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About Smile

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  • Birthday 06/22/1955

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  1. Thanks for posting the picture. It would be good to know the engine number, which was stamped on the block beside the distributer. There should also be a number on the plate on the cam cover, and while they should match, after all these years of swapping about they usually don't. If the manifold is original, the motor looks like it was made some time between Jan - April 1929, so the number would be between 30001 and 31000.
  2. Handles up? Good to know - many thanks Stutz16 The inside handles on my car are in good shape, but thank you again.
  3. Thank you for your reply, and thank you more for your advice about the problems derived from the ever-swelling pot metal. The original upholstery from my car was tossed in 1947 when the then-owner put in a new interior. Tearing original stuff is, sadly, not a concern. The handle on my car does not move in both directions. The strip of metal that runs from the locking mechanism to the part of the handle inside the door can be fitted to the top or the bottom of the handle. If fitted to the top part then a push down will open the door. If fitted to the bottom, then a pull up will open the door. Which way did the factory have it? Again, this is not a big issue, nothing hangs on it, so I'm half-apologizing for even bringing it up. I should have explained that the above photo is from the net, it is not of my car.
  4. Should the driver's and the passenger's door handles be pulled up to open the door, or should they be pushed down? The strap from the mechanism to the handle can be fitted so that either direction works well. The car came with a 'down' pull, but it has been taken apart a few times so that is not a definite guide. Having an 'up' pull looks a bit safer to me as the cockpit is quite small and one doesn't wants the door to be opened with an elbow or an overcoat. . I don't know if LeBaron even had a standard direction. This isn't the most important thing in the world, but advice would be much appreciated.
  5. Nope! It was John's engine and my (your-ex) blower. George & Co. did a good job, everything ran beautifully. I really enjoyed your web pages on superchargers - and learned a lot. Thanks! An interesting side note: George ended up making a CV coupling between the motor and blower because the crank must be perfectly centred for the two units to work. It does a great job of getting around age, re-Babbitting and chassis flex. Here it is whirring around.
  6. Christian, I just saw your post today - wonderful to hear from you. I've PM-ed you and hope it gets through. Fascinating! Thank you so much for posting. I would email you but I don't have an address. Cheers, Mark
  7. Smile

    1928 chassis?

    You got what you paid for - a 1928 short chassis Stutz. There is a turbocharged 1928 4 seater boattail out there. It has chassis number 88233, which is not too far from yours. Needless to say, the turbocharger is a recent addition.
  8. Not sure it is for a Stutz at all. It looks like it is for a 6 cylinder motor that has the inlet and exhaust on the same side. That would rule out the Blackhawk 8s and 6s as well as the Stutz 8s. How about a Chrysler?
  9. It is a bit hard to read: BB-C8-A?5?? That is indeed a 1928 car, and a big one at that. It was bodied with a '8C' which was the code for a 7 place sedan or limousine. That body style was built by Robbins and sold for $3,995.00. The finished car weighed in at 5,159 Lb, so it was the heaviest thing Stutz sold that year. Robbins, by the way, pretty much got out of the car body business by the end of '28. They were basically a joinery company, so Robbins re-deployed the workforce's existing skills and went into radio cabinet production. The serial number is a bit hard to read after the 'C8'. The letter 'A' indicates that the car's chassis number should start with a '7', which is correct for the 1928 long-wheelbase 145 inch chassis that wore this limousine body. The next letter looks like an up-side-down 'C' but is probably a 'D' which is code for a '1'. Next up is a '5' After that is a ? - It is a round looking number, so either an '8', or '0'. It can't be a '3' because the font used had a '3' with a flat top. The final stamping is again a letter. It looks like either a 'B' or a 'H', with the latter being the front runner to my eyes. The 'B' indicated '9' while 'H' is code for '5'. This then gives us four permutations: ID plate = chassis number BB-C8-AD50H = 71505 BB-C8-AD58H = 71585 OR BB-C8-AD50B = 71509 BB-C8-AD58B = 71589 The answer should lie behind the rear right bumper, stamped on the chassis. That's where you should find the matching number to one of the above. Please, if you can, post a picture of the car. It would be interesting to see.
  10. Thanks for adding the photograph of the VIN plate. Yup! That's M8-46-CY82C, not M8-46-CV820.
  11. I'll have a go: M8-46-CV820: M8 is a 1929 designation 46 was the code for a standard Cabriolet Coup body which went on the longer 145 inch chassis. This style of car cost $3,995 new. CV820 ... hmm. This isn't quite right. Stutz used the chassis number with a couple of digits coded into letters. There was no letter 'V', in the replacement code, but there was a 'W' and a 'Y' It can't be a 'W' because 'W' = 6 and less than 6,000 145 inch frame Stutz cars were made in 1929, so it is definitely a 'Y', which = '0'. The last stamping should also be a letter, not a number, so the '0' is probably a 'D' or a badly stamped 'C' In all probability 'CV820' is actually 'CY82D' or 'CY82C'. This would give it frame number 40821 or 40824 The first numeral, the '4' was only assigned to 145 inch frames, so that matches with the body type. Interestingly enough, chassis number 40894 - which is a few cars away - still exists. It has a Weymann body.
  12. Glad I'm sane! Mind you, it was forced sanity .The wrong oil had chewed lumps out of the crown wheel that was in the car.
  13. Deal done, but thank you for replying. On the lighter side of things, the owner called the unit his alternative generator, and wanted to keep it should the one in his car fail (the car has not rolled for quite some time, so the chance of electrical failure during a drive is probably remote). Some part of my dyslexic brain kept wondering if an alternative-generator was a long word for an alternator...... Truth to be told, he was a delight to deal with, knew a great deal, and is a true enthusiast. It was kind of him to sell the part to me. Thanks again, Mark
  14. Thank you K80896, Kmstrade and Edinmass for the help in sorting out a price. Thank you also Edinmass for thinking of a potential alternate source for a generator if I was stuck. As luck would have it, following your inputs the vendor and I have agreed on a price. Now we only have to rebuild the car around the generator and the restoration will be done! Thanks again, Mark
  15. Thank you! Your help is much appreciated. If anyone else has some experience, please let me know. The unit that came with my car had VW internals, a welded up case, and can't turn the water pump.