26-25Buick

Eric The reflectors have a thin coat of silver which is very easy to scratch. I suggest if you really have to, just wash them with a little warm water and soap and gently dry them but don’t rub them. I’d be leaving the cleaning of those to the lucky new owner

Welcome Ejedmo5. What you have is not a set of headlights but actually cowl lights for a Cadillac from 1912 or a little later. A fairly common part that people managed to salvage off of these cars. In fact you’ll find some others on eBay currently. A little hard to tell how complete yours are because on first look they look like someone may have removed the original socket from them to convert it to another light. The brackets are correct for that period Cadillac light. My guess, and it would depend how many scratches and dents are in them and how quickly you want them sold but fair asking is around $250-300 for an average quality pair. Yours having been modified so I suspect they might sit to the bottom end but others may have a different opinion.

I agree keep the nozzle moving and the the pressure down and there shouldn’t be a problem regardless of the media type. And yes there will be some heat generated, the energy from the media hitting the surface has to go somewhere but by moving the nozzle it never gets excessive. High pressure water blasting also heats the surface for exactly the same reason. A couple of other pointers if you’re doing the blasting at home make sure you thoroughly clean all oil & grease off of the car where you’re blasting before you start. Blast cleaning will not remove it but will push it in to the surface gving you poor paint adhesion. Don’t be tempted to recycle your grit to save a few bucks either as it’ll be full of rust and old paint and the last thing you want to do is embed these contaminates back in to the surface you just cleaned. Blast shops can recycle grit as they have the equipment to remove the contaminates. Also if there is any chance there is road salt present be extra vigilant about washing before blasting. Unfortunately even if you buy new media it’s not always clean. We’ve seen batches of “new” garnet contaminated with clay and a Black Beauty substitute with a high salt content. Checking for clay and rubbish is an easy test. Take some media and put it in a pill bottle with some water and give it a shake and see what settles out. The water should be pretty clear after about 5 mins. Try and see what you get.

Bob, As an overseas buyer on eBay, I always look at the ships to information rather than what’s in the title or the description because the seller has to have their settings correct in the listing for the item to allow me to bid on or buy an item. However I’m lucky to have friends in the States that will accept goods on my behalf if the seller won’t post to Australia and there are freight forwarders so there are work arounds but I agree the Global Shipping option by eBay is not a good one. Of course on many occasions our items are purchased from people and businesses rather than eBay listings so this isn’t a consideration. Most of our purchases come via USPS and the minimum postage for even the smallest parcel is about USD45 which for us you have to add another 25-30% for the exchange rate. So we have to factor this in when we bid or make an offer. Time wise it’s a 7-10 day wait for air freight to a capital city and I would guess even more to a more remote location. I know it is frustrating but I am an advocate of tracking as we have watched items which were mailed to Australia end up in Austria, only to be returned to sender.

Steve It’s not mine and its been around for awhile so you’ve probably seen it already www.ebay.com/itm/173523570028

I agree the resistor is not there as a ballast resistor. If it’s the one I think it is it is on low voltage side of the coil to protect the windings of the coil if the ignition is left on without the car running. The wire heats up and the resistance increases and protects the coil by lowering the current. So yes it will get hot if the car isn’t running. Another quick thing to try is swap out the condenser for a new one from NAPA.

John, the pipe on mine is copper and the fittings to the heads are brass. Are you looking for a complete outlet pipe or the brass fittings used at the heads?

This isn’t mine and I have no connections with the seller but this came through as a new listing overnight on our equivalent to craigslist. If anyone is looking for a 1917-20 steering wheel. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/stawell/auto-body-parts/buick-steering-wheel/1192819637 of course the quoted price is in AUD. If somebody does purchase it PM me as I might be able to help you with the shipping.

Try the tapping process. It worked for me http://forums.aaca.org/topic/81984-boyce-motometer-repair/#comment-346812

I think whether you’re open to offers, regardless of where it comes from, is really driven by your motivation for selling. Am I selling it to clear out my shed, as a business to make a profit, etc. but hopefully no matter what your motivation, in the end it will get another car back on the road. Ultimately, as I’m sure others will be quick to point out, something is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it, regardless of what we think it is worth and a “no sale” is a pretty good indicator that there is something wrong. It could be price, description or just not the right people looking. You need to decide but perhaps that low ball offer is not that bad or perhaps no one actually needs that widget we can’t live without. Unfortunately you don’t have to look far to find an earlier conversation here about the way things are priced is affecting the interest in the hobby, be it parts or cars and I think there is a direct link to the “fair” price concept here and rarity of some parts being caused by stockpiling for that rainy day. However regardless of the sale method as the seller you are in control of when you sell and I don’t think making an offer is a bad thing especially if accompanied with an explanation for the amount offered.

Not mine but this maybe of interest to someone https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bendigo/engine-engine-parts-transmission/buick-starter-gen/1186199617

If you are going to use electrolysis it is not a set and forget process and you do need to make sure you connect the battery charger up around the right way because in essence you're cleaning by creating a corrosion cell. In this case the Black (negative) wire must go to the block. Get it the wrong way round and you'll corrode the block. You need a good size drum as the anodes that you hang in the drum can not be close to the block. The washing soda I suspect helps to strip any minor grease and grease that may be protecting the surface but will also accelerate the electrolysis as it will lower the resistance of the water and allow more current to pass to speed up the cleaning. A couple precaution here this process can and will produce hydrogen so don't put a non venting lid on the drum and keep it away from anything that could ignite the hydrogen. Secondly don't be tempted to add salt to the water as this will produce chlorine gas, which is even more nasty to deal with.

Terry, Basically it’s a standard set of formulas for colours that allows all paint companies to mix you the same colour, regardless of where in the world you ask for it. While the RAL system orginated in Germany there is also an American equivalent from ASTM and the Australian Standards Association has yet an other one. They all represent the same colour but each standard uses its own numbering system.

I came across a similar scam on the Australian eBay site last week. The seller had multiple cars of all different eras listed all in the $7-8k range, which was well under their market value. I used the report a suspected scammer button on one on the listings and by that night all the sellers listings had been taken off and haven't reappeared. So do your friends in the hobby a favour and report the scams to the people who can do something about it & don't sit there feeling how lucky you were to dodge the bullet. It could be you next time.

Don, You could try Snyder’s Antique Auto Parts. They have a few different lens types including a matching lens for the 26 Standard, so you might get lucky. Of course I don’t know any of the dimensions or exactly what the correct lens looks like for your car so I may be heading you in completely the wrong direction

Are you running an electric fuel pump or the original vacuum tank? An electric fuel can also cause symptoms similar to a poorly seated float needle if the pressure is not properly regulated.

Hi Michael, Can you clarify which seat you're after as the low speed seat screws in (I thought) and the high speed seat screws on to a brass tube that is integral with the carb body, assuming it's the Marvel updraft. As the high speed needle never actually sits in the seat that may not be the one your after. Or do you mean the float valve seat which is also a screw in? As mentioned The Carb Shop can help you with the gaskets and low speed and float screw in seats but not the high speed one, or they couldn't when I was overhauling my carb. I did mine a few years ago and I'm very happy with the results. The high speed is the tricky one though as you can also get cracks in the brass tube as well as damage to the seat. By the way if you search the forum you should be able to find a thread where people talk about soldering and redrilling the hole of the high speed seat. It's probably frowned upon but this worked well for me so far (touch wood) as someone had screwed the needle in too far and reamed out the seat on mine. This extra information or a photo of what you are after should help others with your search.

Terry brings up a good point here, how does the addition of an anti-freeze play in to this equation? It’s not all good news on the chloride stress corrosion cracking front as I’m afraid a quick look at the safety datasheet for this product actually shows you’re adding chlorides with your antifreeze to about the same tune as typical domestic tap water. http://www.luisa.com.gt/sites/default/files/zerex_original_green.pdf Not to put you all to sleep with the science, the problem isn’t where the corrosion inhibitors and chlorides stay in solution but where the coolant can evaporate and leave the chlorides behind to accumulate on the shaft, for example in the pump gland packing nut after that fun day out. By the way there is no way of predicting when and if these materials will crack in service hence why they only talk in terms of susceptibility and some grades of stainless are more susceptible than others. The literature (API for example) will tell you that running an austenitic stainless steel in a pH of 10 or less, in a temperature greater than 140F (60C) and more than about 10ppm of chlorides you have a high susceptibility of creating cracks. By the way if there is any iron in the solution say from a little corrosion somewhere and it also contaminates the surface of the stainless shaft that just makes it worse. These conditions are exactly what you could have in the water pump hence my warning about stainless. I guess the message I’m trying to get across with my post is if you do go down the road of swapping to a stainless steel shaft ask plenty of questions of the person supplying you the shaft material as like carbon steels not all machinable stainless steels are created equal or suitable for this service

Hugh, if you want to make it out of stainless you probably want something like SS316L. The L on the end is the important part as it designates it as the low carbon grade of SS316 which makes it suitable for machining. The 316L still has good corrosion and pitting resistance that some of the other free matching grades of SS don’t and plus it should be readily available in bar stock. I would not recommend using 304 or 303 as these materials, while common and cheaper, are more likely to crack in the presence of chlorides that might be in your water and are more susceptible to pitting corrosion than 316. While 304/303 have many other uses a shaft for a water pump probably isn’t a good use for this metallurgy. Having said this I’m not a proponent for the stainless shaft of any grade in this application and I’d rather use carbon steel although you’ll probably find plently of people out there who have converted the shafts to the harder SS materials without an issue.

Spinneyhill, I think what’s preventing a major issue here is the anode to cathode ratio. As you say the iron block will be anodic (the anode is where the metal is lost) to the brass plug but because the corrosion is happening over a relatively large area of the block it’s not such an issues. The worse combination you can have is a large anode and a small cathode as then the corrosion will be rapid. The reason that a brass plug once it starts weeping around the edge, failure is not far behind. Then there is also the conductivity of the coolant which affects the area that the brass cathode will influence (attenuation) and on it goes as you have the inhibitors in the coolant, the availability of oxygen, etc.

And interestingly all from the same seller

Peter Do you have any photos of the gauge you could post?

Hi Looking for a few parts for my 1912 Cadillac Model 30 Tourer. Does anyone have a set of coils or a Hans gas gauge to suit this car?

DaveMc, it certainly looks the same as a 26 Buick Standard 6 coil although the mount at the bottom is different as the coil in the 26 Standard 6 bolts directly to the top of the generator. Could it be off a Buick Master of the same period? Frank, Might be worth posting on prewar Buick forum, someone there will probably recognise it if it is Buick.

Paul, There are a number of remedies out there but if they’re really loose then remaking is about the only solution. They can be kept tight with 50:50 turps and linseed oil. Wheels that are painted or varnished will dry a little more as these finishes tend to breathe so in really dry climates (natural or artificially created) this can be problematic.