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Smile

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  1. John is, of course spot-on. Below is an August 1929 newspaper clipping.
  2. Smile

    Tires for a 1929 M8?

    Here are two companies that supply inner tubes. https://www.blockleytyre.com/category/inner-tubes https://raceandrallytubes.com/classico-premier-vintage-road-tubes/ Thanks again. Mk.
  3. Smile

    Tires for a 1929 M8?

    Thank you all for your replies, much appreciated. I'll have a think. In the meantime if I find a supplier of inner tubes I'll post their name here. Thank you for recommending the Firestones, white or all black. That Stutz does look very sharp, but I think I'll stick with black. Mind you, the white wall tire has an interesting back story - as I'm sure most readers here know. Early tires went from the white-pink of natural rubber to white-white when zinc oxide was added to increase grip. A few years later a company worked out how to remove carbon black from tar, and add it to rubber to extend tire life. Mind you, carbon black was expensive, so only the outer layer of rubber, on the tread of the tire, was given the carbon black. This produced a white tire with a black tread - the 'white wall' tire. The trouble was that after the carbon black had been extracted from the tar they were left with a waxy residue of sorts, and no market for the stuff. What could one do? The answer was obvious. They sold the stuff as a child's toy. The price of carbon black fell as the processes improved, but the toy took off. It fact it did so well the company changed its name to reflect the toy - and Crayola was born. It is still around and is a currently owned by Hallmark cards. Its earnings are undisclosed because it is not a public company. In the meantime the look of the 'white wall' had become popular, so white rubber inserts were put into black tires to mimic the look of carbon black on just the tread. During the Korean war no white walls were made. The inserts used a lot of natural rubber which was deemed a war material, limiting its civilian use. Finally, the most exotic white walls that I can find were built in the '20s by the Vogue Tire Company. Thank again everyone, much appreciated.
  4. What sort of tires would you recommend for a Stutz M8? Original size, all black, from someone who is currently in business. Attached are two pictures of tires. One photo is of a Stutz wheel. I'm not looking for the neoprene ones on the Ford - but it is such a great shot I had to include it.
  5. Part found - thank to the Stutz Club historian, Mr. Toth. Thanks for checking the thread everyone, Mk.
  6. When the Stutz Vertical 8 cars first came out in 1926 the starter buttons were above and to the left of the accelerator pedal, sort like a 1950s headlight dip switch. Soon after it was moved to the right and above the accelerator pedal, probably to help expand the right-hand drive market. Would anyone have a spare 1929 style engaging shaft that the button pedal was linked to? My car came with the earlier setup, which I shall happily trade, balancing out any difference in weight with extra dollars. Here is the earlier version of the engaging lever. Many thanks for viewing the thread.
  7. The book, The Splendid Stutz will tell you a great deal about the cars. It is for sale through the Club and is well worth the price. The 1927/'28 2 passenger speedster description sort-of covers a few different body types. Some people call the Boattail Speedster just a 'speedster', whereas the catalogue refers to other body types as a 'speedster'. All were built on the short 131 inch chassis, if memory serves me. The chassis length changed in 1929 to 134.5 inches, which did not fit the older bodies. Good luck.
  8. I'll forget about running with George and the Texas boys. More boost, nitrous oxide, trick fuel and soft compound tires would not keep me on the same lap. The car will be wearing its road gear. Just two spare tires and their goosenecks weigh over 150 lbs. By the time the bumpers, lights and other gubbins are added, the car should weigh 4,868 lbs dry. Throw in fuel, oil, and a picnic hamper, and the pace car, piloted by Goofy, would be lapping me.
  9. Where did the carb come from? Same source as the con rods, and thank you again George. 4 to 4.5 lbs., I believe. Thanks for saying the motor looks well. The car ran when I got it, but an inspection showed one con rod was just hand tight, and the generator casing was hollow. The crank was good, thank heavens. The top half of its current inlet manifold came from New Zealand, the bottom half from John (Stutz16 on this site) who had a stand at Hershey. The generator was from a collector about twenty miles from here. John also sorted me out with inlet and exhaust valves, and an internet search provided a gasket set. And then there was the business of turning the ring gear 45˚ on the flywheel, so that fresh teeth met the starter, and finding someone to machine and install valve guides. The usual stuff.
  10. My motor is now finished. It has titanium rods (thank you George). The blower is pretty low pressure, but I don't want to take any risks with old metal. The round chrome thing at the back of the cam cover is a RPM pick-up from the camshaft. The car had a rev counter back in the day. Good luck with your engine rebuild.
  11. Thank you everyone for responding, and thank you even more for the quality of your answers. Hard to beat this site, and the deep knowledge of the contributors. Cheers, Mark
  12. I can't thank you enough, that is just what I needed to learn. Cheers, Mark
  13. PM sent. Cheers, Mark
  14. Thank you! Cheers, Mark
  15. By any chance would anyone know what sort of colors were woven into M8 Stutz wire insulation? What color went where? The wiring diagram is mute on the subject. With age original insulation coverings have now darkened, but they were quite light when first varnished I guess. This is rare trivia indeed, but any nod in the right direction would be much appreciated.
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