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About smspaul

  • Birthday 07/17/1969

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  1. Hmm, before pulling the carb, just for kicks, adjust the timing 'by ear' if you can. i.e. bring it back where you have a slow/smooth idle. It could very well be that the dist is off by one gear when it was installed and when timing by the marks it's not matching up to what it's supposed to be.
  2. Just thought of something, you said the timing is 'Right on'. ....how does it run if the timing is advanced another 5 degrees or so?
  3. Assuming that it was running/driving when you got it. I think what might help everyone here is if you could list out what changes and adjustments you made since you've had it. Preferably in order of how you made the changes and adjustments.
  4. That would be my first move. Or just leave it straight, take the cover off and adjust the pump arm to compensate for the position change that occurred when you straightened it.
  5. Now that you straightened the pump rod, that repositioned the internal (whatchamacallit) and could very well be what is now making it idle rough when in gear. ;-) That was fine previously correct? Also, Engine Idle RPM (warm-choke off) is 450rpm
  6. Start off with the easy things before getting too deep or making too many adjustments. Does it start right back up after stalling out when warm? If so, I think it may be a fuel delivery issue. Watch to see if you are getting bubbles in the sediment bowl when it is running. If not, it may be that fuel tank sediment has gotten into the carb. If you do see bubbles, if there is an in-line filter, that could be clogging up or the sock filter on the new fuel sending unit/pickup may be getting clogged up from old sediment while it is sucking the fuel from the tank. Start from the sediment bowl and work your way back. The low idle adjust is reached from the front, underneath next to the throttle linkage. You have to pull the throttle all the way open to get a screwdriver angled to reach it. This, however shouldn't have changed though since you've had it unless other adjustments have been made.
  7. Is this a new rebuild or has it been sitting? I believe it is supposed to be 450. If your points and timing are set properly, you should be able to get there.
  8. Congrats! I've got a 4bbl intake for that and a slew of other parts if you need anything PM me.
  9. Good advice Al!! Mine are off of a '55 FYI. ;-)
  10. I've got an extra of each for a 322 Nailhead with Dynaflow. If you're interested send me a PM.
  11. I've got quite a few available from 322 Nailhead. How many do you need? Intake?/Exhaust? Both?
  12. Yes! Need the panel on the top left just below the visor. ...but again I'll concede to Super_Hermitage as he started the post so he's got first dibbs. How much you asking?
  13. If you're still looking for one, I have one available with several other 322 parts. PM me for details.
  14. I'm also looking for the same drivers door panel and have been for several months now. They seem to be the elusive Bigfoot of the '55 Super Riviera. If anyone has a source for these please help! :-) Here's what one looks like. Of course Super_Hermitage you have first dibbs but I'd even be happy if someone could cast one so I could fabricate a replacement. ;-) Here's a pict of one.
  15. Oh, I guess I should mention the total costs....(approximate) Replacement gaskets: $100 Rings: $50 Oil & Filter: $30 Time spent with my Dad: Priceless (I'm sure 'my mechanic' would have just told me to do a full rebuild at the cost of about $5000
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