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Everything posted by Digby30

  1. A picture of the bracket on the carb should get me started.......I have a feeling that the orientation of the choke lever on the carb I have is different than what is needed for this car. Some of the later versions of this used an automatic (heat activated) choke which may be the easier way to go, and just have a non functional Choke knob on the dash. Thanks for your help!
  2. Hupp36.......do you think I could trouble you to take another picture looking down on the Carb from above so I can get an idea of how the choke cable and bracket are oriented? From the numbers on my carb's tag (839987), it is a Carter W1, but off of a 42-48 Chevy, Kaiser, Plymouth or military application so that may be part of my problem. (Carter 574s for the Chevy vs. 316s that the Hupp is supposed to have) The choke cable bracket I have may be for the Hupp or it may be for the Chevy. Also, for the Choke on this carb to be open, I would have to pull the choke knob out on the dash which doesn't seem right ....i.e. i would think you would pull the choke knob to "choke it" Thanks For any help or any ideas!
  3. Success! I used a piece of rubber to get a better grip on the bezel and off it came......ran a new wire down the steering column and cleaned all the contact surfaces so the horn works great now.
  4. Great! Thanks for the pics. Unfortunately, my trim ring wont budge.....you can't get a good grip on it to apply much torque, and after 80 some years it needs a little persuasion....I'll keep trying this weekend.
  5. Few things I could use some help with on a '36 D618. I need to replace the horn wire that runs down the steering column.....I'm assuming the bezel around the button is threaded on? Any tricks to getting this off? Also, I'm looking for a picture of what the choke cable bracket should look like.... I think I have the correct carb (Carter 316S) Thanks
  6. My 1936 D618 (#10916) I've been working on the interior & wiring, and now have the wheels off to recondition the brakes and rear axle seals.
  7. My '67 Imperial 6 way power seats have a bad actuator coil and I can't find replacements that are functioning or anyplace that can open these up and re-wind the coils. Anyone have a source for having power seat actuator coils rewound? Thanks
  8. Work progressing on the '62 Imperial.....Rust on body is patched, trunk floor replaced and seats are complete....Detailing the frame suspension and hope to have the powertrain in this winter. Getting the old ball joints out was fun...a week's soaking in PB blaster and a 5' black pipe on the 3/4" ratchet did the trick. I've seen B & E bodies with some suspension parts natural and lower control arms gold etc., but my suspension was too rusted to tell what they were originally so I podwercoated the frame and all of the suspension in chassis black.
  9. Digby30

    1967 Imperial Convertible

    I've owned this Imperial since 2004. It spent the mid 70's in Hawaii.....Perfect boat for the big Island!
  10. Its a D618 4dr Touring Sedan SN 10916
  11. After gluing the foam to the ABS plastic with spray adhesive, I drew the pattern on the foam with a straight edge and pen. I used one of those disposable knifes with the snap off blades....I suppose an exacto would work just as well. I made a bunch of test pieces before trying an entire door panel. I'll be making the final panels once the wool material arrives.
  12. Buddy of mine is selling his '74 Buick Riviera. Loaded, GS Stage I runs and drives great. http://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/cto/5462185469.html
  13. I used two layers, one plastic for structure and the second foam for the pattern, so that the heads of the push in Christmas trees wouldn't show through. The original metal clips were staked to the backside of the cardboard panel and couldn't be reused
  14. Front Seat before and after. Really nice work done by Shelby Trim in Sterling Heights, MI Headliner is next as soon as I can afford to have it done!
  15. Working on my Hupp D618 Interior Before and after pictures of the door panels. Using 1/16" ABS plastic from Home Depot and 3/16" vinyl top foam to make the pattern. Getting the right amount of spray adhesive down into the groove it the trick. Too much or too little and the fabric won't stick. So far I've made two test panels that look pretty good....Next up I'll use the expensive wool fabric from SMS auto.
  16. TechShop is a great place to learn skills needed to make castings, do wood working, welding sandblasting and powder coasting, etc.......I'm planning a few projects for my '36 Hupp D618 like door panels, trunk shelf etc, but they have everything required to learn & make casting dies, from laser scanning to CAD software to CNC mills etc. to replicate hard to find mechanical parts. http://www.techshop.ws/
  17. Looking for Gabriel Rotary Shocks for a 1934 Hupmobile J421, 1935 D518, 1936 618 to replace a set lost by the USPS when sent back from the rebuild shop. Bolt spacing is ~4", arm length ~8", body diameter where is passes through Frame ~21/2".
  18. From looking at the online Imperial Club information for 60-'63 Imperials and LeBaron, this fabric and color were not offered. I haven't looked too much further to see if it was used in a New Yorker etc., and SMS was confident it is used in '62 Cadillac Town Sedan and they had reproduction fabric in several colors. Here is a close up of the original back Seat. The sun has faded the cloth to an off white, but underneath is is more of a yellow gold color. Also the headliner uses the same material as the seats rather than the perforated, stretchy material, which will make that job a bit harder to do! Here is a '62 Cadillac Sedan from Ebay with the same cloth inserts: Here is my Imperial rear seat back recovered with the Fabric from SMS: All in all I wish I had stumbled into this car before it was left outside to go to pot!....I would have preferred to have kept it all original and just driven it.
  19. The first thing I did was pull the rear seat, but no such luck, and nothing has turned up as the rear seat upholstery was worked on.....Maybe I'll be lucky when they work on the front!
  20. I found this Imperial sunk up to its frame in mud in Redford, MI back in 2006. It had sat outside uncovered for 6 years and was not running, (later found 2 stuck valves and 5 bent push rods!) some rust in the usual places and moldy interior. I was afraid someone would buy it for the motor and trans and scrap the rest of it, so of course I had to drag it home! My interest was piqued by the yellow interior which I knew was not a factory option. Looking at the build tag on the fire wall, the trim code is 999 which is for special order. Both rear doors were also sporting Cadillac emblems, stuck on to cover what may be holes for monogram plaques or something similar. SMS Auto Fabrics Identified the cloth insert material as matching a '62 Cadillac The Walter P. Chrysler Museum in Auburn Hills was able to pull the IBM Card and said that it was purchased in Baltimore MD at Triangle Chrysler Plymouth Originally I planned on getting it running, and cleaning up the paint and interior and driving it, but the interior was too far gone and smelled really bad! also the 413 had 2 stuck valves and a bunch of bent push rods. Having to rebuild the motor, and finding that the correct interior material was available, I decided to go forward with a restoration of the body and interior.......work is started but has been moving at a snails pace. Trunk had to be replaced and the rear quarters had a lot more rust than we originally thought. I'm dying to figure out who bought this car originally...it had to cost a fortune new! Anyone have any suggestion to trace a car's past owners?
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