deac

not bad when considering the price of a Ford coupe 1940 mercury coupe runs drives stops as it should good paint brand new tires serious inquiries message me https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/670651258481147/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking={"qid"%3A"-2671428080302101978"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"8666948562731167737"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A8666948562731167737%2C\"target_type\"%3A6%2C\"primary_position\"%3A3%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A8295249262225084182%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A501%2C\"value\"%3A0.00021497670127647%2C\"upsell_type\"%3A3523%2C\"candidate_retrieval_source_map\"%3A{\"5853176444807480\"%3A805%2C\"6487095601392827\"%3A3528%2C\"6172027422900739\"%3A3528%2C\"7566795650021623\"%3A3501%2C\"6881021978690610\"%3A3092%2C\"7133171826798859\"%3A3501}%2C\"grouping_info\"%3Anull}"%2C"lightning_feed_qid"%3A"-2671428629987572342"%2C"lightning_feed_ranking_signature"%3A"1093916439870907629"%2C"ftmd_400706"%3A"111112l"} This is not my car and I have no stake in the sale

1953 is the 50th anniversary for Ford and usually there's an emblem on the car signifying it. Paint the roof a nice complimenting color and you a 2 two paint that makes a bigger statement going down the road. If were on the western side of the country I would consider this car.

the price is about 5 grand too high and it looks bland because of the paint color.

good catch but 2 grand is not going to change my thinking on this car!

I disagree with the price is right statements previously made. That roof rust on the left side is not only on the roof itself but it's beneath the rubber windshield molding as well down the left rain gutter. The seller also states there is a bed liner used; might there something lurking under that as well I think the bench seat has been reupholstered and the craftsmanship might be good but the design on of the material used is too loud for my tastes; it looks like a candy shop in there

I have to disagree with 1912Staver as well. Though I to like Pontiacs and have owned 3 of them myself I would not buy something that is overpriced regardless of part of the world I lived in. I would simply wait for another one to come on the market. Needless to say this one needs too much work for $8000!

Some colors make the car more desirable and I could see that with this car. I don't think the photo's put this car in the best light and the chrome doesn't pop. However for 8800 clams it's probably a good deal! By what is described in the ad the paint, motor and interior are in good shape and those are the expensive ones!

This not a $20,000 car! The engine compartment is disjointed; engine is painted the wrong color, the positive battery lead is not sized correctly, they cheaped out on painting any part of the firewall which makes me wonder what the door jambs look like. They didn't prep the car for paint correctly and now the paint has peeled off from the left rear deck and quarter panel. The rear chrome waterfall is not painted and the panel below the rear Tennessee license plate is not painted correctly, The car has the correct deluxe chrome bumper pieces and the chrome headlight housings and the interior looks pretty good. Got some work to do to get this 12 grand carfor it to be a 20 to 25 grand and unfortunately the work needed ain't cheap! I do like the car but I would want to personally inspect it first because the workmanship on this car seems to be a bit under par.

Though I really like the Buick Rivieras, I like these GP's better... I don't know what they were thinking when they painted the alternator black. I can sort of see the air cleaner mistake but not the alternator. Also what's with engine color? A black engine is not correct...

I had a feeling that's what the issue was...

I had a friend with a 77 Firebird Formula and it had the Olds 403 in it! Since this Gran Prix is sort of a non-performance model and the horsepower in that V8 fell short of the Pontiac V8's I still think there's a good chance the Olds V8 made into the Grand Prix. The 301 V8's did make it into the Firebirds before 79 so I would be surprised if this is a 301.

I agreed with you at first but there are things on this car that have 2nd guessing my 1st impression. The grill has been sprayed silver and the front bumper isn't correct. The interior (wood?) molding above the left rear window is bubbling. The sellers description black wrapped bodywork and amateurish painted woodgrain makes me question what else is there. The Plymouth Suburban's are cool but I am not so sure this one is that cool. This one makes me think that the seller took a decent runner and in the cheapest way possible made it into something that is desirable(?) Okay maybe the roof rack might not fall into my description of cheapest way possible.

This one is currently listed on BaT 1963 Pontiac Grand Prix https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1963-pontiac-grand-prix-11/ This 1963 Pontiac Grand Prix was refurbished under prior ownership and is powered by a 389ci V8 paired with a three-speed automatic transmission. Finished in silver over red vinyl upholstery, the car is equipped with a four-barrel carburetor, eight-lug 14” wheels, power steering, power brakes, dual exhaust, a center console, and a push-button AM/FM radio. The car was acquired by the current owner in 2011, and service performed in 2023 has included rebuilding the starter and replacing the transmission fluid. This Grand Prix is now offered at no reserve by the seller on behalf of the owner with manufacturer’s literature, workshop manuals, a car cover, and a clean Kentucky title. The Grand Prix was updated for the 1963 model year with revised sheetmetal, a concave rear window, and a striated tail panel and taillights. This example left the factory finished in two-tone Cameo Ivory and Silvermist Gray (CCD) and was repainted in silver under prior ownership. Exterior details include stacked headlights, a fender-mounted side mirror, and chrome bumpers. Eight-lug 14″ wheels are mounted over finned aluminum brake drums and wear 225/70 BFGoodrich Silvertown Radial red-line tires showing 2007 production date codes. The car is equipped with power steering and power-assisted brakes. The cabin features front bucket seats and a rear bench trimmed in red vinyl with a color-coordinated lower dashboard, door panels, and carpets. Woodgrain trim accents the steering wheel and the dash, and additional appointments include a push-button AM/FM radio, a clock, a lockable glove compartment and center console, front lap belts, and clear rubber floor mats. Wear on the driver’s seat cushion is shown up close in the photo gallery below. The two-spoke steering wheel has a chrome horn ring, and the transparent portions of the rim are yellowed and cracked. Instrumentation consists of a sweeping 120-mph speedometer and gauges for alternator output, fuel level, and manifold vacuum. The five-digit odometer shows 47k miles, approximately 100 of which have been added under current ownership. Power is sent to the rear wheels through a three-speed automatic transmission, the fluid for which was replaced in 2023. True mileage is unknown. The 389ci V8 is equipped with a Carter four-barrel carburetor and a dual exhaust system. The fuel pump is said to have been replaced and the most recent oil change performed in 2020, and the starter was rebuilt in 2023. The seller notes that the car requires extended cranking to start after sitting for extended periods. .This is not my car and I have no stake in the sale!

WOW I am impressed. The seller had a mundane family car and turned into a cool cruiser without any body modifications! In my book he did it right and didn't goof it up with a bunch of doo-dads and/or install a big modern V8 with louvers in the hood. I like it - very well done!

So I am thinking this car is a cool 'tin woody' then I re-read the description and the quote listed above above caught my eye. I think the seller sort of cheated here and wrapped the car and didn't paint it. That and the lower quality wood grain job makes the price seem way out of line. But it still looks pretty good for a 12 thousand dollar car.

The price is a little lofty for a 4 door 6 cylinder model. But someone has put money and time in to it! It's cool, so buy it and drive it!

That is one of my favorite years. Can I assume that it has the Olds 403 V8 with a TH400 trans in it? I would like the model with the bucket seat, console and a floor shifter. Cool car with a decent price.

I so wish the collection was closer to me!

The ad has been deleted!

First I will tackle the preload adjustment - After the link was repaired ALL of the parts were cleaned and ALL of the grease was clean out of the link. Both right and left tie rods were placed. After inspection the internals were greased, put together and the link was installed in the car. We were able to get the tow adjust pretty darn close to spec. Then I test drove the car and heard the noise when going most speed bumps. Once back at the shop adjusted the preload tighter and I went for the 2nd road test and it popped like once out 3 speed bumps. I didn't go further with it for reasons I don't remember. For 2 or 3 months I did other work on the car and drove basically on flat roads and the car drove impressively well; no pop noise! 2 weeks ago I drove over some speed bumps and heard to pop again. So it is only in the last 2 weeks that the preload adjust has been loosened up as I been on a quest to eliminate this issue thinking it could get worse. As for locating the parts; In my preliminary internet search I have not had much luck. However I do plan to call Bob's, Cars, Rare Parts, BOP parts and FCRC machine parts. Out of those 4 places I think I just might find a source. Once our hoist comes available my car goes up and then I will be able to assess and hopefully repair the steering issue.

In regards to the ball, when it was disassembled the ball cleaned up well; there were no pits or scuffs and looked good. We didn't put a micrometer on it and that ball is used right now. At that same time there was grease on all of those parts and was no foreign particles or grittiness suspended in it. I doubt it's the ball on the pitman arm. I only hear the pop noise when driving over speed bumps or a pronounced change in road elevation like drainage dips and driveways. Therefore I wonder if the clunk noise I hear when the car stationery is the same pop noise I hear going over bumps at 10 to 15 mph. I guess I am over thinking it and won't know until I pull it apart. The center link rebuilt kit for a 40 Buick is not listed in their catalogue so if you can point me in the direction of someone who has, it would save me a lot of time.

I will try not to be long winded here. I have determined that there is constant noise when turn the steering right and left. The noise is a clunk when the is sitting and me under the car and someone else is turning the wheel. It's coming from movement where the pitman arm an center link connect. I have a suspicion that a spring or more have collapsed or are just worn out. Bob's sells a center link rebuild kit but it's for 1941 thru 53 cars. Anyone know where I can buy rebuild kit for a 1940?

Let me get something straight.... The pre-load is adjusted with this nut located at the end of the center link. I am under the assumption that if you turn that nut in as far as it will go you are compressing the pre-load springs and the steering wheel will have the least amount of play or slop. If you start backing out the nut then you are releasing the pre-load spring(s) and you will get increasingly slop/play. I believe this is the case with my car. So right now the nut is 3 turns out and those pre-load springs are hardly compressed. The car steers great on the road and at 3 turns out there is no drag when turning the wheel. The slop is only noticeable when the tires are pointed straight. I am pretty sure the steering box has never been rebuilt so there's is wear on those internal gears.. Though I haven't driven the car at this setting I can assume there is slop in the wheel and the pop noise will be heard over speed bumps. So I am starting to think there's 2 repairs and then a recheck. One is to turn the nut in so it compresses the springs and takes the slop out from the steering wheel until the pop/bang is eliminated. Second, I think I should replace those preload springs and that will probably lessen the how far I adjust the pre-load nut! So far I have adjusted the pre-load nut 2 times with the front end of jack stands so that there would not be any tension on the front suspension and the steering wheel would turn freely. I will try the prybar/fulcrum idea today and see if that uncovers any additional issues. I attribute this issue to the steering linkage breaking apart (described above) because this has not been an issue before that happened. Additionally the tie rod ends were replaced in the initial repair

An update about the 44S coupe from South Dakota! My buddy has put a lot of work into this coupe and today it paid off- it fired up with a quick test drive to follow! He did the following: Powder coated the wheels and replaced the tires. removed the gas tank, had it cleaned and coated and installed a new fuel sender. Blew out the fuel lines and rebuilt the fuel pump. Replaced the master cylinder and all the wheel cylinders then bled the brakes with new fluid. Replaced the coil and installed AC46 spark plugs. Fixed the taillights/brake lights. When it first started it blew a bunch of crap out the exhaust pipe and then it hummed and no smoke was seen. Unfortunately the radiator leaks badly I don't know just what this car was exposed to in south Dakota but I have not seen a car with so much caked on and dried mock on the undercarriage as this one. But all the gauges do work. But the fun was driving my 40 Buick coupe and him driving his 41 Buick coupe to lunch and both car coincidently are the same color I have found these message boards really helpful, interesting and a resource for buying cars. These Buicks came from the 'not mine' thread and so did my 47 Ford. Pretty darn cool. A thanks to all that contribute!

I did check the preload (refer to the 'F nut' in the diagram in my previous post) and I found the nut improperly adjusted at approximately 2 turns out so i carefully set it at 3 1/2 turns. As I left the shop for a test drive I immediately noticed the steering wheel had more play in it and the steering felt lighter. I gave it the real test and went over 3 successive speed bumps and on every one of those bumps I heard the pop/bang noise. Back in the shop I adjusted the pre-load from 3 1/2 turns to 3 turns. I didn't go for another drive as I am thinking the noise will still be there. While under the car I tried to see if there was any sort of play in the tie rod links and they were tight; no play what so ever! What I am thinking is the pop noise is only prevalent when the suspension is going up or down. On straight and flat roads the car steers normal and no pop's heard. So I thought it in must be tie rods because they are going to affected most by the ups and downs of the suspension! I could buy the hardware for the preload assembly but I am not sure that's problem. So what to do??