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Posts posted by paul2748
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Sal Cicala rebuilds teapots. Did a good job on a friends. 586-612-1650 Michigan
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Hill's restorations (OHIO) is another possible source
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Get a multimeter and see how many volts the generator is giving out at 1500 to 2000 rpm. If less that 13.5 volts, then either the generator or regulator is bad. Shouldn't need to polarize if nothing has been replaced.
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I think the Pertronix instructions say you don't use the resistor with their coil. I got the # 2, and tht is what my instruction say. Check the instructions.
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There is a collar on the steering column that is turned to loosen to change position then tightened .
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The right side for a Tbird is supposed to be the same as a sedan.
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On 2/22/2020 at 10:50 PM, JFranklin said:
But did you let it stay for months in the gas tank? That is where it becomes troublesome as it picks up water and goes rancid. It is also more corrosive than real gasoline.Or get a car that doesn't need gas!
Yes - let it sit from November to April, no problems. Didn't use any crap like Sta-bil either. Only thing I do is start it up once a month and run it up to operating temp.
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I've used 10 % for many, many years. No problems at all.
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Besides what was mentioned above, I carry a spare master cylinder and water pump on a long trip. These usually are not readily available at a local parts store.
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If you are not familiar with automobile front ends, I would suggest you take it to a front end shop that has some one who is familiar with the 50's front ends and have them check the various components for any excessive "play". Could be the steering box or any other component.
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The passenger side manifolds for the later years has a hole in the manifold for the auto choke
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I would hope that after 7 years he got it fixed.
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Check all the sockets for rust or corrosion. Also check the mounting for the various lights to make sure the grounds are good. The parking lights and the rear lights are self grounded (no separate ground).
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That cable goes to the window washer. When the washers are activated, the wipers work.
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Change the flex hoses if they have been on the car a long time. They can break down internally and impede the brake fluid.
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You should make a list of what you have and post it. Saves a lot of questions
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I have the following extra parts for sale. Plus shipping. I have pics for everything so contact me at pts1231at verizon dot com
55-57 TBird parts
Outside door handle with push button. Nice driver quality 13.00
56-57 Coil Bracket very good condition 18.00
56 Rear exhaust pipe hangers-right and left good condition, used part #'s 8279 & 8278 15.00
55-56 Front bumper irons-inner, left and right part #'s 17766A and 17767A NEW repros 50.00 pair
Conv. Top/swing bar sleeves-part #s 51374A NEW- two pieces 7.00 pair
55-56 left door shell that is good for parts or restoring. Has had some work done on it 25.00
56-57 Chrome outer steering tube-minor surface rust on steering box end-very good driver quality, easily chromed for a concours Bird 150.00 -
I'm not familiar with a 62, but that looks like one of the trans cooling lines. Did you forget to undo it when pulling the trans?
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I have four head gaskets (of course never used) Fel Pro 799 PT. 17.00 each, 30.00 a pair. Take them all for 55.00. plus shipping
From Midland Park NJ. Were a part of two engine kits. Pic available email or PM me -
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The first thing I would do is see if there is a local TBird club. Join it. Get the benefit of their experience with early Birds. Ask one of the more knowledgeable members to accompany you for a through inspection (bottom especially) to check out the condition of the car. Frame and body conditions are the most expensive to fix. Mechanical issues less so.
It has been my experience with older cars that they can run rougher when cold ( MY 56 does) .
Joe - do you live in New Jersey? There is a great club in north Jersey, the New Jersey Open Road Thunderbird Club (NJORTC). Lots of real TBird guys (I am one of them)
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The generator is all black. The hood rod latch assembly is zinc cadium plated. The bottom of the air cleaner is argent as is the cork. The oil pan was engine color. The trans bell, if an automatic, was natural cast. I believe that the standard shift bell housing was painted engine color.
Throttle linkage on manifold was natural steel but the throttle rods 9727 and 9747 are cadium zinc. Except for O/D cars which had an aluminum center piece
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TBird and YBlock Parts for Sale
in Ford Thunderbird
Posted · Edited by paul2748 (see edit history)
55-57 TBird parts
55-56 Front bumper irons-inner, left and right part #'s 17766A and 17767A NEW repros 50.00 pair
Conv. Top/swing bar sleeves-part #s 51374A NEW- two pieces 7.00 pair
55-56 left door shell that is good for parts or restoring. Has had some work done on it 25.00
56-57 Chrome outer steering tube-minor surface rust on steering box end-very good driver quality, easily chromed for a concours Bird 150.00
55-56 Exhaust Clamps Part # 5270 New (2) 10.00 PR
55-56 Speedo Dash Frame Good used condition 15.00
55-57 Front Engine Mount. Very good condition 80.00
55-57 Valley Cover - Very good condition 45.00
55-57 Draft Tube. Very good condition 30.00
55-56 3 Blade fan not chrome. Very good condition 20.00
4 Blade fan very good condition 20.00
Water Pump Spacer very good condition 15.00
Y-Block Parts (272-292-312)
55-56 Oil Filter Canister - Very good condition 8.00
57 Cylinder "G" heads (2) Appears to be uncut Non posted 275.00 pair
Valve Seals - original type (enough for two engines ) 10.00
54-56 Oil Filters Canister type with gaskets 8.00 for 2
Engine Fan 4 blade. Fits all years 20.00
55-56 Steady rest (will fit 54) very good condition 40.00
Valve Covers Good condition, no rust or dents 35.00 pair
Gaskets for side mounted draft tube. 2 for 6.00 (Shipping included)
57 Sedan Exhaust manifold, left side , good studs, no cracks
Pictures available for all parts. Plus shipping. email me - p t s one two three one at verizon dot net Pick up only on door shell