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Everything posted by castillo49

  1. Mike, I removed washer #2. Tower now fits well with thin gasket ... as it should. Running chassis is now restored and complete ready for the next step, the body. As always, thanks Mike for the advice and information. Frank In California
  2. Hi Everyone, My question is "on mounting a distributor tower to block." Background: 1933 Olympic Coupe - side draft. On mounting the tower back, there is a large gap between the tower base and the block. The gasket I received in a kit is paper thin, not nearly enough to close gap if tighten (see pictures). I also noticed the oil pump shaft has 2 washers. If I remove washer #2, tower sits better. But was the washer put there for a reason awhile back. Without the second washer, gears meet more in middle. But why was it there in first place. Also, it seems different than the first, floating brass washer. What is the "set-up" for the oil pump shaft into block ... 1 washer or 2. And does the "distributor tower to block" require a thick gasket? Any diagrams on the correct set-up or pictures would be greatly appreciated. As always, Thanks Frank In California
  3. Hi Mike, Frank out in California. I would be interested in a pair of oak locks for my 29 Coupe. I have a pair of tire holders that fit into the fenders. Just need the locks. Sent along picture of tire holder. Let me know if available and how much to send with shipping. Thanks, Frank
  4. Thank you "Franklin Family" for all the views, and specially the comments given on this site. And thank you to those that have reached out to me on my email account, specially Paul. Your very lengthly email on our situation was really great and eye opening. Jocelyn and I have learned allot and been pointed to several new directions. We are still in the research mode and figuring out which way to go on this Coupe's roof. As suggested, the roof has been carefully removed and saved as patterns. And the roof's wood has been repaired for some minor stuff. As we have several Franklins and Rickenbackers waiting to have roofs replaced, so we continue as to what we can do on our budget ..... To all, thank you again, Frank
  5. Hi, Looking for additional information / research on "putting a top on a 29 "130" Coupe. This coupe does not have a flat top where one piece of material can be installed without having to worry about curves and round corners. I have read the "instruction" at the club site. But they are for "one piece of material installed on a somewhat flat roof area." Jocelyn & I have figured out the material and how to install the cotton and burlap. The roof bows and wood are in great shape, as is the chicken wire. And we have an idea of what needs to be done with the roof material. We believe there are 4 pieces/patterns of the roof material that need to be installed to get around the curves and corners of the roof where it goes down. Just want alittle more information/research on how to attach the pieces together, specially by the rumble seat area. Jocelyn and I believe we can do this roof job once we get past these problems of getting around the curves/corners and attaching the 4 pieces together. Also, a good source for "dip channels and trim" would be helpful. You can see the dip channel in one of the pictures. Any help on videos or where to continue our research would be greatly appreciated. Some pictures are enclosed. Thanks in advance .... Frank
  6. Thanks guys for the information. I am exploring the "heater problem" further with a visit to several machine shops. Going to see if the holes/breaks can be repaired. Will keep you posted. Frank
  7. Hello Everyone, I am rebuilding the engine in my 33 Olympic. The engine is out and on stands. So far, I have encounter only 2 issues [sure more to come]. Any feedback would be appreciated. 1. Gasoline heater. The gasoline heater that connects the intake & exhaust manifolds has a hole in the tube that is inside the heater. The other heater has the same problem ... holes and cracks. The tubes seems to be pressed into the heaters and made of brass. Am I right? Can these tubes be pressed out and new ones be installed by a good machine shop? Or are there things I should know? Picture Enclosed of gasoline heaters. 2. Air Fan. The nut holding the fan wheel on the crank seems to be tighen by someone pounding it on with a screw driver sometime in the past. It is tight, damaged and will not move. Is this nut tighen clockwise or counter clockwise. Do I need to cut this nut off without damaging the threads on the crank? I need to get this whole assembly off and over to Paul. Any advise would be welcome. Thank you in advance ..... Frank In California
  8. Wanted For Project - 1932 Ford Pick Up Truck. Just love the body style of that year. Rough or incomplete ok. Send pictures, price, and where you are. Frank In California frankjocelyncastillo@gmail.com (909) 296-0980
  9. Thank you. I will send the money as soon as I have your address. Thanks again. Frank Frank Castillo 6110 Crystal Lane, Lucerne Valley, Ca. 92356
  10. Hi, I would be interested in the magazines. Just let me know how to send you the $15.05 USPS cost.. My name is Frank Castillo. 6110 Crystal Lane, Lucerne Valley, Ca. 92356. (909) 296-0980. Thanks
  11. Does anyone know a good source to restore "dash gauges?" I am restoring a 1933 Franklin Olympic Coupe - 18A. Need all gauges restored as to working and faces repainted. Specially need gas gauge repaired and fuel tank pickup unit repair or replaced. Also looking for a good, reliable upholstery shop - one that deals in antique cars. Have had bad luck so far here in Soc Cal. Coupe is currently torn down to frame. Am repairing and putting back together now. I am in Southern California, but looking nationwide. Any leads I can check would be greating appreciated. Frank (909) 296-0980 frankjocelyncastillo@gmail.com
  12. 1940 Cadillac La Salle offered at $2,000. Great starting restoration project. Mostly complete. Large V-8 engine with standard trans. Lots of extra engine parts. Manual trans on column. Hood side panels that go between hood and fenders are there. Extra steering column. Lots of "la salle body trim with la salle stamped." I did notice that the radiator and front bumper are missing. And all instruments in dash are missing, though there are 2 "glove doors" for dash. All glass there for patterns.Ask questions. Car sold as is where is with no written or verbal warrenties of any kind. Sold on a bill of sale. Cash only, but will consider partial/trade for Franklin or Rickenbacker car/parts.I came accross this car by accident. And as I have several Franklins & Rickenbacker cars waiting to be restored, I am putting up this La Salle for sale. No low ballers. I am in no need to sell. Just offering the car as I hate it sitting there. And I really am not a Cadillac guy. Car is in Southern California.Frank 1(909) 296-0980
  13. Thank you ... And to everyone who have replied. I am still searching .........
  14. Looking for a machine shop in the L A / Southern California area to do some engine work. I am tearing down a 1933 Franklin side draft engine. And would like the block (crank & cam) work done. I believe I can do the rest myself. Can travel as far south as San Diego to take the work. Maybe travel to the nearby states if shop is good. Any leads would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Frank (909) 296-0980 frankjocelyncastillo@gmail.com
  15. Good Morning, I would be interested in the first one, the bird. I need one for my 33 Olympic. What do you want for it? You can call me at (909) 296-0980. Thanks, Frank
  16. Hummmm. I brought a 1933 Franklin Olympic Coupe for $9,000 in Florida, shipped the car to Southern Cal. (open carrier) for $1,100., and am enjoying running it around over Southern Ca. Great, unrestored, very decent running good looking coupe with side mounts ... all original. Just needed new tires (tires were cracked from sitting) and the usual stuff to get a 20 year sitting car back on the road. In our immediate family, we have a 29 Pierce Limo, a 24 Chrysler Roadster, several Franklins and Rickenbackers, and the general 60s Ford and Chevy cars .... all drivers. We do our homework and not afraid to look anywhere in USA. If not local, we use a carrier. It is always better and more fun to buy an unrestored, running, original car to enjoying as you restore. Stuff is still out there. Just do your homework ....
  17. Not sure. Been talking with a guy who is doing handles for the Packard & Pierce Club. He is having some success making a few handles for them. I am meetinbg with him this weekend. Hopefully the cost will be ok to good if we can get enough people interested to buy. I will check out quality and condition of the ones he has made and go from there. Will keep you posted.....
  18. I am also looking for handles for a 33 Olympic sedan and a 33 Olympic coupe. And I too tried Jeff. Am thinking of getting some made through 3 D printing. Any thoughts on the subject. Frank out in California.
  19. Mine came on Tuesday 5/28 to zip 92356. The High Desert in California. Thanks ...
  20. Mike, Check out the "Rickenbacker Automobile Club of America" for information. www.rickenbackermotors.org Person there to email or call is Roland Klix - (425) 228-6376 605_rklix@comcast.net The club has members with their cars all across the country. And we have plenty of information on Eddie Rickenbacker and his car company. Frank
  21. Selling mostly complete Franklin engine out of my inventory. Apart. Engine came with other parts I brought years ago. Engine parts are: 1. Complete block with crank, cam, & fly wheel installed. Piston journals still wrap as when block return from machine shop. Block # 35-157446 2. Oil pan, rebuilt oil pump, and oil pump tubes/lines included. 3. Both intake & exhaust manifolds included 4. 6 jugs with new heads/rings installed and 6 piston rods included (you will need rod bearings) 5. Rebuilt top valve caps included 6. Fan hood, fan wheel, front u-tube exhaust, & bottom air hood assembly included/no top air hood 7. Rebuilt oil top & distributor included 8. You will need a top air hood, gaskets and other parts I can't think of at the moment to have a complete "35" Franklin engine. You will also need a carb, fuel pump, a starter, generator, etc. to complete engine. This is not a complete engine. Again, missing top air hood and other parts I am not aware of at the moment. I was going to assemble a complete engine, but just too many projects. And as my Franklins are complete with extra parts, I decide to thin out my inventory. Questions are welcome. Asking $7,000 for everything. Sold as is where is with no written or verbal warranties given. Delivery possible at cost if paid in full first. Frank (909) 296-0980 / frankjocelyncastillo@gmail.com Lucerne Valley / Southern California
  22. I am cleaning out garage. Have a pair of heads and gaskets to go. They were brought as "back up parts" for our 24 Chrysler roadster. Have too many "back up parts." One head is in great shape. Second was told had a hairline crack, though I didn't see it. 1 new head gasket still in package. Others are used. Sold as is where is with no written or verbal warranties. $500 / offer for lot plus shipping through UPS. Frank (909) 296-0980. frankjocelyncastillo@gmail.com PS: Always looking for Franklin or Rickenbacker cars or parts.
  23. Thanks for asking the owner. Can you send year, model, numbers, and a picture if possible. We are always looking and recording information on existing cars out there. And having him as a member would be great. New membership is always welcome. Frank www.rickenbackermotors.org
  24. Rickenbacker Automobile Club of America is alive & running. Mission Statement: The Rickenbacker Automobile Club of America & it's Web Site is dedicated to the people interested in Rickenbacker Automobiles, which were manufactured from 1922 to 1927 by the Rickenbacker Motor Company (RMC). Our aim is to generate interest in this unique marque, and distribute information and tips helpful in the restoration and operation of these cars. Hopefully, more of these cars can be rediscovered and become operable again. Come visit us at: www.rickenbackermotors.org Further information on these cars or joining us can be reached by contacting Frank Castillo, Membership Services (909) 296-0980 - frankjocelyncastillo@gmail.com
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