Voodootrance46s
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Posts posted by Voodootrance46s
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13 hours ago, Craig cw said:
The best part for me is this!
I said scam as a click bait title haha I live in So Cal and was so tempted to make the drive up there! Glad it worked out!
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https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1948-buick-fireball-straight/6688743159.html
Not sure if it has been posted before but seems like a great deal seeing that it has the dual carbs. not sure if it has the dual exhaust?? If I was closer to Oregon I would check it out!
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Thanks again guys for the input. I didn't specify I was looking for a synchromesh engine my bad. I guess the dynaflow isn't a deal breaker. I could always go with an adapter.
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Seems like a long shot but I'm looking for a runner. Not necessarily looking for the accessories just the long block. Ive searched the local craigslist and I haven't had any luck. Any insight would be appreciated
-Voodoo
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Well for the lifters, basically I can push down on the rocker arm and move it up and down. I removed the distributor right when I installed the head and primed the oil system till the push rod tubes were pushing oil into the lifters. Now that I'm sitting here thinking about it I probably had great compression when I installed the new head is because I added some oil to the cylinders to do my own leak down test. Cleaned the cylinders as best I could to remove the excess oil. Gave great readings initially but once the left over oil was gone then there goes my compression.
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48 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:
Can you advise how you went about adjusting the valves? In the picture you posted the rocker adjustments look to be pretty well turned down.
I say that because it looks like there are a lot of threads visible above the lock nut on the rockers. Turning the adjusters that tight may be limiting the amount the valves can open, thus reducing the amount of charge in each cylinder, and impeding the ability to run.
Looking at the hometown Buick site I see the 53 manual only seems to deal with the heads and adjustments for the new V8. I did not see the section for the straight 8. So looking at the 52 service manual I see that the recommendation is to run the engine to operating temperature under road driving conditions. Otherwise you need a wider valve adjustment to begin with. I assume wider in this instance means there would be less threads visible above the lock nuts, similar to your # 1 cylinder adjustments.
I went off the manual for 51. The issue I was having is that the lifters would collapse. Just to get by I had to take up the slack on some and tighten as necessary . The mechanic at the shop narrowed it down to the pistons as he did a leak down test, only 7&8 did well.
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Ok small update seems the compression is way too low on the front cylinders. I'm talking about 30 psi up to 120 for cylinders 7 and 8. Kinda surprised seeing that when I installed the new head I had great compression across the board. Not sure why the change! I know the valves aren't staying open checked it several time. I had a shop do a leak down test and it came down to the piston rings. Can a head gasket give similar results? Kinda at a loss here as I don't have the kind of funds to do a straight 8 rebuild. I'm not really into to losing the straight 8 either. I'm thinking of actually selling the car to someone who can actually do something with it. Thanks again to those that chimed in really appreciate the input.
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Thanks for all the replies! I will check the insulation on the wire inside the distributor.
Another thing I noticed is that the engine is flooding quite often. I look down the intake and can see a pool of fuel just sitting there. I have gaskets on the intake and exhaust manifold. I hear different suggestions on running those. The only fuel being added is when I twist the throttle to engage the starter. I'm going to try and record a video to help give a better idea of whats going on.
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Well where to start? I have a 263 straight 8 from a 53 that I can't seem to get running for the life of me. I have the manual for the car and have good luck getting info from this forum. I ran down the checklist over and over and on paper this car should run! Like i said the Buick is a 51 special with the synchromesh trans. The engine was dated to be a 53. I have great compression on all cylinders within spec. Valves are adjusted the best I can (hydraulic lifters). New coil, Starter, New 6 volt battery, rebuilt distributor i.e. new points, cap rotor, plugs and wires. I even had the head rebuilt after finding out that I had low compression due to some bad valves. The wiring is shot and I had it temporarily wired to try and get it to fire. I followed the correct wiring diagram and is able to turn over using the gas pedal. I'm at a complete loss here and I have to be missing something. I tried the ole 12 volt to the starter trick to help crank it fast enough actually helped but nothing. I can get it to sputter but not catch! Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance! Added some photos that really help nothing.
-Harvey
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Parts for sale look to be off of late 30's Buick. They were on a 263 engine that was backdated to fit a 38 Buick.
Parts list:
-Intake manifold good shape no cracks $75.
-Stromberg Carb needs rebuild $50.
-Clutch pressure plate, Flywheel, Bell housing, Throw out bearing and clutch fork $100
Open to offers any questions feel free to ask
-Harvey
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Also any info on these would be much appreciated. I've been trying to search but no luck. The engine and trans are out of the car and I'm not sure what else is missing or if they fit. The throw out arm doesn't look like the one from the manual but was installed anyways. Thanks in advance!
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Nice original paint 2 door Buick. The car has been sitting for over 30 years out in Lancaster Ca. Hopefully one day I'll have her back on the road. I've been trying to do as much research on the car and try and wrap my head around as to what I got myself into.
This is the first time working on this type of car, I'm usually working on old VW's 
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One last thing for now, so I would need to replace the old bell housing? Or the clutch arm?:confused:
Thank you Ben and Sean for the help, will keep posting further progress!
-Harvey
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The engine has something written saying its from a 38. Looks pretty mix matched with different year parts. Thanks again for the replies.
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I have what I believe is an engine from a 38 Buick, I was wondering what needs to be done to make it work in the 51? Granted this engine will only be temporary till I find a 263. Is it worth the hassle? Any input would be great! Thanks in advance.
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Hello all! My name is Harvey and recently purchased a 1951 Buick Special model 46s. Always wanted an old Buick and can't wait to get her back on the road!
This is the first time working on this type of car, I'm usually working on old VW's 
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Some resting & rusting Buicks
in Buick - General
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