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Locowrench

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About Locowrench

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    '39 Buick Team Member
  • Birthday 09/13/1953
  1. Got the engine stripped. A bit of trouble with a couple of pistons due to rust. Cam is frozen in the bearings and the lifters are not cooperating either. Will send it off to the machine shop to remove cam and bore cylinders. I am at the point where I need a lot of parts. The crank is in excellent condition and the Main bearings also look good. The rod babbiting also looks good at the crank end. They rods are very hard to move at the piston pin end. At this point I am thinking of purchasing an engine rebuild kit from Kanters and just doing the entire thing right as they say. I definitely need a
  2. A friend of mine had good experience with an outfit in Baltimore when he needed his generator rebuilt. I believe they did it for $40. I will check to see if they work on distributors since I am going to have them look at my generator and starter. Might as well get my distributor checked as well if they do. Guy Weigand 1939 Special
  3. I am getting ready to pull the engine in my 39 Special. I have been reading the 38, 39 supplement. Also the 42 Manual because I was told there was more detail in it. I am planning on pulling the engine and trans together. I am a bit confused as to whether I have to pull the rear end back first to disconnect the torque tube or if I can just take out the four bolts that connect the torque tube to the trans and then pull the engine and trans out leaving the torque tube in place. I can't quite get my head wrapped around this torque tube setup and why it is used. Is it sturdy or is it prone to dama
  4. From one Newbie to another, Welcome. These people have been more than generous with their advice on my 39 Special and believe me, I need a LOT of advice. I am a little bit behind you unfortunately in getting it on the road. You just answered a question that I was going to ask, 39_Buick. I was wondering why I could not find an oil filter in any of the parts boxes! Guy W. Silver Spring, MD
  5. Even if the bottom end is in decent shape I will definitely have to bore the cylinders. #8 has got deep corrosion on the walls. I also suspect something else is up since I had three bent push rods and a few stuck valves. One looks like it is bent. Has anyone used a standard type engine stand for these long monsters? Just looking at the length I am wondering about the weight overhang. I am looking at the #2000 Harbor freight engine stand. Guy
  6. No indication of cracks in the block and the freeze plugs are still in. Must have had a lot of room in the crank to expand. So I cleaned up the interior a little. Vacuuming and wipe down. Came out pretty good for what I think may possibly be the original interior. Any suggestions for taking out the water stains on the door panels? One stain on the front seat after 75 years. My dog decided he wanted to take a ride and jumped in with muddy feet. Doh!
  7. Thanks for the encouragement. Going to have to make a lifting jig to get that monster out. I drained three and a half GALLONS of clean water out of the oil pan and then came two quarts of sludge. I could not believe that much water came out of that engine. Had to dump my waste oil pan three times. I doubt the bottom end looks any better but I am trying to be optimistic about it! Guy W.
  8. Started to tear in to my locked up engine and found some bent push rods, stuck valves and one very rusted cylinder. Too bad, the other 7 where in fairly good condition. Well, nothing left to do but pull the engine and inspect the bottom end. Is it easier to pull the engine and trans or just the engine. I know there are alignment issues with this drive train and I have not really gotten up to speed with the whole torque tube thing. Awaiting the 1938 manual. Have the 39 Supplement but not much in it. Hey, 39_Buick, is that 1942 Manual that you mentioned the Buick issued one?
  9. I am new to this forum and work mostly on motorcycles. Popping through the carburetor is an indication of a lean condition on motorcycles an is usually caused by intake leaks. Very common on bikes. We trace it by spraying almost any liquid around anywhere a leak could occur and listening for changes in idle speed. Carb bases, intake manifold mating surfaces, vacuum lines... I use carb cleaner mostly because it is usually handy and with a red hose on it you can get pretty directional. Don't use the carb cleaner around painted surfaces. An unlit propane torch will work also and so will starting
  10. The 39 is now sitting in my driveway waiting for space to move into the garage. Lots of extra parts came with it including three extra front fenders, two with the spare tire cutout and two spare tire covers. The covers are not in very good shape. Wondering if the PO was going to install them. Personally, I think it gets too busy looking with the spares on the fenders. Love the simplicity of this style. Also have what looks to be a complete set of extra trim for the Special. Would have missed them but the owners son pointed them out to me stored up in the rafters! That was lucky. What is not s
  11. So I pick up the 39 tomorrow. It is only about 1 mile from where I live. Looks like the engine is toast. Left out in the rain with the valve cover removed. Ouch! How hard is it to get engine parts for the old L8's. I figure it is the smaller of the 8's since it is a Special. Am I correct in that assumption? Is there a supplier of parts (weatherstripping, lights, bearings, pistons etc...) for these vehicles? Guy W.
  12. If all goes well this week I will join the '39 Buick Team. Trying to buy a 1939 Model 41 with a #700 interior and Paint #532. It was owned by a former AACA member who passed away years ago and has sat partially exposed to the elements on and off. I found his 1971 AACA Membership card in the glove box so I guess he owned it for quite awhile. Anyway, wish me luck. Hope the estate doesn't want too much for it. It is not in very good condition at the moment. Guy W.
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