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Everything posted by smspaul

  1. Hmm, before pulling the carb, just for kicks, adjust the timing 'by ear' if you can. i.e. bring it back where you have a slow/smooth idle. It could very well be that the dist is off by one gear when it was installed and when timing by the marks it's not matching up to what it's supposed to be.
  2. Just thought of something, you said the timing is 'Right on'. ....how does it run if the timing is advanced another 5 degrees or so?
  3. Assuming that it was running/driving when you got it. I think what might help everyone here is if you could list out what changes and adjustments you made since you've had it. Preferably in order of how you made the changes and adjustments.
  4. That would be my first move. Or just leave it straight, take the cover off and adjust the pump arm to compensate for the position change that occurred when you straightened it.
  5. Now that you straightened the pump rod, that repositioned the internal (whatchamacallit) and could very well be what is now making it idle rough when in gear. ;-) That was fine previously correct? Also, Engine Idle RPM (warm-choke off) is 450rpm
  6. Start off with the easy things before getting too deep or making too many adjustments. Does it start right back up after stalling out when warm? If so, I think it may be a fuel delivery issue. Watch to see if you are getting bubbles in the sediment bowl when it is running. If not, it may be that fuel tank sediment has gotten into the carb. If you do see bubbles, if there is an in-line filter, that could be clogging up or the sock filter on the new fuel sending unit/pickup may be getting clogged up from old sediment while it is sucking the fuel from the tank. Start from the sediment bowl and work your way back. The low idle adjust is reached from the front, underneath next to the throttle linkage. You have to pull the throttle all the way open to get a screwdriver angled to reach it. This, however shouldn't have changed though since you've had it unless other adjustments have been made.
  7. Is this a new rebuild or has it been sitting? I believe it is supposed to be 450. If your points and timing are set properly, you should be able to get there.
  8. Congrats! I've got a 4bbl intake for that and a slew of other parts if you need anything PM me.
  9. Good advice Al!! Mine are off of a '55 FYI. ;-)
  10. I've got an extra of each for a 322 Nailhead with Dynaflow. If you're interested send me a PM.
  11. I've got quite a few available from 322 Nailhead. How many do you need? Intake?/Exhaust? Both?
  12. Yes! Need the panel on the top left just below the visor. ...but again I'll concede to Super_Hermitage as he started the post so he's got first dibbs. How much you asking?
  13. If you're still looking for one, I have one available with several other 322 parts. PM me for details.
  14. I'm also looking for the same drivers door panel and have been for several months now. They seem to be the elusive Bigfoot of the '55 Super Riviera. If anyone has a source for these please help! :-) Here's what one looks like. Of course Super_Hermitage you have first dibbs but I'd even be happy if someone could cast one so I could fabricate a replacement. ;-) Here's a pict of one.
  15. Oh, I guess I should mention the total costs....(approximate) Replacement gaskets: $100 Rings: $50 Oil & Filter: $30 Time spent with my Dad: Priceless (I'm sure 'my mechanic' would have just told me to do a full rebuild at the cost of about $5000
  16. Final update!!! While having the motor apart, even though the rings appeared new I went ahead and installed new ones. Then while re-assembling tested the heads, everything was beautiful as well. I took old-tank's advice and examined the rocker arm assemblies. Sure enough, the notch was on the bottom (holes on top) Upside-down. So I corrected those. I did also have a set of the Fel-pro gaskets around which I wasn't going to use but went ahead with them anyway. Once fully re-assembled and set up to test in the rolling chassis I got her running and became a bit anxious watching it blow color out of the tailpipes as it took a few minutes for the new rings to set. After about 10-15min, cleared right up and let her continue to run for about a half-hour or so. Beautiful purr, no smoke, no noise. Success!! Thanks for all the help and input! Here's a quick video of it running.... http://www.facebook.com/paul.williamson.549/videos/o.6864028574/10152790088212644
  17. Yes also looking forward to the picts. Are you going to have a machine shop hot tank and do measurements for you?
  18. Ok, so here's the latest. I pulled the heads and the first thing I noticed was the intake valves and surrounding area was very wet with oil on the bottom side of the head indicating oil getting down the valve guides and into the cylinders. Some worse than others. Also, I did notice that it had the cheap Fel-Pro head gaskets which I'll be sure to use the Best Gasket ones when putting her back together. Then just to check the rings, I pulled the pistons and they were absolutely gorgeous! New pistons, rings, bearings, etc. :-) Everything was moving and clear, measurements were all excellent. So, I'll test and do measurements on the heads and valves. I'm thinking that at the minimum the intake valve guides (with seals) will need to be replaced and if it has the old 2-part exhaust valves I'd better do those at the same time. I did notice that the push rod holes had been ported larger so they have been worked on as well. What else should I be looking for?
  19. So, here's the progress update. The block from the super and many of the parts are excellent so I'm working on the rebuild on that. (the busted up cylinder is my fault...long story) Just pulled the engine from the Century which has a hole punched in the side of the block and a broken rocker arm. It's interesting that the rocker arm is busted but the rod is nearly perfectly straight still. I'm excited to tear this down in the next couple of days to see what caused all this damage. I'll salvage usable parts from this and scrap the block. The running engine and tranny in the rolling chassis still has a bit of blue smoke so before putting it in the Century I'm going to pull the heads and pistons, change out the rings, do measurements and test the heads. It purrs wonderfully except for the burning oil bit so I think it's just the oil rings haven't loosened up after sitting for a few years as there is decent compression. Once the Century is up and running good I'll put that one up for sale and finish the Super for me. :-) Oh, and sorry, I'm using the dropped uprights and knee action shocks off of the chassis.
  20. Excellent points there! Ya, I'm kinda leaning toward just pulling the heads and pan, then its a hop-skip to pull the pistons, change out the rings and measure the bearings. All in a days work while it's sitting there just begging me to! ;-) ....of course I have another nailhead stripped down doing a complete rebuild....better finish that one first. Oh, decisions! I'll keep you all posted.
  21. Ok, so here are the readings after tonights tests after running it for about 15-20 min. Oil Pressure: 32psi @ idle Cylinder compression: 7-140, 8-150 5-130, 6-150 3-130, 4-150 1-120, 2-160
  22. This is hopefully all it is. It is actually out of the car and on a rolling chassis right now so I don't think the cops would like me to take it out for a hundred mile run down the road LOL, but I'll do a compression test this evening (cold and hot) to see where that lands. I'd just like to troubleshoot this before going to the extent of dropping it in the car and then having to pull it again.
  23. It is coming out the draft tube as well but only after it has completely warmed up.
  24. I have a '55 322 nailhead that is purring beautifully. Problem is that it's been sitting for a few years before I acquired it recently. I've changed the oil with a bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and had it running off and on for quite a bit. It has good oil flow, lifters and rods doing their job, etc. On startup no heavy blue smoke out the tailpipes on idle, little bit when hitting the throttle. However, once it warms up that all changes to heavy blue and I start seeing a bit of blue smoke coming out of the valve cover vents as well. Before I start the tear down, do you think it sounds more like worn valve guides, oil rings, or both? :confused:
  25. Finally got the temp sensor bulb loose. That took a lot of careful patience, then everything else seemed to click right along and got the engine pulled, tranny separated, heads removed and pistons pulled. (one completely destroyed). The block and crank do look good though so that's a relief. The timing chain cover cost me a pocket full of quarters in the 'swear jar' but finally got it broke loose. Once I removed that I was a bit confused about the timing marks ...until I consulted the shop manual and it started to make more sense. (kinda). The cam and crank feel very solid with no play at all and turn very smooth. The sprockets look good as well but I'm startled that the chain is so loose. Is that normal for wear?
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