Jim Bird

Members
  • Content Count

    54
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Jim Bird

  1. Thanks Hemi and Nile and Reaper for the suggestions. I did lubricate the clutch cable fittings and tightened all the turbo hoses. Did not seem to make much if any difference. Maybe my memory of the acceleration kick is not that good. The car runs well and at 80 plus years I really don't need to get anywhere in a big hurry. Car cruises comfortably and easily at more than legal highway speeds, so I will leave well enough alone and just " Enjoy The Ride" Thanks again and stay safe in these strange times
  2. I have a 1990 16 valve TC that has just under 38000 miles on it. I have had the car for seven years and just love it. However I think the clutch is slipping. The car goes into winter storage every year but back on the road this year it does not seem to accelerate like it used to do. Not that I floor it very often, but now it seems to rev very quickly ( into redline territory ) but without the strong acceleration surge and torque steer that I remember. The build date on the car is October 1989. I have the red TC service manual but that seems to indicate that even the Chrysler dealers at the time could do little in the way of service on the Getrag transmission. Is the clutch throw adjustable? Driving it today it seems that all of the clutch engagement is in the top half of the pedal travel which makes me think that the clutch is not fully engaged. Or maybe this is normal. I have a very good independent transmission shop close to home but before I take the TC in I thought it would be appropriate to get some input from the TC experts in our club. Thanks in advance and to all club members Stay Safe and Stay Healthy Jim Bird
  3. Thanks Hemi and Mathew. Will follow up with hydraulic hose shop Jim Bird
  4. The air on my 1990 16 valve has not functioned since I bought it six years ago. Now I would like to repair and convert it to134a. Parts like compressor, drier, expansion valve and evaporator seem to be readily available from Rock Auto. However the system has leakage from hoses and crimped fittings etc. Can anyone suggest a source for these?
  5. Thanks Hemi. Will order as the accumulator in my 1990 16 valve is still original.
  6. Looked at the above site. They list specs and a list of compatible vehicles but that list does not include our TC. Has anyone checked the specs for compatibility with the TC?
  7. I need to convert the AC on my 1990 16 valve from R12 to 134a. Very interested in what components you are replacing and in others experience in doing this.
  8. Nasty surprise today. A rock through my driver side headlight. Light is still functional but lens is cracked and has hole in it. Can lens be replaced or does the whole unit have to be replaced? Is there a recommended source for necessary parts? Jim Bird 1990 16 valve
  9. Thanks to all My tool kit is missing the gloves, the swiss army knife and the Sterilix bandages .Not too difficult to replace. Also did not realize the screw driver was reversible. BTW the handle on mine is blue. The reality is we are probably never going to use these as they are not exactly high quality tools
  10. Can anyone post a photo of a complete tool kit? I have a tool kit but it is obviously not complete and I don't know what is missing Thanks Jim Bird
  11. Can anyone post a picture of a complete tool kit? My car has a tool kit but it is not complete and I don't know what is missing. Thanks Jim Bird
  12. Are you anywhere near Hamilton Ont? I too have a 1990 16 valve TC (red and ginger) Can't imagine that there are many 16 valves in Canada. Mine has 35000 miles on the odometer, but I have not had it as long as you have yours. I have however been a member of TC America for several years. It is a great source of info and advice for TC owners. Welcome to the club.
  13. I have not bought or sold on BAT but I have watched numerous auctions over the past couple of years and have seen surprising results in both senses. They are always interesting if only for the shear number of mostly knowledgeable comments. There seems to be a very large community that follows BAT. I think the key is good photography and lots of it. You will also need to be prepared to answer promptly to the large volume of questions, comments, etc. that you will generate. If you go this route it will be very interesting to see how one of our favourite vehicles fares. It is not a 16 valve but as you describe it I would think that $5000 is very reachable. Not sure of BAT's rules governing their auctions but in some cases there are reserves in place. Good Luck if you go this route.
  14. I agree with mensaguy. Hemi is an invaluable resource for our club. Along with many others
  15. Thanks to all for the input. Does not look too difficult. Jim Bird
  16. I need to replace the rubber sealing strip that is attached to the front edge of the small quarter window and is the seal between that and the front window. Has anyone suggestions for doing this? Does the quarter window have to be removed or can it be done with the window in place? Looks like two separate pieces. A metal frame attached to the window and a rubber/plastic weather strip mounted in the frame. The rubber/plastic is what I need to replace
  17. Would you have the two plastic seat belt protectors that are located at the floor mounts on the outside of each seat?
  18. I need to replace the oil pressure sender on my 1990 16 valve TC. It is leaking oil. Does the same sender fit both the 16 V engine and the 8V engine??? One of the Canadian on line parts suppliers ( I am in Canada ) lists a BWD Oil Pressure Sender with gauge ( BWD part # S4034 ) as the correct part for the 2.2 liter Chrysler TC engine I could not find anything listed on the Rock Auto site Jim Bird
  19. Thanks Marty but I just needed to adjust the tension on the driver side belt because it was not retracting. However I do need the lower half of a timing belt cover for a 16 valve engine ( which you indicated you had when you replied to my post a couple of weeks ago ) and also a back up light switch for the Getrag transmission. I will call you this week with an order. To Reaper--Your memory is pretty damn good. The set up is exactly as you described and as you said the key is to remove the interior trim piece. Thanks to all for the help Jim Bird
  20. Thanks Reaper I figured there had to be one additional fastener at the front. Glad I did not force it as I would have made a mess of things. Your description makes things much clearer. Will let you know how I make out
  21. Can anyone explain how to remove the triangular shaped (body colored) cover that sits directly above the upper seat belt fastener and allows access to the seat belt retractor down at the floor level?? The TC Service Manual shows two finger-like protrusions on the inside of the cover which slide into fixed slots on the body. I have lifted the rear of the cover enough to free these but the front part of the cover does not come free. There seems to be another fastener under the front of the cover which I cannot see. I do not want to pry this up without knowing how it is fastened down. SUGESTIONS???
  22. I need to replace the bottom half of the timing belt cover on my 1990 16 valve TC. One of the plastic fastening tabs on the cover broke allowing it to contact one of the accessory belts which basically cut the cover into two pieces. Does anyone have a source for this part? Is it the same as the bottom half of the cover for the 8 valve engine?
  23. I had a situation where I had an erratic tachometer and a non functioning voltmeter. The problem was in the printed circuit board in the dash. Two of the printed circuits had breaks in them. Took the PCB into the local computer repair shop. They soldered the breaks and problem solved.
  24. I plan to convert the AC on my 1990 16 valve from R12 to 134a. There is no R12 left in the system. There seems to be to be a number of different opinions on how best to do this. Do I need to replace the compressor and/or the accumulator? Would appreciate help from others who have already been down this road
  25. As above the correct seal is SKF #13750