbinator Industries, Inc. The labels have an adhesive back and are made of a heavy vinyl. In my mind these are clearly superior to the awful paper labels that we have had to put up with for years. I will be field testing one of the labels on my car this summer to see how they hold up to heat and grime of the engine compartment.
As of now there are 2 versions available. I am lobbying the head of the Research and Development Department for Turbinator Industries to also produce the "Buick" version of the Kleer-View label. The head of the R & D department can be a little cranky but, hopefully, he will listen to reason and will soon come through with this version. If you are interested in one of these labels contact the Sales Department of Turbinator Industries. They are very reasonably priced.
Bill
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I am writing this to bring attention to the fine work that the "Turbinator" does in reclaiming wayward turbine wheel covers from the scrap heap.
Last spring I purchased a set of 4 turbine wheel covers for my 1963. One of the cover's condition was severely misrepresented by the seller and it was not able to be used on my car. I had a spare cover that I was able to get into the condition where I could use it in place of this bad cover. Rather than banish this cover to a shelf never to be seen again I decided to send it to my good friend Bob "Turbinator" Burnopp to see if he could work his magic to save this cover.
You can see in the first 3 pictures an example of the poor condition it was in. It was severely pitted and stained. Truthfully, I did not hold out much hope of it being brought back to a condition where it could be used on my car. I was wrong. I received the cover back from Bob and was amazed at the transformation. I had to do some finishing sanding and polishing but, the heavy lifting and hard work was done by Bob.
This cover will be going on my car in the spring when it comes out of hibernation. You can see from the rest of the pictures how nice it looks now.
If you need turbines or have turbines that need reconditioning you can rest assured that Bob will do right by you. Thank you Bob!
Bill
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38 minutes ago, RivNut said:
Last night I was looking at different sites that sold webbing by the yard. The seven panel webbing was about 1/3 the price of 3 panel (OEM Buick) and 5 panel webbing. Until last night I didn’t realize there were differences. All said they had the same strength. Why the difference in price?
Ed,
I never asked. I figured it was either original OEM. Which would make it in short supply as it is not being made anymore. Or they were having it reproduced as the original was. Being that there is such a small market for this it would be very expensive to have it reproduced.
Bill
1968 front door weather strip
in Buick Riviera
Posted
You get what you pay for. You will never regret anything you buy from Steele Rubber. Great products and perfect fit. Rubber the Right Way is another good source.
I am sure that there are people out there who have had no problems with OPGI but, as a general rule people have found that staying away from OPGI is a good thing to do. Many other reputable sources for Riviera parts. They are known for sub-par quality, poor fitment and many things ordered are often on "back order" never to arrive. I am still waiting for a set of floor mats I ordered in 2014 that are on "back order".
Bill