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  1. The book, The Splendid Stutz will tell you a great deal about the cars. It is for sale through the Club and is well worth the price. The 1927/'28 2 passenger speedster description sort-of covers a few different body types. Some people call the Boattail Speedster just a 'speedster', whereas the catalogue refers to other body types as a 'speedster'. All were built on the short 131 inch chassis, if memory serves me. The chassis length changed in 1929 to 134.5 inches, which did not fit the older bodies. Good luck.
  2. I'll forget about running with George and the Texas boys. More boost, nitrous oxide, trick fuel and soft compound tires would not keep me on the same lap. The car will be wearing its road gear. Just two spare tires and their goosenecks weigh over 150 lbs. By the time the bumpers, lights and other gubbins are added, the car should weigh 4,868 lbs dry. Throw in fuel, oil, and a picnic hamper, and the pace car, piloted by Goofy, would be lapping me.
  3. Where did the carb come from? Same source as the con rods, and thank you again George. 4 to 4.5 lbs., I believe. Thanks for saying the motor looks well. The car ran when I got it, but an inspection showed one con rod was just hand tight, and the generator casing was hollow. The crank was good, thank heavens. The top half of its current inlet manifold came from New Zealand, the bottom half from John (Stutz16 on this site) who had a stand at Hershey. The generator was from a collector about twenty miles from here. John also sorted me out with inlet and exhaust valves, and an int
  4. My motor is now finished. It has titanium rods (thank you George). The blower is pretty low pressure, but I don't want to take any risks with old metal. The round chrome thing at the back of the cam cover is a RPM pick-up from the camshaft. The car had a rev counter back in the day. Good luck with your engine rebuild.
  5. Thank you everyone for responding, and thank you even more for the quality of your answers. Hard to beat this site, and the deep knowledge of the contributors. Cheers, Mark
  6. I can't thank you enough, that is just what I needed to learn. Cheers, Mark
  7. PM sent. Cheers, Mark
  8. Thank you! Cheers, Mark
  9. By any chance would anyone know what sort of colors were woven into M8 Stutz wire insulation? What color went where? The wiring diagram is mute on the subject. With age original insulation coverings have now darkened, but they were quite light when first varnished I guess. This is rare trivia indeed, but any nod in the right direction would be much appreciated.
  10. Thank you everyone - a great help. Mark
  11. Thank you both. I'll contact Robert J. and ask what he has. In the meantime, if the exact stuff isn't known, then it is hard to go wrong! Mark
  12. Does anyone know what sort of material Stutz used between the fenders and the body of its 1929 Torpedo Speedsters? The same material was used on the 1927/1928 Boattail cars? Some pictures show that the stuff is shiny rather than flat. Thanks, Mark
  13. Thanks for posting the picture. It would be good to know the engine number, which was stamped on the block beside the distributer. There should also be a number on the plate on the cam cover, and while they should match, after all these years of swapping about they usually don't. If the manifold is original, the motor looks like it was made some time between Jan - April 1929, so the number would be between 30001 and 31000.
  14. Handles up? Good to know - many thanks Stutz16 The inside handles on my car are in good shape, but thank you again.
  15. Thank you for your reply, and thank you more for your advice about the problems derived from the ever-swelling pot metal. The original upholstery from my car was tossed in 1947 when the then-owner put in a new interior. Tearing original stuff is, sadly, not a concern. The handle on my car does not move in both directions. The strip of metal that runs from the locking mechanism to the part of the handle inside the door can be fitted to the top or the bottom of the handle. If fitted to the top part then a push down will open the door. If fitted to the bottom, then a pull up wi
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