castillo49

1941 Cadillac La Salle ? Selling as one package, no parting out. Cash Only No written or verbal warranties. No return. Sold on Bill of Sale. Not a Cadillac guy, so I know very little on car and parts. Can be towed locally for additional cost. Ask questions. $1,500 Frank 909 296-0980 frankjocelyncastillo@gma

Looking for intake manifold for 352 engine for a 58 Ford retractable. Manifold for a "8 cylinder - 4 barrel Interceptor (Thunderbird Special)". I may be able to pick up if not too far. Current Ford has wrong manifold. Frank 1(909) 296-0980

Thank you Ozstatman for the lead. Found exactly what I needed at Steele Rubber. Ordered a pair. Thank you .......

Thanks for the reply. Post 2 pictures. And called Restoration Supply. They don't have any. Saw something online at Auto Zone which may work ... with some creative changes. Going there tomorrow. Frank

Hello Out There, Am looking for "door check straps" for a 1929 "130" Coupe and a 1929 "135" Victoria Brougham. Leads would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Frank In Southern California

Hello Everyone, Can someone tell me brand, make, or part numbers for points and condensers for these 2 engines. 1. Down-draft engines - a 1929 series 130 Coupe and a 1929 series 135 Victoria 2. Side draft engines - 1933 Olympic Coupe & 1933 Olympic Sedan I need to do tune ups and have no extra points or condensers for these engines. Looking for leads to know what I need and where I can go. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you in advance .... Frank In Southern California

Thanks Paul. As always, you are a valuable friend to all of us Franklin guys ..... Frank

Update: Not looking for free help / service. Just need someone or shop that he can trust with the car and the costs to repair. His name is also Frank (909) 229-3481, if you want to talk with him directly .... Frank In Lucerne Valley.

Hi Everyone, Received a call from a Franklin owner in Ontario, Ca. (I forgot to ask how he got my number). He is having problems on his car. So I went to looked at it. It is a very original Series 130 sedan. But the car has not been worked on in years. He said that the car runs good, but has issues. And he knows very little about the car or how to work on it. I gave him a quick lesson on the Franklin. But as I don't have the time or energy to take on this work, I am helping him look for someone in Southern California who can work on it. What the car needs imediately: the clutch and brakes need to be repaired. Then, the engine needs to be looked at. He is willing to send the car somewhere to be fixed. Is there anyone in Southern California who can help this fellow Franklin guy out? Let me know and I will pass your information on to him. Thanks, Frank (909) 296-0980

Mike, I removed washer #2. Tower now fits well with thin gasket ... as it should. Running chassis is now restored and complete ready for the next step, the body. As always, thanks Mike for the advice and information. Frank In California

Hi Everyone, My question is "on mounting a distributor tower to block." Background: 1933 Olympic Coupe - side draft. On mounting the tower back, there is a large gap between the tower base and the block. The gasket I received in a kit is paper thin, not nearly enough to close gap if tighten (see pictures). I also noticed the oil pump shaft has 2 washers. If I remove washer #2, tower sits better. But was the washer put there for a reason awhile back. Without the second washer, gears meet more in middle. But why was it there in first place. Also, it seems different than the first, floating brass washer. What is the "set-up" for the oil pump shaft into block ... 1 washer or 2. And does the "distributor tower to block" require a thick gasket? Any diagrams on the correct set-up or pictures would be greatly appreciated. As always, Thanks Frank In California

Hi Mike, Frank out in California. I would be interested in a pair of oak locks for my 29 Coupe. I have a pair of tire holders that fit into the fenders. Just need the locks. Sent along picture of tire holder. Let me know if available and how much to send with shipping. Thanks, Frank

Thank you "Franklin Family" for all the views, and specially the comments given on this site. And thank you to those that have reached out to me on my email account, specially Paul. Your very lengthly email on our situation was really great and eye opening. Jocelyn and I have learned allot and been pointed to several new directions. We are still in the research mode and figuring out which way to go on this Coupe's roof. As suggested, the roof has been carefully removed and saved as patterns. And the roof's wood has been repaired for some minor stuff. As we have several Franklins and Rickenbackers waiting to have roofs replaced, so we continue as to what we can do on our budget ..... To all, thank you again, Frank

Hi, Looking for additional information / research on "putting a top on a 29 "130" Coupe. This coupe does not have a flat top where one piece of material can be installed without having to worry about curves and round corners. I have read the "instruction" at the club site. But they are for "one piece of material installed on a somewhat flat roof area." Jocelyn & I have figured out the material and how to install the cotton and burlap. The roof bows and wood are in great shape, as is the chicken wire. And we have an idea of what needs to be done with the roof material. We believe there are 4 pieces/patterns of the roof material that need to be installed to get around the curves and corners of the roof where it goes down. Just want alittle more information/research on how to attach the pieces together, specially by the rumble seat area. Jocelyn and I believe we can do this roof job once we get past these problems of getting around the curves/corners and attaching the 4 pieces together. Also, a good source for "dip channels and trim" would be helpful. You can see the dip channel in one of the pictures. Any help on videos or where to continue our research would be greatly appreciated. Some pictures are enclosed. Thanks in advance .... Frank

Thanks guys for the information. I am exploring the "heater problem" further with a visit to several machine shops. Going to see if the holes/breaks can be repaired. Will keep you posted. Frank

Hello Everyone, I am rebuilding the engine in my 33 Olympic. The engine is out and on stands. So far, I have encounter only 2 issues [sure more to come]. Any feedback would be appreciated. 1. Gasoline heater. The gasoline heater that connects the intake & exhaust manifolds has a hole in the tube that is inside the heater. The other heater has the same problem ... holes and cracks. The tubes seems to be pressed into the heaters and made of brass. Am I right? Can these tubes be pressed out and new ones be installed by a good machine shop? Or are there things I should know? Picture Enclosed of gasoline heaters. 2. Air Fan. The nut holding the fan wheel on the crank seems to be tighen by someone pounding it on with a screw driver sometime in the past. It is tight, damaged and will not move. Is this nut tighen clockwise or counter clockwise. Do I need to cut this nut off without damaging the threads on the crank? I need to get this whole assembly off and over to Paul. Any advise would be welcome. Thank you in advance ..... Frank In California

Wanted For Project - 1932 Ford Pick Up Truck. Just love the body style of that year. Rough or incomplete ok. Send pictures, price, and where you are. Frank In California frankjocelyncastillo@gmail.com (909) 296-0980

Thank you. I will send the money as soon as I have your address. Thanks again. Frank Frank Castillo 6110 Crystal Lane, Lucerne Valley, Ca. 92356

Hi, I would be interested in the magazines. Just let me know how to send you the $15.05 USPS cost.. My name is Frank Castillo. 6110 Crystal Lane, Lucerne Valley, Ca. 92356. (909) 296-0980. Thanks

Does anyone know a good source to restore "dash gauges?" I am restoring a 1933 Franklin Olympic Coupe - 18A. Need all gauges restored as to working and faces repainted. Specially need gas gauge repaired and fuel tank pickup unit repair or replaced. Also looking for a good, reliable upholstery shop - one that deals in antique cars. Have had bad luck so far here in Soc Cal. Coupe is currently torn down to frame. Am repairing and putting back together now. I am in Southern California, but looking nationwide. Any leads I can check would be greating appreciated. Frank (909) 296-0980 frankjocelyncastillo@gmail.com

1940 Cadillac La Salle offered at $2,000. Great starting restoration project. Mostly complete. Large V-8 engine with standard trans. Lots of extra engine parts. Manual trans on column. Hood side panels that go between hood and fenders are there. Extra steering column. Lots of "la salle body trim with la salle stamped." I did notice that the radiator and front bumper are missing. And all instruments in dash are missing, though there are 2 "glove doors" for dash. All glass there for patterns.Ask questions. Car sold as is where is with no written or verbal warrenties of any kind. Sold on a bill of sale. Cash only, but will consider partial/trade for Franklin or Rickenbacker car/parts.I came accross this car by accident. And as I have several Franklins & Rickenbacker cars waiting to be restored, I am putting up this La Salle for sale. No low ballers. I am in no need to sell. Just offering the car as I hate it sitting there. And I really am not a Cadillac guy. Car is in Southern California.Frank 1(909) 296-0980

Thank you ... And to everyone who have replied. I am still searching .........

Looking for a machine shop in the L A / Southern California area to do some engine work. I am tearing down a 1933 Franklin side draft engine. And would like the block (crank & cam) work done. I believe I can do the rest myself. Can travel as far south as San Diego to take the work. Maybe travel to the nearby states if shop is good. Any leads would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Frank (909) 296-0980 frankjocelyncastillo@gmail.com

Thanks ....

Good Morning, I would be interested in the first one, the bird. I need one for my 33 Olympic. What do you want for it? You can call me at (909) 296-0980. Thanks, Frank