26-25Buick

The priming cups also need to minimise leakage during the compression stroke. Would the Loctite be able to do this task?

Is it a left hand drive or right hand drive car? I think you’ll find they’re different as the right hand drive cars have the rod running behind the motor to the the right hand side to join the pedal.

I’m running a 1927 distributor in my 1926 Buick Standard. As Hidden Hunter said the 1927 distributor is steel bodied and not pot metal like the 1926 ones. The other advantage is the points for the 1927 are more readily available.

That’s correct Larry, it’s part of suburban Sydney, Australia. This gentleman has listed quite a few parts for early Buicks over the years but this was something I hadn’t seen elsewhere, so I thought it might be of interest to the group.

Not mine but may be of interest to someone here https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/matraville/other-parts-accessories/1912-to-1918-buick-engine-valve-remover/1250440060

Mark, it would depend a lot on their history as the early coils were air cooled rather than sitting in an oil bath. As you know this allowed corrosion and moisture in and caused them to short out or the windings to breakdown. Having said that I’m running the original coil in my 26 Buick without a problem and have a couple of 1912 Cadillac coils that test perfectly, in terms of resistance so I expect them to work, once I get the car restored. So the good ones are out there and I’d follow Bloo’s advise and swap back to original. To be honest I’ve had far more trouble with condensers than coils.

Would depend on the rim offset and whether that brought it too close to other parts under the car. If the extra 1/2” was outboard probably ok but inboard and you may risk snagging the suspension when on full steering lock or perhaps placing yourself too close to the brake lines.

Yes common in Australia too. Made worse by the people having stopped 3 car lengths back inching forward while the light is red. I wonder if it’s just coincidence that there is so many autos on the road now and fewer people who have driven stick. I’m pretty sure you’d be cured of the habit pretty quickly if it meant slipping the clutch each time.

I think nickelroadster is spot on. This is probably an old acrylic or enamel that’s just continued to harden over time and there has been an adhesion failure at the primer. Unfortunately a more definitive answer will be hard as paint failures can be hard to diagnose unless you’re standing in front of them. I’ll add another cause though as it could equally be the primer had gone past the overcoat window before the top coat was applied and there wasn’t a good bond. Over the years the top coat got harder and stress in the paint pulled it away. Given the cracks in the paint it has been stressed at some point through the years by its curing. The unusual patterns in the first 2 photos where the top coats are missing does look like there maybe a little grey primer remaining on the surface though, which is good thing in terms of preservation as there is still some paint remaining. To save yourself problems and time later I would also not recommend using an oil or a wax to protect it. Depending on how much you plan to use the car and where you have to store it, the do nothing option may be the best approach here. The corrosion rate should be low unless you plan to drive on salted roads, live next door to a surf beach or plan to store the car outside in the rain or snow. So enjoy it for the next few years and plan to paint it again sooner rather than later.

I can vouch for Zepher’s solution. When I travel in Russia, another of the AACA geo-blocked locations, using a VPN connection to a server in an unblocked country works perfectly for me. Hemmings website is equally accessible using this method.

Has anyone tried these on a larger displacement engine than the Model A? Is the valve bore large enough to supply fuel for a 6 or 8 cylinder Buick motor? In my case it’s a low pressure delivery system i.e. no electric fuel pump

I’ve used Bob’s on many occasions and always found them quick to dispatch with reasonably priced postage, even overseas. The parts in the catalog for the early Buicks aren’t always available, but wait a few months and they are back in stock again

Thanks Trinidian. I did see this post however I was hoping that someone might have experience with one and was able to comment on whether the bore is correctly sized for the Buick 6ers as most of the ones I found are specifically for a Ford 4 cylinder

For a little added security I was thinking of adding a fuel shutoff valve/solenoid between the vacuum tank and the Marvel carb in our ‘26 so I don’t run the risk of dumping the contents of the vacuum tank through the carb if something goes wrong. My first thought was when you turn the ignition on it also supplies 6V to the solenoid which opens the fuel valve. Or alternatively also put in a separate normally closed push button momentary switch so I can run the carb dry at end of the day. Looking at Snyder’s catalogue they have a similar set up for Model As and Ts but the valve opening seems quite small, perhaps about 1/8” so I’m not confident it will deliver enough fuel for the 6 cylinder in the Buick. Does anyone use a similar set up and have a recommendation on where and what to buy?

We had the same problem with a new float, valve and seat from Classic and Exotic on the 22 Cad where it doesn’t hold pressure and the whole thing floods in fuel. Went back to the original seat and needle but new float. Now it holds pressure from the hand pump on priming and when running but the moment you stop it floods again until you remove the gas cap from the tank and let the pressure go. I thought it was perhaps a design issue with Johnson updraft on the Cad but perhaps not. Any suggestions?

High humidity will slow solvent evaporation which affectively slows the curing but 80% humidity often isn’t the tipping point as most materials will still work at 85% under the right conditions and good air movement. If additional solvent was added to perhaps improve spray ability because it was hot the problem would only be worse. The heat could also be the reason for the checking as the top part of the paint is drying and contracting faster leaving a crack like appearance. The heat can also cause bubbles in the coating called solvent entrapment. Depending on how thick the coating is you maybe able to sand it out but often you can’t. The recommended curing time is at least 7 days however it will seem hard much earlier. Of course you should always measure the temperature and humidity at the place you’re working rather than using the forecast as your site can be significantly different from the forecast.

An IR temp gun is a great tool for getting a quick measurement, I’m not saying this is what happened here but it is a case of measurer beware. These guns can be easily fooled by anything shiny e.g chrome, stainless steel, even high gloss paint and will give an inaccurate reading. Also the further the gun is held from the surface the greater the area the gun averages the temperature over. Up close you get a pinpoint but the further you move away the larger the area being averaged becomes. If measuring the temperature accurately is important you probably want to look at a touch pyrometer or use a thermocouple with your multimeter.

Hugh Ive been changing my oil every 2 years and it comes out looking pretty clean but I’m only doing about 750-1000 miles in that time. Also we’re pretty lucky as we’re unlikely see temperatures fall much below the 50s and nor do we have high humidity to contend with. I suspect oil change interval is more around how you use the car and not time but as others have pointed out oil changes are relatively cheap insurance so I think I’ll just keep changing it.

Ray For me cold the 26 Standard runs around 30 psi but as it warms up this drops to around 20-25 psi. However before I flattened the oil pump bottom plate and replaced the broken pressure relief spring I was lucky to get 10-15psi. This is on a motor with 75,000 original miles without a major rebuild so a fresher engine may do better. My 26 does have the factory pancake oil filter (one year only design) mounted on the firewall still in circuit. While I doubt it does anything other than drop oil pressure I’m reluctant to turn the shut off valve as it’s pot metal and likely to fall apart in my hand

Nash34 - PM me if you still have early Caddy items to sell

Being one of those overseas buyers asked to use Western Union be aware this isn’t always a flawless transaction either and there is considerable risk for the buyer. As we all know once the money is collected that ends any onus on WU, hence why scammers like it. If the goods are never sent the buyer is out of pocket with no way to recover the money. The other issue I’ve had with WU is I went to transfer money to a seller using the WU online site and my bank instantly froze my accounts and sent me a fraud alert as apparently this is a common hack to steal money from accounts. So be warned. I prefer to use PayPal, despite its poor exchange rate, as it does have the option of paying the seller the full amount with the buyer covering the fees for the seller and at least there is at least a little bit of protection

Hi Any parts for 1912 Cadillacs? Thanks Neil

I have seen it done by welding the seat frame in to the new position (not adjustable). Also you might need to move the foot rest in the back if you need to move it too far.

Thanks all for the advice. It’s really valuable to a first timer. Unfortunately I have to work Thursday and Friday in Tx so they aren’t an option for me this year but I’ll keep this in mind for next time. Do you think it is still worth the side trip?

I’m a first time visitor to Chickasha. The plan is to arrive mid-morning Saturday. Looking for parts for my 1912 Cadillac project.