Made In Michigan
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Posts posted by Made In Michigan
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Alan, that is exactly what I am looking for! I was pretty sure that was the way I understood the post but wanted to make sure before I put everything back together. I've never seen dustcovers underneath the floor pan or ride the arm like these do. Thanks, Frank.
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Thanks for the reply, in a different post someone wrote to put the flat side up to the bottom of the floorboard so when you push on the clutch/brake pedal the gasket would ride down with the arm and return back up and seal against the bottom of the floorboard when released. I'm guessing either would work, wondering which is correct. Also, the raised part of the gasket does it extend up into the cab or down towards the engine compartment? I'm aware that asking anyone to take photographs then post them is asking a lot however sometimes its the only way to see how exactly how its put together. Thanks again.
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Can someone please post a picture of the floorboard where the clutch and the brake pedals come through? I need to see how the rubber dust seals are installed. I have both pedals removed and am ready for final assembly. Thanks.
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The steering on my 37 1.5 ton is stiff, meaning when driving and turning a corner you can usually let go of the steering wheel and it will easly right itself. Mine does not do that at all. when turning the steering wheel there seams to be a lot of resistance. I've recently sent the steering gear box to Lares for rebuild and they did a great job, I dont think thats the problem. I jacked up the front end and turned the wheel side to side and it feels fine but back on the ground and it the same old issue. Wondering if I my have the drag link to tight as they are adjustable. Any ideas?
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Problem solved. I jacked up the rear end and started it up, checked the belt, pulley, fan blade. Everything ran fine so I removed the driveshaft and took it to a specialist, they told me it was so far out of tune it couldn’t be fixed so they cut off the ends and welded them on a new tube and balanced it. $188. Just now went for a test run, got it up to 45 mph and it was all smooth sailing!
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Haha, WOW! I’ve heard a bent fan blade can cause vibration I’ll check that too. Anyone want to buy a 37? I’m going to give it a good deal of attention and report back, thanks so much for all your input Dave, I sincerely appreciate it!
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When I had it in the frame shop they balanced the front wheels and shaved the high spots on the tires to make them perfectly round and corrected the toe in. That cured the death wobble, apparently the vibration was always there and I never noticed it because I couldn’t go faster than 25 without the front end shaking so violently (death wobble). Vibration feels like it’s under the floor. The slip joint is bolted to the sack of the hand brake I suppose it’s possible that could be out of balance but doubtful, I’m going to remove the driveshaft and do the tow thing at 45 mph. Gotta start somewhere
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If I get it up to speed and put it in neutral the driveshaft is still spinning, the u-joints are new and greased. I like the idea of removing the driveshaft and towing it at 40 mph that would tell me if it’s the driveshaft or not. If I can get someone to help me I’ll try both ideas this weekend. Thanks for the replies
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My 1937 1.5 ton truck has a vibration at around 35 mph. the faster I go the worse it gets. Feels to me like a unbalanced driveshaft. I removed the driveshaft from the rear and spun it 180 degrees then reinstalled it hoping it might solve the problem but it didn't. Any suggestions? I just recently solved my death wobble problem, the toe in was way off and I had the front wheels balanced. Rides real smooth now till I get up to speed then the vibration starts. Its too rapid or fast paced to be the wheels.
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No, Vic’s Dodge garage took care of my issue
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Can someone post a few pictures of their wiper motor both from inside (behind inspection panel) and outside of the truck? There are two mounting pieces, one inside and one outside that hold the motor in place. I don't know if I have the wrong mounts or the wrong motor but something isn't right. I sent my motor to Ficken Wiper in New York for rebuild and either I sent the wrong motor or they returned the wrong one. Pictures would help immensely! 37 and 38 are the same. I usually video anything I take apart for future reference but not this time, big mistake! Thanks, Frank.
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John, That is correct, spot welded and they are tiny welds! I looked closely at mine and there is no gasket material at all. Good luck. Frank
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I’ll check it out tomorrow and report back to you, great picture by the way, that is a sizable gap Im guessing some kind of gasket material but I’ll check it out
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Thanks for the post John, I painted the steering column grey and I sent the wheel and horn button to Koch’s in California
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Thanks Alan, I asked what those wholes were for but never could figure it out. A picture or two would be great!
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I asked this question a few years ago with no response thought I would try again so here goes, the carburetor return spring pulls back to the firewall/floorboard, what does it connect to? I drilled a hole in the upper floorboard screw and hooked it to that however there seams to be a lot of tension on the spring. I'm hoping someone will post a picture.
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Does anyone know the original color used on a 1937 1.5 ton steering wheel? Also, what is the original body color called? It appears to be a med/dark grey
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That's a great idea I wish I would of seen your post sooner but I made my own puller. I will definitely drill and tap mine when I get it back. The shaft is keyed and not splined, it didn't want to come off and when it did it popped off with a loud bang, meaning it didn't creep off the shaft like other's that I've removed.
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I’ve been spraying PB Blaster. It took me 4 hours but I made my own wheel puller. It kind of resembles the puller shown in the Dodge truck shop manual, its on the wheel now and the pressure is on but no movement yet so every couple hours or so I spray more blaster so time will tell
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I have several gear pullers but I have nothing to remove the steering wheel. Any suggestions? Probably going to need something like the tool used in the Dodge truck manual, but I have nothing that even comes close.
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Thanks for all the information. I love this forum! Dave, I'd hate to tear into these and mess things up. I will remove them from the frame and take a closer look, thanks again
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My front shocks seam to work fine, however they leak oil. Does anyone know where i can send them to be rebuilt? 1937 1.5 ton ME-31
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Thank you for the information. I will contact them this week and look into what can be done on my gear box.
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On my 37 ME-31 1.5 ton truck I'm experiencing the dreaded death wobble, I've found some play between the steering wheel and the gear box, does anyone know where I can send my gear box to be rebuilt? It is the sector type. I've tried to adjust the worm adjustment screw and it did nothing. MY shop manual doesn't go into much detail on how to do any adjustments
37 1/2 ton cab to frame bolts.
in Dodge Trucks
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My 37 has four body to frame points, three have long bolts with springs. The only point that has a short bolt no spring is the driver side front. Hope this helps. Frank