bodayguy

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Everything posted by bodayguy

  1. I used Queen City Plating in Mukilteo WA to rechrome a transmission plate for my 64. But they told me they don't do bumpers anymore because of the labor (the shop is just one guy I think now).
  2. I'm pretty forgiving, but even I think this is a Frankenstein rebuild. Strange choices.
  3. Here in Washington state our car tabs are ridiculous (just got the bill for this year on my 2016 Miata - $350!). However, for an old car, it's great. I paid sales tax when I bought it and registration was probably $100, and I never have to register it again or get it inspected. My Rivi still has the original WA plates, which I love. For new cars here, we get bit in the a$$, but old cars, they are easy!
  4. I've had a Pertronix on my 64 425 for about 2 years. Works really well. Thumbs up.
  5. Thanks Ed, I did scrape off a bunch of paint and found the KW - the letters were probably a half-inch apart but the code was KW558. Too hard to photograph but it's there. Also realize at some point someone had the engine repainted true blue, because I wiped back enough to see the original light blue underneath. Cool! But the vin does not match, now that I photograph!
  6. I did some searching but didn't find the answers yet, so I am posing the question anyhow. Really curious if my car has the original engine in it. There was very little history on the car when I bought it. The # on the outside dash (where the hood lifts) matches the number on the engine where its stamped near the air cleaner/thermostat. It's 7K1088032 by the way. The # on the engine block, the manifolds I guess, is B1196914J, on both sides. The # on the body, upside down near the battery side, is 1364549. Not sure how to decipher this stuff. I am not interested in the trans # really, mainly because I don't want to climb under there. What do you guys think? It's definitely a 425, etc.
  7. This is mine on a 1-inch drop from Coil Springs. Ride quality is excellent. My exhaust hangs down so going any lower would have been a big problem (lowered 1", I can't get the jack under the car without driving on some plywood, and I do have to be very careful on driveways, etc). If I went lower, just speaking for myself, I would do bags so I could lift it when needed. We appear to have twins.
  8. Coil Spring Specialties makes custom springs for Rivis. I have a one-inch drop setup from them. I wanted a stealthy change, not enough to cause crazy driveway issues (but I do have to be careful!) http://coilsprings.com
  9. These go in pretty easily. I only used a small amount of black 3M in the corners and edges. It should fit tight even without much adhesive.
  10. I sold a keyboard/synth on eBay last month. Had 2 bidders take it to $2,000. Guy that won never paid, never even responded. Had to relist it, it sold for $1650. So I lost $350 on that a-hole. Happens all the time, I hear. eBay is not binding. Would not be surprised if this part never sells for that price.
  11. That pic was part of a magazine ad, which I reproduced to make into my car show placard (see below).
  12. Anybody else take a little Memorial Day cruise? Lovely day here.
  13. Here's a couple pics of my console after I replaced the wood veneers, had the shifter bezel rechromed and put LED in the transmission indicator. Big thanks to such great work by Bob Scanlan in Mass. who does the veneers, he's on eBay if anyone needs them too. That's an eBay steering wheel too. I love the original wood wheels but those are to $$$ for me. This is fine for me, I'm not that picky.
  14. I have a Covercraft cover for outside. It is excellent, but one nitpick: No pocket for the side mirror. For inside use, I don't think you would need much.
  15. By the way, if you want to know what's it's like working on one of these old classics: I needed to get the horns working again after I had checked the turn signal connectors behind my (aftermarket) steering wheel. In laziness, I had been working on the wheel without disconnecting the battery (I just unplugged the horns instead). When I reattached everything, no horns. Figured I had blown out the relay in my laziness. So I ordered a new one. Put it on. Checked the steering wheel/horn actuator to be right. NO HORN. wtf. Checked everything again. Checked power from the relay. Frustrated, I reattached the old relay. HORNS WORK. wtf. I can't figure out half the things I fix/break. And the process is usually a combination of both.
  16. There was power on the pin, yeah, I checked it with a meter. I decided to order a new socket from Summit. I'll see if it works with the wire, and then I could junk what's there. I do think the spring area is rotted, yeah, good call.
  17. So my drivers side front parking lamp, the smaller bulb below the turn signal bulb, won't light. The passenger side one works fine. This is the single-post bulb at the bottom, inside the "clam shells" (if it was a 65). The turn-signal bulb is two post, pos and neg. This bulb appears to be pos only. I noticed if I disconnected that one bulb altogether, the turn signal wouldn't go on. I thought there was a bad ground so I wired a second one, but that just blew the fuse. There must be a ground in that single-post bulb??? I don't understand how that fixture works. After trying everything, I reconnected the original wiring and got the turn signal to work again, but that darn bottom bulb still won't go on. I checked it for power, it has power in the wire, and the bulb is OK, and I cleaned out the socket with some sand paper and got all the rust out, pulled the connector pin out some, etc. Still no luck. Anyone have experience with that?
  18. This is my way, too. I try to figure out what's wrong as best I can before I take it to the mechanic, or if I need to take it to him. I also buy the parts myself and have those ready. That saves a little money, too.
  19. I live in a condo and have only a carport, so that limits what I can do myself. If I had a garage, I would certainly do a lot more myself. Sadly, the way real estate $$$ around Seattle, my dreams of having a garage some day are pretty shot. We have a new storage facility in Seattle ("The Shop") that offers indoor parking and access to bays. It's $350 a month. Tempting but not in my budget. I have gotten used to having my mechanic do stuff. But I realize most folks do it differently.
  20. This is really good advice. I bought my 64 about three years ago and I have probably spent $1-2,000 each year fixing who knows what. Some of that is fixing stuff I want to be better, some of it was necessary repairs. I do a bit myself, cosmetic stuff especially, but I'm at the age where I don't particularly want to wrench a lot because I have a job, life, etc. Realize labor rates on an old car can be worse than new cars. It can take longer to diagnose, to find parts, to schedule a time with the mechanic. Just take into account a yearly expense.
  21. This reminds me of when I mentioned to an inlaw shortly after buying my 64 that it has a "few rattles and squeaks, rides OK." He says - "hey, that's how they were in the 60s too." We get spoiled with how modern cars roll along so smooth and quiet, haha.