bodayguy
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Posts posted by bodayguy
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How did you get the title without paying taxes in 2009?
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It does not include a foot pedal. I don’t have that.
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Sorry. Yes. It looks like 980657 model #.
ADD: Guess I should have googled it (sorry, I be dumb sometimes). That model number does code to a 64!
Anyone want it before I eBay it?
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I know nothing except the guy I bought my 64 from included this in the sale and I have cleaned it up and am going to EBay it or whatever.
Is this for a 64? Does the serial number tell us anything? Hopefully it works, I haven’t tried it, just cleaned it up.
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Coil Spring Specialties + Bilsteins, if you're not worried about $$. Worth it.
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Mine never went into L. Have no idea why and never needed it anyhow so I ignored it.
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I put my 64 on a truck to Columbus and a new owner, Brian. Hopefully he joins the board here. You guys have been great. I do hope years down the line I can get a 65. Beautiful cars!!
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7 hours ago, Paul from PA said:
I often wondered what the fee schedule was for BAT. Now I and others know. Thank you.
Actually I think it's $249 if you haven't listed before but they make it $99 for returning customers. The best part is the buyer pays the 5% commission, not the seller, which makes it a good deal for a seller. The way the bidding works too, the buyer's fee is charged on the credit card the second the auction ends. This means whoever wins is a LOT less likely to flake out and not buy the car (which seems to be a big issue on eBay).
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On 5/14/2020 at 8:03 AM, cjp69 said:
Good luck today Rich, fingers crossed for a happy ending!
No sale on the auction at $18,250, before the 5% buyer's fee. I didn't need to sell it but if it had gotten to at least $20,000, I would have been OK with letting it go. Truth is I had been working on the listing for quite a few months with them, and trying to sort out some details, and had already paid the $99 entry fee, so I figured I might as well see what happens. Happy to keep it!
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23 hours ago, Chimera said:
That's me. We'll see how it goes!
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All done. Overall I am very pleased with how that turned out. It’s not a perfect fit, the sides are just off some, and you end up with a modern plastic textured surface compared to the softer vinyl original, but for the price, it’s a very professional finish.
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In the works on mine. I removed most of the vinyl around the edges. I found the one bottle of glue was enough, although I will be going back to add more under the front lip. Instructions say not to use glue over the entire top because the cap needs to expand in the heat.
One nice thing about having a black interior is the adhesive is black also so you can’t mess it up too easily.
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I ordered a black one yesterday. Looking forward to installing it.
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43 minutes ago, RockinRiviDad said:
BINGO...YES, its a cheapo $150 PVC cover from DashTops. I really enjoy the look & the cost. I only call it cheap because its plastic & costs so much less than having an upholstery shop do it. I could have saved money if I would have covered it myself with vinyl. But I don't have those kind of skills & I had bought this plastic one many moons ago anyway
My suggestions:
if u are looking for show car quality, or u have a rare car or u just have stimulus money burning a hole in your pocket
...then goes to an upholstery shop for your dash cover
if u are on a budget (like me) &/or u are ok with driver quality...then go with a DashTop...(although I haven't really cared to look close enough, but this DashTop cover is so nice I bet some guys show their cars with this cover on them)
good luck...hope this helped. let us know what u get & we LOVE pix (well, at least, I do
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yeah that does help a lot. My big concern with the dash cap is how it looks under the lip because that’s where mine is the worst. It looks like the cap does come around the lip and cover that too? -
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Hey how did this turn out Paul? I'm at the point where either I have my cover done at the upholstery shop or get one of these Dashtop covers.
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My fleet was social distancing today. Doing an oil change on the Riviera tomorrow and getting her (hopefully) set for the warm season.
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Yeah I would make sure the bulb is connecting to the housing properly. I think the ground is actually made partly with the metal housing? Make sure it’s not corroded.
if the rear blinker is working then you know it’s not the switch
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Also the speedometer- you can see in one photo it was sitting at 7 o’clock and now it sits at 6. Is that a problem?!? I did goof it up some too.
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So I was installing new LED bulbs in my dash (look good) and in the process I broke the gas gauge loose. Dammit.
So far as I can tell, I need to re-soder the red wires to the top spots. But overall it seemed to be floating in the gauge pod, yes? Or is there something on the bottom that broke?!? I can’t see anything except there was a really small brass circle that was loose in the pod.
I have no idea how these work.
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Prices are all over the board. I think even your location plays a part. I see prices in the Midwest much more reasonable than what you would see a private seller in California or Washington (where I am) willing to take.
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I get this ALL the time too. I used a little starter spray in the carb this last time and that helped keep it from feeling too ridiculous on the pumps.
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It still costs more to decently restore one than to buy a nice one, so that says to me prices are OK. But I don't see things going up, that's for sure.
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Yeah I thought it looked familiar!
64 just sold on BAT for 13,700.00
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by bodayguy (see edit history)
I actually didn't think it would get to $13k. It was selling at no reserve.
It had rusty bubbles, the interior was ehhhh ... and the engine bay is a mess.
And it's a two-tone paint job that was in need of help.
(But it was numbers matching, so that's a plus)
Considering mine was a no-sale at $18.5 and was WAAYYYYYY nicer (eventually sold private to the high bidder), that $13k was a good price I thought.