Pat Curran

My 64 would bounce and make noise, particularly when it was cold. I was able to make it better with lubricant but not completely cure it. Much of the speedometer can be serviced without taking the dash completely apart. The cruise/speed minder knob must be removed first. Just loosen the allen nut and pull off. There is a tiny fabric washer that is just behind the knob which prevents dust from getting behind the face plate although most of these have disintegrated with age. Remove the allen nut that holds the face plate on. This is located on the bottom of the chrome ring. The face plate is also held in place with metal spring clips but will pull off with no problem. The speedometer and cruise/speed minder needle will pull straight off. Pull them by the base to avoid bending the needles. You can then remove the face of the speedometer and have access to a portion of the mechanism. If you elect to pull the entire speedometer, don't forget to disconnect the cable as well as the trip odometer cable.

No one is reproducing it so your only option is finding used replacements. These are very difficult to remove without causing damage as they were glued on at the factory.

Ed, I had the 4 notes on my 64 and I can really relate to the issue you describe!! The other issue is that you see rust under the hood where it sits over the battery due to corrosion on the battery terminals coming in contact with the hood. Certainly not a lot of clearance on this design.

Ed and Darren, the round seal was painted at the factory but as was stated, the paint on this item does not hold up as well as those on the rest of the valve covers. I believe this was a knock out so that the oil breather/filler cap could be re-located for different applications. The oil breather has been in different locations throughout the life of the nailhead and it was probably cheaper to use a seal instead of re-tooling for a new valve cover. I have seen some with 2 breathers on the same side but they did not come from the factory that way.

Check with Steele Rubber Products. They may have what you are looking for.

I have had luck taking the color code to an auto body/paint supply store that still has reference charts that go back far enough. They have made it up in quart cans and spray cans and have been a good match.

The car is now posted on Mecum's web site. Click on Anaheim and then click on Saturday.

Thanks for the kind words gents. It was nice when I bought it but I took it to the next level. I have owned 5 first generation Rivs and I have always found some rust somewhere, but not this car. When I took the moldings off the back window it was rust free and had all original factory metal. Usually the lower corners go on these cars. The factory pinch welds were still present where the rockers wrap into the rear lower wheel wells. These usually get smoothed over during a restoration as they probably look nicer this way but these were left alone. Whoever buys the car is getting a correct, solid example.

Go with the decal as it gives you bragging rights. I always liked the names that were given to engines back in the day. When I bought my 64 in 1972, I was a senior in high school. That big air cleaner hid the engine so I took it off completely. The Carter AFB looked good on top of the nailhead and the sound it made at full throttle was the best. Trouble is, one night I put my foot into it and the engine died. I pulled over to find the carb sucked in some insulation from under the hood! I then went with a set up like you have only it was chrome. The things you do when you are a teenager! Either way, I was hooked on Rivs ever since.

I received a note from the owner of my former 1965 that it will be at the Mecum Auction in Anaheim on 11/14. It will be Lot S4. Matt Harwood also sold this car after my ownership and has posted pictures of it on this blog in the past. It is a beautiful car and never had any rust work at all. If anyone is inclined to bid on it and wants to know the history of it from new to my ownership, send me a PM and a phone number and I will be happy to provide you details. I sold it around 2010 but I have been told it has been maintained in the same condition although I have not personally looked at it.

Agreed Tom. The car needed some freshening in a few areas that you mentioned but overall, you couldn't restore one to the same level for what the car sold for.

I don't know about 1964, but in 1966 it became a dealer installed option.

Keep in mind that the 68 and 69 are slightly different. The 69 has the 2 vertical dividing bars where the 68 does not. They will fit though.

I think you are on to something!

I missed it too! My reference was for 64 and 65. Sorry!

The sail panel lights are controlled by turning the headlight switch in addition to automatically illuminating when the doors are opened. As you stated, usually the problem is with the door jamb switch. I had an issue with my 65 and found a wire under the dash that had worn its coating off by rubbing against a piece of metal over the years. I fixed this and they were fine after that. You could have a bad connection at any junction point but I would be suspect of the issue with the bad switch in the passenger door.

I have been watching it as well and it is one of the nicest I have seen on ebay in a long time. I am not a big fan of red line tires but they look good on this car. I'm surprised the price has not gone higher. I have seen similar condition non-GS 65's sell in the very low $30K range so if it doesn't go any higher, it looks like a good deal for the buyer. That engine compartment is to die for. The level of detail is outstanding!

First gens are all the same. Once the screws are out, push up and forward until you can get your fingers in then slide it out. Sometimes they can be difficult but once out, all the fuses are visible.

I know they were optional in 1969 as well. Not sure why but the shop manual indicates that the front end alignment settings are different for a radial tire versus a bias ply.

If you take the rear arm rest out and remove the access panel for the window mechanism, you should be able to see where the bondo oozed through the holes.

My friend is now the third owner and a few tweaks have been done since Barris created it. It has been several colors over the years and had side pipes on it for a period of time. A ton of documentation came with the car which will help with the research. He mentioned that there is no weather stripping around the doors but they open and close fine. The horn bar is missing on the wood wheel but no surprise there. It has a ST 400 transmission, not a Dynaflow. He built the model kit when he was a kid never dreaming that he would ever own the real car.

He is a member of the ROA and has a modified 64. He plans to write an article for the Riview once the dust settles. I will start planting the seeds to have him consider the next meet.

A very good friend of mine bought this car on Saturday at the Draggone auction in CT. He already has the car in his garage and is assessing its needs. The car runs great though and he is very happy with his purchase.

I have seen ads for steering wheel repairs listed in Hemmings Motor News. Look in the "Services Offered" section and you can find one.

Winston, I sold the car I am referencing back in the late 80"s. My recollection is that it was darker but now you have me second guessing myself! In an effort to avoid bad advice, I would like to withdraw the reference to the dark green interior. It is also possible that someone changed it before my ownership as well. The car was verde green originally but was painted white at some point in its life before I got it. It also had a 425 out of a 64 in it as well so who knows? The others that I mentioned I am sure of. Thanks!